Complete air suspension kit.... Help!

[mtm_seven]

Hey Gang,

I need some help getting a finger on this Airbag suspension crazyness.

I want a full kit for BASIC air suspension front and back. adjustable on the fly but no hopping or dragging - just for looks and handling.

I'm keeping the stock suspension with the exception of a bolt in c-notch, 2 inch dropped spindles, exhaust through the center crossmember and an adjustable trackbar also maybe 2" rear blocks

I don't care to spend 2 grand for a kit from A.R.T. or whomever but want to call SSD or another company of your recommendation with some knowledge ( i know that is a wasp's nest)

This is my wish list please correct my terminology if it's off or tell me if I missed anything....

4 Bags (7" in front and 8" in rear right?)
air tank, pressure switch, relay, pump, gauge
however many valves I need to air up and down (totally confused here)
lines / fittings
front upper mounts
front lower cups
rear cups
rear uppers - do I need those?
valve management - 2 gauges? 2 switches?

What else?
Who do you recommend calling?
Anyone else been down this road and have a $$ total for me?

PS it's a bare frame at this point so nothing is set in stone.

Thanks!
-M7

[BigShoe24]

I would give KP Components a call. They'll put you something quality together.

[pissonNOS]

as far as valves go 8 is what i like u dont get as much body roll as you would with a 4 valve setup i dont know how much the rear lower cups are needed or what they are?? i used slam specialties bags in the rear of mine which ahd trailing arms and i just put the bags i to spacers or anything

[bagged69c10]

You need at least 4 valves but 8 would help with the air transfer from side to side. If you only run 4 valves then you could use 1 dual needle gauge but if you use 8 valves then you need 2 dual needle gauges. I always get my stuff from SSD. I got the EAI switchbox off of ebay and i'm very happy with it. Good luck.

[BigShoe24]

Don't mean to steal the thread, but since where talking about valves, how does everyone feel about manifolds. We have the BigRed from ART, and I like the AccuAir (SlamSpecialties) and then saw GC makes one as well. Anyone have an opinion on the matter? Hope I'm not taking away from the thread. Thanks

[RunninLo]

Manifolds have become fashionable due primarily to there clean look and ease of install. Companies like ART with their big red can make a wire harness that simply plugs in and only 5 air lines to hook up ( supply+ each wheel) usually with a lable engraved above the port. THis can make it very easy for a first time installer to get right right out of the box. Often times the manifold will also be less or similarly priced to all of the necessary fittings to plumb an 8 valve system.

The only drawback is manifolds generally have a slightly more resrictive flow which equals slower response time. Not really a big deal if you're not trying to hop.

in my case I used to buy my valves and fittings in bulk ( for the shop) so I usually have enough stuff lying around to piece a system together so that's what I do. If I ever need to buy off the shelf again I'll probably go manifold for my previous reasons.

Josh

PS to the original poster if you have some fab skill ( welding & torch or plasma ) I have some part numbers for rear bags that bolt in the stock location once you drill upper bolt hole to 3/4 and can get you dimensions to build your own drop perches that will get you pretty close to lay'd out and can walk you through how to make your own front mounts. All you should really need to buy is bag/compressor/line/fittings/switches/guages and I can probably talk you through finding most of that stuff in your town for cheaper than you can mail order. KP sells a great notch though for cheap enough it's not worth the time to fab your own.

[mtm_seven]

Originally Posted by RunninLo

PS to the original poster if you have some fab skill ( welding & torch or plasma ) I have some part numbers for rear bags that bolt in the stock location once you drill upper bolt hole to 3/4 and can get you dimensions to build your own drop perches that will get you pretty close to lay'd out and can walk you through how to make your own front mounts. All you should really need to buy is bag/compressor/line/fittings/switches/guages and I can probably talk you through finding most of that stuff in your town for cheaper than you can mail order. KP sells a great notch though for cheap enough it's not worth the time to fab your own.

I have "OK" fab skills - Hypertherm Plasma, Miller MIG (all the fun tools and friends to help with crap I don't know)... Built not bought is totally the way to go but I also don't want to reinvent the wheel just to save 20 bucks. Dig?

