1962 3/4 ton 2WD

[LuckyLightning]

After waiting all summer, I was finally able to go pick up this beauty. So much of this truck is still stock, it's refreshing to see that the PO's have not been hacking away at it.

I have no idea if the 26,000 miles on the odometer are original.

I'm having trouble getting it started (engine rotates when I turn the key, and fuel is getting to the carb, but it doesn't seem to be igniting).

Yes, the cab has significant rust, but I can deal with that.

First steps are to get it drivable starting with getting her to fire up, then make sure she brakes. I'll also remove that cage in the back, the toolbox, and the "A" frame hitch on the front bumper, and address the surface rust so my neighbors (and HOA) don't get too pissed at me. After that I'll get the holes patched in the cab, and source some '99-'06 front seats (for the shoulder seatbelt), and make the bed floor solid again. From there it will be the "little things."

Should be fun!

Here are some pics:

[TJ's Chevy]

Nice truck! I like the rear bumper! lol! Looks to be in great shape as far as dents go.

[hotrod66]

i like an old farm truck reminds me of child hood best of luck with the old girl

[Bomp]

On board. Looks like a fun project.

[Palf70Step]

looks like a great starting point. Looking forward toi see you get here rolling.

[LuckyLightning]

Not too much progress to report. I removed the A-arm from the front bumper, changed the oil (had some fun learning about canisters), and ran fuel from a gas can. With a jump start (the current battery needs to be replaced), she runs! Well, for about a minute. The idle is real real low and she kind of stalls out. I'll tinker with the idle and fuel/air ratio screws tomorrow. Not bad after sitting for 6 years.

I could hear a lifter pretty good, so I'll have to look at that soon. No body work yet. Hope to remove the "cage" this week.

Will post pictures soon.

[TJ's Chevy]

Remove the a-arm thing on the bumper and the cage....but please leave the tool box and spare tire! LOL!

[LuckyLightning]

Yeah, I'm actually on the fence about the toolbox. It will stay for now.

Well, I finally have the truck running under its own power. I dropped in a "new" battery, siphoned out the old gas and put in new gas, and adjusted the idle screw on the carb.

Video of the truck running:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jne6KNfJRUY

[LuckyLightning]

So I tried to put it in gear to test how she moves (and stops), but it wouldn't go into gear. I think the clutch is out.

Boo.

[1963c-10]

Cool truck. Nice find

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by LuckyLightning

Yeah, I'm actually on the fence about the toolbox. It will stay for now.

Well, I finally have the truck running under its own power. I dropped in a "new" battery, siphoned out the old gas and put in new gas, and adjusted the idle screw on the carb.

Video of the truck running:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jne6KNfJRUY

She sounds good! The actual stock idle set for those was 500 rpm..jugding by sound yer idling at about 1000. Nice HEI, headers and dual singles and yer good! lol!

[LuckyLightning]

I decided to (finally) check the master cylinder. It was nearly empty, so I filled it up. Made no difference for putting the truck in gear. Will check slave cylinder and other components when it's daylight.

[bj383ss]

Good looking truck. Nice to see another local. Have you read any of the threads on using CLR on the rust. You might be able to clean it up a lot.

Bret

[LuckyLightning]

Thanks bj383ss, it is always nice to see locals here. I have read of one member using CLR. I tried using a little on a rear fender on day one, but didn't really take off as much as I expected (I'm sure I did it wrong). I'll probably search for the other threads to see if there are any directions for best results.

[bj383ss]

Did you use a scotch brite pad?

[hotrod66]

Originally Posted by LuckyLightning

Thanks bj383ss, it is always nice to see locals here.

we are into the same trucks and probably least liked out of all the gm trucks. so its just nice to see others in our area that are working on similar trucks.
you never know when one of us may need any thing wether parts or just advice.

[LuckyLightning]

Thanks hotrod66, local connections are indeed helpful.

bj383ss, I started with the Scotch-Brite pads with the yellow sponge on the back (using only the green scour pad) and found them to wear down too soon. I switched over to the 3M heavy duty stripping tool that comes with a handle, and had much better results (and less hand fatigue).

You can see below the results from a first pass of CLR treatment. And I finally have the cage removed. The back end is sitting up much higher now without all that weight on it. Anyone know how to balance out the front end so the truck sits more level? I am thinking of adjusting the torsion bars, like I did for my once-owned '95 Z-71.

