The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-28-2024, 07:55 PM   #1
gordyzx9r
Junior Member
 
gordyzx9r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Alabama
Posts: 75
Back from paint and body...need some advice

We got our 1970 C10 back from body and paint. Came out nice, but wound up costing double what the original estimate was due to there being a lot more rot than we thought there would be...a lot of metal work, a lot. But, it looks good. I can't remember the paint name, but it's close to a caramel candy apple red...with black interior

Now to put it all back together, I need some advice and help.

It's not an original truck...not even close. And we use it like a truck, it's not meant to be a show truck. And we're keeping it low thrills, not many bells and whistles.

It's a 1970 2WD C10 but it's got an 8' bed from a '72 I think (it has the passenger side cargo compartment in the side of the bed). The 350 that's in it...is from god knows what/where but it runs good and we rebuilt it a few years ago. And it's a 4-speed manual, though with the way it's geared I don't think I've ever used 1st.

We got all new heater/defrost components...from the radiator hoses to the ducts, all of it was replaced. We have heat and defrost again!

Windows were all taken out and we had all new seals put in. But we decided not to put the chrome window trim back on, it looks better without it.

We had all the body side molding holes filled in to smooth out the sides.

Eliminated the antenna hole and filled that in.

Moved the gas tank to the rear frame and filled in the gas tank hole on the cab and the one that was on the bed for the external tank(s).

What I need advice/recommendations with:

Bumpers? I was just gonna get the premium chrome front and back from LMC that look like simple stock bumpers. The bumpers I had on it were trashed.

Grill. Again, planning on going with the chrome grill from LMC with the silver insert.

All new lenses for the lights from LMC.

Is the stuff from LMC good quality? Fitment issues?

We also need to put in a new carpet. There is a company called USA1 that has carpets specifically for cabs with no fuel tank that run to the wall. Does anyone have any other recommendations for that?

How do you differentiate between a low transmission hump and a high hump? It's one of the questions some sites ask when choosing the carpet.

Door panels. I don't like the original ones that have the Western stitch theme to them...is there something basic and simple out there we can use for door panels?

What do the screws look like for the compartment door hinges? The screws that attach the hinges to the door itself and the screws that attach the hinges to the truck...I need those. I hope they're not something crazy to find like the hinges were.
__________________
gordyzx9r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2024, 08:30 PM   #2
bnorth
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Salmon Arm BC
Posts: 137
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

I like stock bumpers, rear sport bumper looks good.
High hump floor bolts in. Since you have a 4 spd it is likely high hump as they were from the factory though you mention a lot has been changed on yours.
Auto custom carpet (ACC) also does a carpet for no fuel tank. It is usually well priced from Rock Auto
__________________
1970 C10 l/b 292/4spd
Build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=811062
bnorth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2024, 08:33 PM   #3
Steeveedee
Who Changed This?
 
Steeveedee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 10,092
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

I'll only comment about a grill from LMC, because that's what I bought. Any more parts like that, I will pick up locally, as the thing had dings in it. I didn't bother with a return request, because the truck is 50+ years old, and it'll get dinged again, anyway. It's not a show truck. Still, dropping all that money and having dings in a new part is not a desired outcome.
__________________
~Steven

'70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper

Simi Valley, CA
Steeveedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2024, 08:33 PM   #4
Getter-Done
Senior Member
 
Getter-Done's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TN.
Posts: 7,726
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

I would try to find the bumpers at Swap Meets.

Personally, I will not Buy Anything from LMC. (Period)


There is a Swap meet this weekend at the Lebanon TN fairgrounds.
__________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________
84 Chevy K-20
63 Impala (my high school car)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...Crew Cab Build
Getter-Done is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2024, 08:46 PM   #5
54blackhornet
Registered User
 
54blackhornet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Eastern Oregon
Posts: 2,258
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

I second the previous comment about bumpers. LMC is ripe with low quality products.
__________________
71 C-20
07 Magnum RT AWD
54blackhornet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2024, 09:25 PM   #6
HO455
Post Whore
 
HO455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 10,807
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