The Notch is in and the center xmember has the exhaust passages welded in. Running a '73 and up front xmember / a-arms with summit 2" drop spindles

Please let me know some tricks for the first time airbagger.

Thanks for not jacking the thread.

Gracias,
Mark

[BarelyLegalFab]

Originally Posted by BigShoe24

Don't mean to steal the thread, but since where talking about valves, how does everyone feel about manifolds. We have the BigRed from ART, and I like the AccuAir (SlamSpecialties) and then saw GC makes one as well. Anyone have an opinion on the matter? Hope I'm not taking away from the thread. Thanks

manifold are the only style valve i will run. cleaner less fitting(less possable leaks) and most of the time a better built valve(opion here lol). But my emplyees run diaframe style valves(gc,smc,parker , ect..). It just depends on what you are looking for.
But if you want a clean simple system run a manifold.


Richie

[BarelyLegalFab]

Originally Posted by mtm_seven

This is my wish list please correct my terminology if it's off or tell me if I missed anything....

4 Bags (7" in front and 8" in rear right?)

-M7

remember bags have spring rates like coils just dont go trowing a 8" bag in the rear because you see it in the mags. bag size will effect you ride. with out writing a book here, i will try to make this as short as possiable:

Quick example: in the front
if you run a smaller bag you will need more air pressure for a certen ride height, what this does is give you a higher spring rate(stiffer ride)
If you tak same truck same ride height, but switch to a bigger style bag, you will need less psi for sam ride height giving you a lower spring rate(softer ride)

i could go on for pages on this subject lol .
if you need more help picking the right bag for your truck feel free to call me 989 671 3729 and i will run you though some options and tell you how differnt bags will efect you ride on your truck.

Them main thing to remember is that you dont just pick and bag and cram it under your truck do a little investigating and get the right bag for you app.

and like i said you guys that have no interest in learning this feel free to call i will set you up right.

i hope this helps you out some.

Richie

[bagged69c10]

My friend just bought the ACCUAIR manifold for his magnum. I was very impressed. I am tempted to sell all my chrome airlift valves and just buy me one.

[mtm_seven]

OK, now I'm jacking my OWN thread.. Ha!

here is a simple manifold from KP

http://www.kplinks.com/product.php?p...&cat=63&page=1

I guess if all I wanted was to go front back then only one is needed. - Cool.- Valve question solved.... will silencers be needed on this thing?

Back to the main questions - and thanks for those offering help. I will contact you once I get all my questions in order.

For the switchbox / gauge - I kinda want to have the gauge in my cluster and the switches hidden. I'm not a fan of stuffs dangling below the dash. Pics of other's setups would be cool. - I don't see many interior setups on the threads - just pics of smashed coke cans (which I digg).

On the front lower A-arms, what goes on there? - just a cup and its bolted to the arm? or do you cut it out and weld in a full piece. - remember, this truck is not intended to lay frame... maybe the next one will.

[jimmydean]

I will be running the GC valves from KP after I spoke to Clint. I like the idea of the 1/4" ports after dealing with the 1/2" setup I had on the '69.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by mtm_seven

On the front lower A-arms, what goes on there? - just a cup and its bolted to the arm? or do you cut it out and weld in a full piece. - remember, this truck is not intended to lay frame... maybe the next one will.

Use the *****************(or equal) full size brackets for 63-87 trucks. This is a bolt-in upper plate and a lower cup that bolts to the bag and 'floats' in the control arm. That is the easy way- and it works well.

[mtm_seven]

So now my question is should I use plates on the lower A-arms or cups. - If I use RE-7's up front the min height is 2.9 inches...

here are 2 pics I found on the bagged thread (both trucks are damn cool) - same basic front setup but one has cups and one has plates. This seems drastic.....

69chevyshort: "It's just a simple air bag setup with 2.5 drop spindles. 2600lbs bags up front 2800lbs. bags in rear. 5 gal. tank viair 450 comp. , and parker 3/8 valves. C-notch in rear and chromed front suspension parts. Wheels are 20x10 and 18x8 with 275 /40 in back and 255/45 in front Toyo Proxes. Any more questions?"

