Hot Rod Flatz

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Anyone use it?

Info, or impressions good or bad?

[Jcfcamaro]

1st up.. I have not used it but was looking at there restoration line of paint which was 189.00 a gallon, almost half the price of Nason ,Basf ect.They will tell you it's the same quality as PPG Deltron paint but I seriously doubt it. I called Barry (owner) at SPI and asked him if he had heard about it and right off the bat he started laughing and told me to stay away from it that alot of his customers have got burned trying to use it as it can take hours for it to flash off after spraying it. He give me several references of other brands of paint to look at that are reasonably priced but are very good quality paint. He told me to look into Wanda paint as its price about the same as Nason but does have the same quality as PPG Deltron. After hanging up the phone I started doing some research on Wanda paint and there's alot of good things being said and I don't think I seen anything bad at all. After thinking about all the hours in body work I've done on my truck I decided that the extra 130.00 a gallon wasn't that big of a deal and I definitely didn't need any screw ups on trying to paint it. Hopefully others will chime in.. Good luck on your build and Happy New Year..

[lupo]

Regardless of the brand of paint and type you use any flattened paint has to be mixed thoroughly. Low speed mixing like an electric drill works well. This is to ensure that the flattening agent is thoroughly mixed in with the paint. Whatever the manufacturer calls for amount of solvent follow it exactly. If you add extra solvent the paint will dry glossy. Spraying both horizontally and vertically helps to prevent tiger striping.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I want a single stage paint in a darker desert tan like color, and I want it to have a satin or flat sheen. Olive drab is not out of the question, but I would like to have a desert explorer vibe.

Years ago I happened upon HRF years ago for a project that I ended up painting with rustoleum epoxy appliance paint in stainless. Due to excessive cost over runs, and just paint it enough to protect the metal for a year or two.

So the Willys will be my 3rd job, and my most difficult. Since it is down to bare metal in areas with what looks like 3 different paint colors underneath. My 2 previous attempts were over worn out stock paint with mismatched fenders. So it was easier for the skills I had, and I had a friend who could really polish a turd.

So I live in California here.

What system or brand should I look for? I am not price sensitive for a quality product.

Should I go to Las Vegas for better product?

Second opinions or options.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I want to stick with a single stage paint for the skills I have, and tools I own.

Ideal color is a slightly darker desert tan. With the possibility of flat blue or olive drab.

Quality of the paint in abrasion resistance is more important then anything to me.

Where I go there is always scrub brush, and hell. Why worry. Just build to accommodate the best I can. The Willys will be used to do stuff, and the body is a bit wavy. So flat paint will hide it's imperfections better. Plus keep hiding them better too.

[mongocanfly]

This may not be what you want, but I know of several folks that have done colored bedliner in place of paint..
You can get about any color and texture, and it has a flat look to it...I've done bedliner, molding down on both the blazer hunting trucks I have,,,,holds up very well and cleans easy...and those trucks take a beating..I've seen some all over jobs that look pretty good...sucks if you ever want to paint it though..
I even sprayed the inside of my alum boat and did a all over on my buddies duck boat in natgear camo
Whatever you decide on, be sure to get some epoxy on that bare metal..

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

This may not be what you want, but I know of several folks that have done colored bedliner in place of paint..
You can get about any color and texture, and it has a flat look to it...I've done bedliner, molding down on both the blazer hunting trucks I have,,,,holds up very well and cleans easy...and those trucks take a beating..I've seen some all over jobs that look pretty good...sucks if you ever want to paint it though..
I even sprayed the inside of my alum boat and did a all over on my buddies duck boat in natgear camo
Whatever you decide on, be sure to get some epoxy on that bare metal..

I have seen it, and I think it is cool on a beater 4x4.

But I am trying to have a decent degree of finish on mine, but being realistic with what I will use it for.

