Oil filter bypass

[toolboxchev]

Looking at my next build, did some research on HV Melling oil pumps. Everyone says they are not necessary for a mild to mid engine build.

Notices also due to the priority oiling that the filter adapter has a bypass in it also. Anyone know the average pressure in a stock motor these would open up at? Is it spring operated? Can you get different spring rates, or pressure opening pressures?

Any insights into doing a build and taken care of the oiling system would be helpful.

One thing noted was a oil cooler added to a small block. I pulled one off a 88 TBI block a while back. Still shows in GM parts catalogues. Durability with the added power is what I am truly after.

[Getter-Done]

This video may be helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo










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[burnin oil]

Its your motor but I would go HV and you can put a lower pressure spring in if you like. SBC have a good factory oiling system but if it ever looses oil flow you know what happens. Many racers will run a standard pump and hit "0" psi at the end of the track. This works since these motors are usually refreshed at the end of the season. With the HV you would still have oil pressure as long ad there is oil in the pan. A good thing to do is make sure that the oil returns in the head are large and open. Sbc tend to pump a lot of oil up top. Even with a standard pump I would look for a good oil pan that controls oil slosh and possibly add capacity if you are going to be accelerating hard or hard cornering. It may not be necessary but it's good insurance on an investment of an engine. That said a stock engine in a pickup will hold up just fine if not abused.

My 400sb had been beat hard and routinely spun up around 8k rpm for 5 years now and was a daily driver for 3 of those. It is basically a dirt track engine. Cruise of 3k rpm+ is normal. I run a solid cam with oil holes in the lifters for the cam lobes. My oil of choice is 15w40 diesel oil in a large capacity pan. My oil pressure is finally dropping a little to 45 cold and just under 20 hot at idle. Maybe next year it will get the bearings checked. This is my experience and I hope it helps.

[Richard2112]

I don't believe there is any need for a high pressure pump in these motors. I was reading in a forum that a person had burned their rocker arms blue and couldn't determine the cause. Turned out the high pressure pump squirted oil through the push rod and over the rockers at higher rpms, costing him a set of rockers. At least his valve covers were getting oil.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Richard2112

I don't believe there is any need for a high pressure pump in these motors. I was reading in a forum that a person had burned their rocker arms blue and couldn't determine the cause. Turned out the high pressure pump squirted oil through the push rod and over the rockers at higher rpms, costing him a set of rockers. At least his valve covers were getting oil.

Lubed valve covers, I am chucklin good this morning. I appreciate the info on the Lower parts of the system. I have noticed during a hard stop my engine will hesitate. Those are definitely some key pointers there.

[truckster]

I've built a lot of engines and never went with anything other than quality standard pumps.

I'm not building race motors, but I've built everything from economy 4-bangers to 455 Olds V8s with tons of grunt, and none of them has ever suffered from a lack of oiling.

[Richard2112]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

Lubed valve covers, I am chucklin good this morning. I appreciate the info on the Lower parts of the system. I have noticed during a hard stop my engine will hesitate. Those are definitely some key pointers there.

yeah, I'm not sure how important it is but if one like their valve covers lubed, high pressure oil pump is the wat to go.

[burnin oil]

I will take that any day over some that I have seen that just barely let oil out of the pushrod. Think about this though. How does that oil get to the trunion? Splashing off the cover wouldn't be bad. I run roller rockers with no issues.

[sweetk30]

lots of guys bypass the filter adapter springy thing with a tap and pipe plug or aftermarket adapter . but you MUST run a good quality filter like a wix race or k&n or other made for high pressure . as the filter can see crazy pressure when cold fired and thick oil .

next i also would skip a high vol oil pump as they are more a band aid i have read and been told buy a few engine builders over the years .

oil control to the pan and held at the pump is more a key point to focus on in my opinion . with a bare block do some free labor and use some carbide bits and de-bur the block and open all the drain holes up from casting flashing . polish the drain runs and ports up nice and smooth . also work the block and rear main cap for oil flow out of the oil pump . lots of guys find huge flow restrictions in this spot .

next get the oil away from the crank and then hold it in a good pan with good baffles and this will all keep the most un-used oil down were the pump needs it .

engine masters show just did a shoot out on the dyno of oil flow / capacity / pan style / crank scraper and the results were use for tons of cheep labor and or super cheep parts like a crank scraper install .

[toolboxchev]

Like the idea of a High Volume pump and putting in a different spring in it to keep pressures normal. If I have a loose setup in all the mains.

The lifter valley area of course would be addressed, I would like to have a volume of oil up there under extreme conditions, also looked at the Oil Accumulator talk about preventing dry starts. Pics of that setup would be nice if anyone has a good setup.