4L80e shift linkages

[slolowtaco]

I'm about to start my swap on the ol 69. Going with a soon to be boosted 5.3 and 4L80e. I ordered an ididit column and am having issues finding clear answers as to which shift linkage to use in this setup. Anyone running this configuration and can swing me the right direction or some part numbers?

[bry593]

I ordered the lokar linkage and once I had it laid out, immediately boxed up that junk and sent it back. Ain't a chance I'd use that pile of Chinese hardware to make a Rube Goldberg linkage.

So the solution is to:

1. Because the 4L80E shift shaft is farther back, move OE frame bracket backward to the next hole (about 3"?). If I remember correctly, only the top hole is there and you have to drill the bottom? Anyway, easy.

2. Because the 4L80E is wide, you will need to cut a section out of the center of the bellcrank (the piece between the bracket spring and the transmission shift clevis. This metal is hardened, so will need to use abrasive cutoff wheels. I used a 3" OD, 3/32 thick wheel on a 90 degree pneumatic DotCo. I literally cut a strip (two cuts) right out of the middle.

Once the center is cutout, v groove each side, top and bottom. Clamp with welding vice grips and put a tack weld on each end. Test fit before welding. Is a good idea to heat the metal up some before finish welding. This will help prevent weld cracks due to the metal high strength. Once welded top and bottom, grind smooth and make sure there are no cracks or undercut at the edges.

3. Because the 4L80E shift shaft is farther back, the shift rod needs to be longer. Start by welding a (long) bolt to top end. Note that you need to cut off the bolt head since you are welding the unthreaded portion of the bolt to the original rod (both need to be same diameter). I scarf cut both rod and bolt at about a 30 degree angle and beveled all around for welding. Test fit and then use your cutoff wheel to remove the excess. Again, you want to use a long enough bolt that the threaded portion is completely cut off after welding. You can also use solid, low carbon steel rod. I happened to have bolts lying around, so I used 'em.

5. Because the 4L80 shift shaft is farther back from the firewall, you also need to increase the slight bend that is in the original shift rod. To bend, hold the rod ends in your hands and put your knee at the OE bend. Don't forget to test fit before final paint.

6. Paint everything, final assemble and adjust.

Voila! You now have a perfectly shifting and 100% reliable shift linkage.

PS: If you keep the transmission bellhousing at the same location as the original, then your OE transmission crossmember fits with only one added hole.

1. Slide transmission crossmember back to last set of holes that already exist in the frame. These were used for TH400.

2. Buy an early 90's truck 4l80E transmission mount. This mount has a 1/2" offset between attachment points (the difference between TH400 and 4L80E).

3. Because the 90's truck mount uses a single bolt to the trans crossmember, drill a hole between the two holes of your existing crossmember.

4. Test fit everything and paint.

Hot Dog! You now have an OE quality transmission crossmember and mount, and you didn't have to hack anything up to do it!

[gmc684x4]

Great write up do you have pictures of your cuts to the crank ?

[derotoreut]

I'd like to know specifically what your problem is with Lokar. They make high quality products, all manufactured and assembled in the USA.

[El_C10]

Originally Posted by slolowtaco

I'm about to start my swap on the ol 69. Going with a soon to be boosted 5.3 and 4L80e. I ordered an ididit column and am having issues finding clear answers as to which shift linkage to use in this setup. Anyone running this configuration and can swing me the right direction or some part numbers?

I went with Lokar ACA-1804. Worked great for me.

I have a 6.0 / 4L80E on a 71C10 that has an original 3 on the tree column.

Good luck.
Cisco

[tdangle]

I bought a Lokar ACA-1804 to use with my column shift and 2004r trans. Never could get it to work. Gave up and went back to the solid rod setup by Lokar. Just sitting in my cabinet now.

[El_C10]

Originally Posted by tdangle

I bought a Lokar ACA-1804 to use with my column shift and 2004r trans. Never could get it to work. Gave up and went back to the solid rod setup by Lokar. Just sitting in my cabinet now.

Did take some "finessing". 4L80 trans is a couple inches longer than the 200/700/4L60 types. Direct rod def works better on those.

Cisco

[Andy4639]

I have done 2 vehicles with the Lokar rod shifter linkage and have had no problems with either other than hitting the headers on the 56 Bel Air. But a little tweaking and it was fine.
The 68 step-side was perfect for the 700-R4 transmission.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by tdangle

I bought a Lokar ACA-1804 to use with my column shift and 2004r trans. Never could get it to work. Gave up and went back to the solid rod setup by Lokar. Just sitting in my cabinet now.

Interesting that you say that... I ended up buying the Lokar ACA-1804 because I thought I would have to use a cable shifter kit. I then bought the ACA-1800 solid rod shifter kit. I was able to use that just fine. Had to bend the rod a bit to get around my headers, but that's to be expected. I just sold the ACA-1804. Had it listed here on the classifieds, but sold it elsewhere.

[tdangle]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

Interesting that you say that... I ended up buying the Lokar ACA-1804 because I thought I would have to use a cable shifter kit. I then bought the ACA-1800 solid rod shifter kit. I was able to use that just fine. Had to bend the rod a bit to get around my headers, but that's to be expected. I just sold the ACA-1804. Had it listed here on the classifieds, but sold it elsewhere.

I feel like if the cable had been longer I may have been able to make it work. Was looking for a smoother setup. the solid rod setup although a very positive system, moves around a bit with the shaking of my engine at idle. Has a mild idle due to cam overlap.

[Andy4639]

I used the B&M 6' shift cable and a GM Bravada shifter in my 71 on my 4L80E and it works great.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

I used the B&M 6' shift cable and a GM Bravada shifter in my 71 on my 4L80E and it works great.

Now that's creative. I'm impressed that you were able to get that combo to work. Right on.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

Now that's creative. I'm impressed that you were able to get that combo to work. Right on.

Not bad at all. The Bravada is cable operated. The 4L80E is adaptable. I even have it hooked up to not shift into gear if I want it to.

[Nick2x2x]

I ordered a Lokar shifter but my bad on my part I only ordered a 6" shifter which hit the seat. So I ordered a double bend 12" to move the shifter back closer to the seat. I am mounting the shifter above the floor and will only need to cut a 3" slit in the floor for the lever since it will be almost over the tail shaft.

['70_402]

I also used the Lokar rod kit and bent it a little bit to fit around my headers. Never had an issue...