[lupo]

If you do go to Las Vegas to get single stage choose the color you want and add the flattening agent. Add a little reducer as per instructions brush it out and see if it's the correct gloss for your taste. As for the bare metal , the aluminum , mendacious iron oxide pigmented moisture cured will outperform two-part epoxy every time in corrosion testing. In addition it will level up any pitting and improve your body work.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Jcfcamaro

1st up.. I have not used it but was looking at there restoration line of paint which was 189.00 a gallon, almost half the price of Nason ,Basf ect.They will tell you it's the same quality as PPG Deltron paint but I seriously doubt it. I called Barry (owner) at SPI and asked him if he had heard about it and right off the bat he started laughing and told me to stay away from it that alot of his customers have got burned trying to use it as it can take hours for it to flash off after spraying it. He give me several references of other brands of paint to look at that are reasonably priced but are very good quality paint. He told me to look into Wanda paint as its price about the same as Nason but does have the same quality as PPG Deltron. After hanging up the phone I started doing some research on Wanda paint and there's alot of good things being said and I don't think I seen anything bad at all. After thinking about all the hours in body work I've done on my truck I decided that the extra 130.00 a gallon wasn't that big of a deal and I definitely didn't need any screw ups on trying to paint it. Hopefully others will chime in.. Good luck on your build and Happy New Year..

The way I read your post it looks like your opinion was formed by doing research on the one brand and writing off Hot Rod Flatz based on one man's opinion. I'd want to see an equal amount of research on both before taking that opinion to heart. Hot Rod Flatz has been around for a good while now with a whole heap of vehicles done in it. I'm sure you could gain a lot of insight doing more research. I know of many cars being done in HRF over the years and haven't heard bad things. I plan on using it on a project myself and honestly never heard a bad thing until I read your post. I plan on researching deeper now. For my use the idea is put HRF on to assemble and drive the truck while I refine it. Then, hopefully put that beautiful shiny paint on. Basically what guys would do on for the shakedown, but using primer. I want a sealing finish in case the refinement never happens... or takes a long time to happen

[projectking]

Durability and easier application I’d recommend you applying a base/matte clear...or adding flattening agent to a quality clear.

[Jcfcamaro]

Originally Posted by special-K

The way I read your post it looks like your opinion was formed by doing research on the one brand and writing off Hot Rod Flatz based on one man's opinion. I'd want to see an equal amount of research on both before taking that opinion to heart. Hot Rod Flatz has been around for a good while now with a whole heap of vehicles done in it. I'm sure you could gain a lot of insight doing more research. I know of many cars being done in HRF over the years and haven't heard bad things. I plan on using it on a project myself and honestly never heard a bad thing until I read your post. I plan on researching deeper now. For my use the idea is put HRF on to assemble and drive the truck while I refine it. Then, hopefully put that beautiful shiny paint on. Basically what guys would do on for the shakedown, but using primer. I want a sealing finish in case the refinement never happens... or takes a long time to happen

I actually left alot out on my post otherwise it would have been alot longer. I asked the company what brand there restoration line of paint was and all I got back was that it's PPG quality type paint. Also did alot of YouTube /Google research with alot of guys complaining about drying time ect. I'm definitely no paint pro just another guy trying to help out another guy trying to save time and money. Normally when something is half price of all the other brands it should make you scratch your head and start doing research ect.

[special-K]

Yeah, I have been wonering and even asking painters how TCP Global, which is where I've shopped HRF, can sell paint so cheap. I have also shopped their single stage urethane glass colors. Cheap as well. I never have gotten a real answer. And TCP sells multi brands including high end such as House of Kolor. One thing I do know, ask a painter and what you get is their opinion. Those opinions can be based on any number of things, including "It's what I have always used". So that means they have no experience with anything else. It also means they must have had good experiences or they would have given something else a try. My good friend who paints hates Sherwin-Williams because it wouldn't dry for him. I've used their automotive paint in medium gold poly years ago. I had painters tell me that was a terrible color because being high in metallic it would fade really fast. I ran that truck over ten years and it never faded. But I did take really good care of it. The S-W paint my friend used in more recent years had a lot of driers taken out to comply with VOC regs. That may be the problem with HRF. For me slow dry time is not such an issue. I can let it sit and dry. A professional needs the job out the door and no issues with the customer. Or there may be more work needed done, such as a two-tone job.

