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Old 07-23-2003, 12:46 AM   #1
70blazer
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1969 4x4 hub replacement ?

I just bought a 1969 3/4 ton 4x4. I need to replace the hubs on my front axle. They are the original hubs and the truck only has 60,000 original miles on it. They are stiff and one side will just spin around in either direction without stopping. My question is how hard is this job to do myself? Second what is your advice on the brand of hub, and how much do they run?
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Old 07-23-2003, 12:54 AM   #2
Blue_71
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*Warn- $115
Superwinch-$79

i'd go with Warn

http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2....WARHUBS&cat=LH

(*you need war9072)
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1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker
1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB
1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed
1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205
1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10
1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater
1989 Chevy K2500

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Originally Posted by Alan Jackson, Cause I'm a country boy
35s whinin on the asphalt, grabbin mud, throwin up some red dirt
R.I.P. Michael Stilts... I will always love and miss you brother! (9-12-80, murdered 4-9-05)
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Old 07-23-2003, 01:55 AM   #3
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what type of dana 44 front do you have? the open or closed knuckle? if you have the closed knuckle, i'd say just save your cash for a 71 up dana 44 with disc brakes and open knuckles.
if you don't know which type it is, look at the axle on the inside of the wheel (by where the brake drum or disc would be). If it looks like there is a big ball there that the wheel is attached to, its a closed knuckle. If you can see teh ujoint and there is no ball, it is an open knuckle.
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Old 07-23-2003, 03:24 AM   #4
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whats the advantage with closed knuckle or open
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Old 07-23-2003, 03:28 AM   #5
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basically disc brakes, as there were no closed knuckle disc braked GM vehicles that I know of. From what I've gathered, late 69 and all 1970 models had open knuckles and drum brakes, so they are kinda rare. My 69, and older, had closed knuckles and drum brakes. 71 and up had open knuckles and disc brakes. Also open knuckled axles are a tad stronger than closed knuckle equivalents, and have larger ujoints.
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Old 07-23-2003, 03:51 AM   #6
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supposedly open knuckle can turn sharper too
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic
1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker
1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB
1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed
1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205
1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10
1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater
1989 Chevy K2500

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Jackson, Cause I'm a country boy
35s whinin on the asphalt, grabbin mud, throwin up some red dirt
R.I.P. Michael Stilts... I will always love and miss you brother! (9-12-80, murdered 4-9-05)
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:10 AM   #7
70blazer
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That helps a ton, thanks for the info. I had forgotten about how much I want the disc brake conversion anyways. Thanks for the shortcut.

? How much should I expect to pay for a used disc dana? What year axles are swapable?
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Last edited by 70blazer; 07-24-2003 at 01:30 AM.
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Old 07-24-2003, 06:50 AM   #8
JIMs70GMC
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For an 8 lug dana 44 w/ discs shouldn't be more than $250 very plentifull. Look for a 73 and newer for the larger u-joint.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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