I'm going to keep looking for a nylon rotary brush to attack the really thick rust that is still left on - it's surprising how hard it is to find one at an affordable price (locally).

Next steps are to adjust the transmission brake so it works (super loose right now), track down the (what I'm assuming) grounding issue that prevents the headlights and driver-side tail light from working. Then I need to track down some decent tires and then it's off to get inspected. I expect to have it on the road in the next 1-3 weeks.

(Oh yeah, and I figured out the clutch issue: just needed to pump out some of the trapped air in the system - works great now!)

[bj383ss]

That is a damn good looking truck.

Bret

[LuckyLightning]

Thanks bj. I plan to hit it with another treatment of CLR (and some Lime-Away spray). If results are desirable, I'll post more pics.

[LuckyLightning]

So I've been messing with things for the last few days. I didn't do another treatment of CLR (although I need to CLR the cab), as I instead focused on the headlights as they and the rear driver tail light wasn't working.

I checked all the connections both in the cab and under the hood by doing the "jiggle" test and nothing seemed loose or broken. So I focused on the headlight switch.

I took apart the headlight switch but didn't see anything major, so I cleaned it and put it back in.

Turning the ignition to see if cleaning it did any good, and now nothing works. Whaaaaaat... ?!?

I look at the connections again, wondering if I messed something up. Nothing seems out of place, but I see the horn relay is in rough shape (validates why the horn doesn't work) so I opt to replace it. Reading up on some of the threads here, I move on to the dimmer switch. It comes apart as I'm removing it, so another wise decision is to replace it. But none of these should be the culprit, so I go to the ignition switch behind the dash. All looks well there.

So I finally decide to suck it up and start testing grounds and connections. I download over a dozen of the various wire diagrams that are available on the board. The last image posted by Apache809 (#2) was the simplest for me to digest, so I stare at it for a few minutes, see that there is a thick red wire and a thinner red wire that runs from the voltage regulator to the firewall, then to the dash, that I should look at first.

Using a multimeter, I check several areas under the dash, but there's nothing. I'm doubting I have a decent ground, but I move on anyway to the fuse block and where the front harness connects. Looking at the cluster, I see the thick red wire will be difficult to get to, so I leave the key in the "on" position so I can do another quick "jiggle" test. Lo-and-behold my dash light flashes. I found the issue! Yes!

So I go outside to poke my head under the hood. I figure I'll squirt some DeOXIT and some die-electric grease in there and see if that will help. However... as I pull the harness out of the firewall connection, I see something that doesn't look right: one of the pins is very skinny, unlike every other one on the truck that I've seen so far.

I take a closer look at the connector in the firewall, and... yes, I think part of the blade is broken inside it. I figure I broke it when I first did the "jiggle" test. Ugh. I figure I'll clean it anyway and just see if it will connect. But... in cleaning it, I broke the thin blade in the front harness. So, I need to replace the front harness anyway.



It's kind of hard to see here, but it's the vertical blade receptacle furthest on the left. (Furthest on the right was empty, anyone know what that is for?).


Looks like the cheapest I can find is $40 at CPP. LMC seems to have one for $120??? No thanks. Not showing up on rockauto, and no one local has it. So I 'll need to wait a few days to get it, replace the front harness (not looking forward to that), then hopefully she will drive once again.

[LuckyLightning]

Also, I got ahold of the previous previous owner (68-14). Pretty cool knowing the history of this truck:

1962-1968: farm/ranch truck (owner #1)
1968-04/2014: farm truck (owner #2)
04/2014-08/2014: sat in a field (owner #3)
08/2014-present: undergoing minor fixes to get road worthy (owner #4)

It's been in the area (central Texas) it's whole life, which is also cool.

One thing the PPO said was that he kept the transmission brake loosened. He would only tighten it up for inspection, then would keep it loose again. He said it seemed to rub when driving. Question is, what did he loosen? I'd like to tighten it up and see how it handles.

[hotrod66]

did you get the thing inspected yet?

[LuckyLightning]

Once my parts come in this week, I can get it drivable again. Tires are next, and then yes: inspection.

[rusty76]

Anything new with your truck?

[FrankyV8]

Cool work truck with killer patina! Running and braking and your done me thinks