[67C10Step]

I'll need to do some more research myself as I was leaning towards Hot Rod Flatz in a maroon color to keep with the original vermillion of my truck but with a silver or maybe gray for the roof and interior. My truck will never be a show truck and I'm just looking for a 20 foot paint job that I don't have to worry about dings or scratches so much. In short, it will for the fun of driving but decent looking.

I'm a long way from it so I don't have to make that decision anytime soon. I had thought about buying a quart or two and seeing how it sprays out before I commit.

[LS short box]

I did a 67 Nova using SEM hot rod flat black. I scuffed the some what original paint and had a friend spray the paint. Per my friend it went on kind of strange. Some what mottled until it dried.
I drove it for three years and it was pretty durable. No waxing. Bug clean up with windex. I sold it to make way for another project. Spoke to the guy I sold it to last month and it's been 7 years. Still looks good per him. Made the cover of the 2012 Chevrolet High Performance magazine.

[ChevyRacefan]

Not fer nothing, but Barry (spi) doesn't think much of any brand that isn't his.
That said. with automotive paint you get what you pay for.
Materials, and time cost too much today to end up doing it twice because you tried to save a few bucks.
Good luck.

[Jcfcamaro]

Originally Posted by ChevyRacefan

Not fer nothing, but Barry (spi) doesn't think much of any brand that isn't his.
That said. with automotive paint you get what you pay for.
Materials, and time cost too much today to end up doing it twice because you tried to save a few bucks.
Good luck.

I've called the tech line at SPI a few times and actually talked to Barry and to me he seems very open to helping and actually give me names/levels of paint companies to go with in my build since I'm a do it myself first time type of guy. I would have bought there paint if they offered the color I wanted.

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Jcfcamaro

I've called the tech line at SPI a few times and actually talked to Barry and to me he seems very open to helping and actually give me names/levels of paint companies to go with in my build since I'm a do it myself first time type of guy. I would have bought there paint if they offered the color I wanted.

Well, glad it worked out for you.
And I will leave it at ,that

[projectking]

Originally Posted by ChevyRacefan

Well, glad it worked out for you.
And I will leave it at ,that

Barry also recommended some other products to me...saying get that one not the other one as it’s not good quality, etc

[Richard]

The painter that did my truck has a 67 Corvette in there right now being resprayed due to striping. It was painted with HR Flatz by another shop. He is doing a respray using a base + matte/satin clear. I was told the flat paints are very hard to spray, even with experience. While I did not go with matte the SS PPG paint used on my truck was sourced from somewhere else. I had to go to a lot of trouble to get it. The nice SS paints cannot be shipped or sold in Ca. Oddly a lower voc version of the nicer PPG clear is available in Ca.

[blazer2007]

try SPI black epoxy, I,ve seen many people on the net use it, just another option

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by Richard

The painter that did my truck has a 67 Corvette in there right now being resprayed due to striping. It was painted with HR Flatz by another shop. He is doing a respray using a base + matte/satin clear. I was told the flat paints are very hard to spray, even with experience. While I did not go with matte the SS PPG paint used on my truck was sourced from somewhere else. I had to go to a lot of trouble to get it. The nice SS paints cannot be shipped or sold in Ca. Oddly a lower voc version of the nicer PPG clear is available in Ca.

Thanks

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by blazer2007

try SPI black epoxy, I,ve seen many people on the net use it, just another option

I will look it up

[theastronaut]

SPI epoxy does have some UV protection but I don't think it's recommended as a long term top coat. They do have Matte Clear so you can use any color basecoat for a dull finish. I would use SPI epoxy over bare metal, do your bodywork, then get a recommendation from SPI on base and use their clear. I've been using them exclusively for epoxy and clear for the past few years and just tried their high build 2k; it's all been extremely high quality and great to work with. Base/clear is no harder to spray than single stage. It's going to be difficult to find a flat/matte single stage in the color you want that's also a quality product that's going to last and not turn chalky.