68laydout: "Looks good. I assume that is aired out front/rear? Just curious because that sure is lower than mine fully aired out in the front. I recently installed lower bag plates up front and they suck because I'm 4x4'n now at ride height. I've got 3" drop spndls w/slam bags. Crazy how much more drop you have with a slightly different setup."

PS, if 69chevyshort reads this, PLEASE do not paint that truck. That looks perfect.

[bagged69c10]

Or you can do this on the lower arm. It gets lower for no extra cash.
[/

[mtm_seven]

Originally Posted by bagged69c10

Or you can do this on the lower arm. It gets lower for no extra cash.

So 8" pipe right? I like that - easy enough to do, do you just put a plate in there to create a huge cup?

Originally Posted by bagged69c10

You need at least 4 valves but 8 would help with the air transfer from side to side.

How much transfer are we talking if I use a 4 valve 1/4" internal manifold setup? Is it going to be totally squirrelly on the corners? - if so - i guess another $200 to prevent that is fine. Just thought that a slower system would also be slower to transfer side to side.

[jimmydean]

Just run 8 valves and be done with it.

8 valves give you more adjustment, too. Well worth the extra bucks IMO.

[jkaylor68gmc]

call and just get a cool ride kit!

ridetech.com

[bagged69c10]

Yea I used either 8 or 8 1/2" pipe. Ill double check when I get home. It wasnt very hard to do. Plus you can buy just the upper plates from SSD. I like 8 valves better. My truck also didn't have shocks in the front so its really not much of a comparison but I know that in the Suburban I just finished its nice to be able to raise my side up a little more to level it out because Im so fat. When I used to have 4 valves I would just roll around looking like Gilbert Grape.

[camaro__thunder]

Not to sound like an a$$ but..

SSD- Where do people get the extra S from ? Its SUCIDE DOORS

[mtm_seven]

Originally Posted by camaro__thunder

Not to sound like an a$$ but..

SSD- Where do people get the extra S from ? Its SUCIDE DOORS

earliest case I see on this site is 10/2005 by AKChevyman blame him. I'm just a copycat:

Originally Posted by AKChevyman

not a problem I finsihed up painting the frame and also ordered the polygraphite trailing arm bushings and sway bar bushings now all I need to do is paint bottoms of the lower A arms wait for parts to roll in like my bag brackets from SSD I have to order two upper A arm rubber bumps stops and every thing can go back together. I hope of coarse that isn't how it has been going lately always come across something I need like MY SS brake lines I need to order ;o)

[bagged69c10]

Yea Ill blame him too. I dont think before I type.

[Painter D]

I am running 6 valves on my truck, the front is individual ,and the back is T'd together. I've got no problems with body lean at all and I drive my truck probably more than most people do. The only thing I wish I would have done different is run 1/4 " air line, 3/8 is too fast for me. As for putting guages in the cluster I think thats a good idea, that's what I did with mine , and it works well. I'm also running silencers on my system ,and would recommend using them, they quiet it down quite a bit. I think they slow the dump down a little too. As for cups or plates , I think the cups will sit a bit lower than the plates,( after you cut them down) but the bag may touch the smooth, rolled edge of the LCA when at full dump (mine does). The plate system doesn't let the bag touch anything. I personally used the cups. Hope this helps........Oh yeah ,I couldn't resist not painting my truck. It's in the process of being painted right now. I'll probably regret it later on. Oh well.

[bagged69c10]

Considering your a painter I knew it wouldn't take long. My friend had 6 valves the same way and said it worked fine. Its a good compromise I guess. I still think the Accuair is the cleanest simplest most reliable way to go. You should at least look at all the benefits of it.

[mtm_seven]

What about this manifold:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__VALVES-MANIFOLD-AIR-BAG-Ride-suspension-fbss-3-8-BAGS_W0QQitemZ190245170479QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20Acc essoriesQQddiZ2811QQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190245170479&_trkparms=72%3A774|39%3A1|65%3A12|2 40%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245


Has anyone used it or just afraid of it being junk like me?