65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[mongocanfly]

That sucks... but wow....that's some thin metal..!!

[jaros44sr]

Victor I was wondering if I could get some advice from you

You mentioned you were going to use panel bond, I've never used it before and was wondering how much set up time you have before the panel bond goes off

Great work so far, and enjoy your write up

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

That sucks... but wow....that's some thin metal..!!

Yeah, if you hold it up to the light, you can almost see thru it.

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Victor I was wondering if I could get some advice from you

You mentioned you were going to use panel bond, I've never used it before and was wondering how much set up time you have before the panel bond goes off

Great work so far, and enjoy your write up

Thanks! 3M makes a couple of versions, 08115 and 08116. I'm guessing there are other adhesive products on the market but those are the only two I've used. Working time differs slightly, although both are ambient temp sensitive. At 70 degrees you have about 1.5-2 hours to reposition panels. If your shop temp is hotter the time goes down. At 100 degrees, you have about an hour at most. The main difference between the two versions is related to manufacturer specifications. For me, that's not an issue so I usually get the 08115. They also have different part numbers depending on the applicator style. An applicator can be pricey, but most paint supply houses will rent you one or let you use it free with a deposit.

You typically only get one mixing tube, but you can buy extras on eBay or elsewhere. I remove a used mixing tube, throw it away and clean the area where it attaches. I then replace the shipping cap when I've only used a partial amount. If you're careful to keep the epoxy and the catalyst from coming in contact with each other, it will last a long time on the shelf. I've been able to use the same dispenser several times until I use all or most of the material.

One other thing about the stuff is that as long as it hasn't set up, you can use a spot welder to add mechanical joints. I don't typically do this but it's nice to know you can if you want.

[jaros44sr]

Victor great info just what I needed, it was the cost of the applicater that threw me off, but I will check with my supplier

Should give me enough time to get it buttoned up

Thanks for your time to explain that

Sorry to hear about that side panel not lining up

This is what I did so far and did you use lacker thinner for cleanup does it come off your hands, does it smell strong

17115430442306797632180518517808 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

This is what I did so far and did you use lacquer thinner for cleanup does it come off your hands, does it smell strong

I use lacquer thinner for cleanup and if you get adhesive on your hands, thinner will work to remove it. I confess that I usually use nitrile gloves when dealing with any kind of pookie. That way, I can use my finger to smooth out a bead and/or remove excess material then peel the gloves off and trash them. The adhesive has a bit of odor but it's not so bad that you need a fan running with the doors open.

[jaros44sr]

Thanks for all your help I'm going to go for it

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks for all your help I'm going to go for it

Here's hoping it goes perfectly for you! I know the first time I used it; I was nervous as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs. From what I've seen, if you have the patch exactly where you want it and have all the clamps and tools handy, it goes well. I put a roof skin on a 68 C10 using it and it worked great.

I split the inner PS wheelwell and started the process if widening it. I plan to use stainless rivets and panel adhesive to join the halves together. Probably do the same with the inner and outer wheelhouses - maybe even the wheel arch. That's still a little ways off.