Explain auxilary battery purpose to me

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

That is an easy fix. Make sure the truck has a fused power lead to the 7 way trailer connector. Then on the trailer make sure there is a lead from the coresponding connector to the battery. Most RVs are wired this way but the trucks tend not to have the power lead. Some trucks are wired up but missing the fuse unless you have the trailering option on newer vehicles.

And when dry camping I would always unplug the 7 pin just for good measure. You can camp comfortably for a weekend using two deep cycles on a travel trailer, since the fridge runs on propane.


j

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

This is how I did my 72. Then on the winch lead I added a set of those quick connects that tow trucks use for there jumper cables. I want to use the winch I just plug it in. No chance of it draining the battery. I also have no issues running a 12k badlands winch (doubled up) for a good amount of time with the truck off. When the winch starts to slow down and strain from the voltage going down I just start the truck. During winching I lock the truck down in low range and first gear and hook a logging chain to the rear hitch and an anchor point. The factory parking brake doesnt do alot for a manual transmission in neutral. It sucks when you are pulling a tree out of the woods and the truck starts to go to it or towards the bank!

This winch I have now is the first one I have ever put a cutoff switch on. I put it on in case the thing decides it doesn't want to stop winding, not so much for battery drain. I don't think I could for the life of me yank one of those cables to cut power if needed. Last couple winches I had were hydraulic. I put a Moroso 300amp continuous/2000 amp intermittent battery switch between the battery pos and the solenoid. I like it!







j

[volksworld]

the ford solenoid will not work(it will for a while...) as it is not designed as a continuous duty solenoid....the confusing part is that there are continuous duty solenoids that look just like a ford solenoid, so people replace them with ford solenoids and the fun begins....

[Andy4639]

jeffahart,
thanks, yes I have built many carts using these type contactors, and they get the job done. I have never had one to fail me yet in over 20 years of modifying carts. They are continuous contactors and you can buy them for any voltage you need.

If you want it to be factory correct then you don't have much choice as to what you can use for the parts but if you want it to just work right and last for a long time. Then use the right kind of parts for the job. As far as those Ford solenoids go have you looked at their amp rating?

The short of it is that it takes 8-10 amps to hold the solenoid in place while starting your motor the draw can spike to 30 amps while it is engaging the car starter.
A winch will over load these as soon as it starts winding. 100 amps and higher if the winch has any kind of load on it.

http://www.smittybiltdepot.com/aux_i...7.pdf&line=S/B