The best part of LMC is the catalog.
I like AAC carpet. Step up for the mass backing version.
The majority of repop bumpers are made of thinner metal than the OE bumpers. Depending on your trucks color you might consider a set of painted bumpers. They can often be found for cheap.
Install all the underdash electrical components before installing the harness.
I'm unsure as to which screws you mean by "Compartment door hinges"?
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
HO455 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2024, 09:35 PM   #7
LS short box
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Carlos MN
Posts: 1,924
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

I bought most of my 68 parts from Summit. Bumpers front and sport rear. They fit well.
Carpet wise same from Summit made by ACC. I used the high hump carpet kit. Behind the seats I used trunk liner black fabric material. Buy it in bulk at the local fabric shop.
Pic of the high hump.
Attached Images
 
LS short box is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2024, 09:45 PM   #8
adf5565
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Tioga Pennsylvania
Posts: 23
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

I have the rear step bumper on my 72 from LMC. I was satisfied with the quality, good chrome and is fairly heavy duty.
adf5565 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2024, 02:47 PM   #9
gordyzx9r
Junior Member
 
gordyzx9r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Alabama
Posts: 75
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by HO455 View Post
The best part of LMC is the catalog.
I like AAC carpet. Step up for the mass backing version.
The majority of repop bumpers are made of thinner metal than the OE bumpers. Depending on your trucks color you might consider a set of painted bumpers. They can often be found for cheap.
Install all the underdash electrical components before installing the harness.
I'm unsure as to which screws you mean by "Compartment door hinges"?
I have a cargo door on my bed, it's located on the lower passenger side near the cab.

I had to have the door refurbished and when they took it off, they did not keep the mounting hardware and they trashed my hinges thinking they could replace them/fab them easily...the couldn't, lol. I was able to source the hinges, but I don't have any books that show what size/length/head those screws are for it.
__________________
gordyzx9r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2024, 05:05 PM   #10
HO455
Post Whore
 
HO455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 10,807
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

Ah the tool box! I'm afraid I can't help with that as they didn't come on Burbans. (As far a I know anyway as I've never seen one)

If no one chimes in try posting a separate thread about tool box mounting screws. I believe they are commonly rusted solid and get drilled out so it shouldn't be a problem to find them.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
HO455 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2024, 11:17 PM   #11
71CHEVYSHORTBED402
Senior Member
 
71CHEVYSHORTBED402's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 7,120
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordyzx9r View Post
We got our 1970 C10 back from body and paint. Came out nice, but wound up costing double what the original estimate was due to there being a lot more rot than we thought there would be...a lot of metal work, a lot. But, it looks good. I can't remember the paint name, but it's close to a caramel candy apple red...with black interior

Now to put it all back together, I need some advice and help.

It's not an original truck...not even close. And we use it like a truck, it's not meant to be a show truck. And we're keeping it low thrills, not many bells and whistles.

It's a 1970 2WD C10 but it's got an 8' bed from a '72 I think (it has the passenger side cargo compartment in the side of the bed). The 350 that's in it...is from god knows what/where but it runs good and we rebuilt it a few years ago. And it's a 4-speed manual, though with the way it's geared I don't think I've ever used 1st.

We got all new heater/defrost components...from the radiator hoses to the ducts, all of it was replaced. We have heat and defrost again!

Windows were all taken out and we had all new seals put in. But we decided not to put the chrome window trim back on, it looks better without it.

We had all the body side molding holes filled in to smooth out the sides.

Eliminated the antenna hole and filled that in.

Moved the gas tank to the rear frame and filled in the gas tank hole on the cab and the one that was on the bed for the external tank(s).

What I need advice/recommendations with:

Bumpers? I was just gonna get the premium chrome front and back from LMC that look like simple stock bumpers. The bumpers I had on it were trashed.

Grill. Again, planning on going with the chrome grill from LMC with the silver insert.

All new lenses for the lights from LMC.

Is the stuff from LMC good quality? Fitment issues?

We also need to put in a new carpet. There is a company called USA1 that has carpets specifically for cabs with no fuel tank that run to the wall. Does anyone have any other recommendations for that?

How do you differentiate between a low transmission hump and a high hump? It's one of the questions some sites ask when choosing the carpet.

Door panels. I don't like the original ones that have the Western stitch theme to them...is there something basic and simple out there we can use for door panels?

What do the screws look like for the compartment door hinges? The screws that attach the hinges to the door itself and the screws that attach the hinges to the truck...I need those. I hope they're not something crazy to find like the hinges were.
I can't speak to it due you have no respect for originality The hump's height depends on your drivetrain, perhaps just the transmission. I can only speak for a high hump, 402/400. Seems if in doubt install a high hump, but don't take my word for it, at all. If you haven't got your answer yet, what's your drivetrain?

OC Auto Carpets is Auto Custom Carpets (ACC) preferred retail source, and great service. I've never read a complaint. I think I paid 650ish for their insulated carpet floor, fuel tank cover and a pair of mats, with shipping.

Can't help with bumpers beyond you really need to know your rear bumper bolt pattern on your frame rails. It's probably 5" or 7.1", IMO. Repo. brackets are probably )(&*^)(* and if so, good idea to flatten where they mount the bumper or stand to ruin your new bumper. They have to fit flush on the bumper, and without any distortions from the bumper to the frame rails. Front brackets should be straight forward, short I know a 71-72's inner brackets take an offset washer each, fit between the bumper and brackets. Not sure about a 70 bumper, the assm. manual knows for sure.

Oh yeah, LMC.................Run. Just kidding, sorta. LMC is cool cuz they ID parts nicely. I've found a part they only carry, and yes, some of their parts are as high of quality as anyone else who carries the parts. But most times, there are better vendors for a number of reasons, including better parts.
__________________
Tony
71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring it from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s of OEM identifications and part numbers, all written in short order. 700+ images include assm, illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025

Last edited by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402; 02-29-2024 at 11:27 PM.
71CHEVYSHORTBED402 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2024, 11:22 PM   #12
Getter-Done
Senior Member
 
Getter-Done's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TN.
Posts: 7,726
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordyzx9r View Post
I have a cargo door on my bed, it's located on the lower passenger side near the cab.

I had to have the door refurbished and when they took it off, they did not keep the mounting hardware and they trashed my hinges thinking they could replace them/fab them easily...the couldn't, lol. I was able to source the hinges, but I don't have any books that show what size/length/head those screws are for it.
Here is a Picture of the Screw below.

I have a couple of Boxes stashed away.

I will try to get you a Measurement on these screws.
__________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________
84 Chevy K-20
63 Impala (my high school car)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...Crew Cab Build
Getter-Done is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2024, 11:23 PM   #13
Getter-Done
Senior Member
 
Getter-Done's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TN.
Posts: 7,726
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

Here a Picture of the Screw.

Name:  tbs.jpg
Views: 267
Size:  24.8 KB
__________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________
84 Chevy K-20
63 Impala (my high school car)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...Crew Cab Build
Getter-Done is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2024, 11:37 PM   #14
Steeveedee
Who Changed This?
 
Steeveedee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 10,092
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

So, pan- or round-head Phillips. I guess if he could mike the holes, he could get the size.
__________________
~Steven

'70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper

Simi Valley, CA
Steeveedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2024, 12:19 AM   #15
Getter-Done
Senior Member
 
Getter-Done's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TN.
Posts: 7,726
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

The screw head diameter is 0.365

The washer is 0.441 diameter and 0.042 " thick.

It is looking like a #8 Machine screw.

I have yet to get one out without the head snapping off.

Maybe someone will Chime in with a Thread pitch measurement.
__________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________
84 Chevy K-20
63 Impala (my high school car)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...Crew Cab Build
Getter-Done is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2024, 08:24 AM   #16
Dieselwrencher
6>8 Plugless........
 
Dieselwrencher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
Posts: 17,135
Re: Back from paint and body...need some advice

I have to find where I hid my good screws. Most of the hinges I have removed, the screws snap off. I know I have some that didn't brake. I'll dig around and get some pics today.
__________________
Ryan
1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread
1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4
1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed
1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe
1969 Chevy milk truck
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10
1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project


Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.
Dieselwrencher is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com