Front cab mount bolt stuck to cab.

[desert-rat]

Is this normal? I was gonna change out the bushing but came upon this. I tried hammering it out but no good.

[57taskforce]

Yes sir, I’ve seen a few welded from the factory. I had a 72 C10 from St. Louis like that.

[desert-rat]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Yes sir, I’ve seen a few welded from the factory. I had a 72 C10 from St. Louis like that.

This is new to me. Looks like I'm gonna have to lift the cab a bit higher for the bolt to clear the frame. Just reuse the bolt I guess.

[howzzzit]

Some were welded. Mine weren't. The trick is to use a small grinder and grind off the weld spot. Don't try to lift your cab that high. You'll probably screw up something. Also. are you replacing the radiator support bushings? Need to be done at the same time. I installed the radiator supports first and left them loose so the cab raises without putting pressure on everything. Get your cab mounts on one side. Shim if necessary. Snug em up a little so the cab won't move and do the opposite side. Then torque everything where you want. You probably need to buy grade 5 or 8 bolts. The ones in the kits aren't even marked with a grade. Mine looked as good as new so I reused them. It's not a lot of fun. Here's a video from Brothers. He leaves out a few things, but it will help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hSm020w98c

[1970 CST Short Wide]

My 70 was like that. When I replaced cab mounts years ago I had to grind the head off and then drive it out. A real pain in the Ars

[Getter-Done]

I had one of mine like that in my 67.

I use a small Dremel tool and it took care of it.

[RustyPile]

The bolts in my '71 were welded.. My truck was fully assembled and I didn't want to remove anything, just change out the 6 mounts.. After removing the 3 nuts on one side and loosening them on the other side, I used a small grinder and ground off the heads.. I put a 4X4 under the rocker panel and used a floor jack to raise one side -- fender, cab, and core support.. Replaced all the components, rubber "pucks", sleeves, spacers... Let the jack down and hand tightened the nuts.. Went to the other side and did the same.. Tightened everything up and job finished.. Took me about 1 1/2 hours....

[howzzzit]

Rusty, did everything line up afterwards? I had to shim the rear and front cab mounts more than once to make the doors close properly. Hit the strike. There is a post on here somewhere by a Turf Mcspray talking about shimming the front mounts. I was pulling out hair until I found his remedy. At first I just installed the factory shim on the front. Had to add a couple of shims to the back mounts to get the body lines correct. Of course this raised the back of the cab up and the front of the cab down. Doors don't like that. Had to put another shim in the front and the doors close great. What he said is the frame isn't going to flex so the cab will. The cab would be supported more by the rear mounts and the radiator so it makes sense it would flex downward. Also, I didn't use the factory torque specs. I don't think it will fall off. Guess I'll be the first to know. I don't know how some guys do it so quickly. Lucky I guess. Took me days to make it pretty.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by howzzzit

Rusty, did everything line up afterwards? I had to shim the rear and front cab mounts more than once to make the doors close properly. Hit the strike. There is a post on here somewhere by a Turf Mcspray talking about shimming the front mounts. I was pulling out hair until I found his remedy. At first I just installed the factory shim on the front. Had to add a couple of shims to the back mounts to get the body lines correct. Of course this raised the back of the cab up and the front of the cab down. Doors don't like that. Had to put another shim in the front and the doors close great. What he said is the frame isn't going to flex so the cab will. The cab would be supported more by the rear mounts and the radiator so it makes sense it would flex downward. Also, I didn't use the factory torque specs. I don't think it will fall off. Guess I'll be the first to know. I don't know how some guys do it so quickly. Lucky I guess. Took me days to make it pretty.

His board name is turp mcspray in case someone is using the search to find him....

LockDoc

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by howzzzit

Rusty, did everything line up afterwards? I had to shim the rear and front cab mounts more than once to make the doors close properly. Hit the strike. There is a post on here somewhere by a Turf Mcspray talking about shimming the front mounts. I was pulling out hair until I found his remedy. At first I just installed the factory shim on the front. Had to add a couple of shims to the back mounts to get the body lines correct. Of course this raised the back of the cab up and the front of the cab down. Doors don't like that. Had to put another shim in the front and the doors close great. What he said is the frame isn't going to flex so the cab will. The cab would be supported more by the rear mounts and the radiator so it makes sense it would flex downward. Also, I didn't use the factory torque specs. I don't think it will fall off. Guess I'll be the first to know. I don't know how some guys do it so quickly. Lucky I guess. Took me days to make it pretty.

I've made 3 attempts to answer your questions and to give explanations of what I did. Every time when I click on "submit reply", my entire message gets dumped, just goes away..

Here's the simplified version.. I had absolutely no problems with doors, gaps, nor core support alignment..

[desert-rat]

So far I've tooken 2 different size cut off tools and burned up one. I'm just going through cut off wheels like crazy trying to cut through the welds and the bolt head. What gives? I'm trying not to not cut the cab. The bolt being below the flat area of the floor makes this deal difficult.

[72c20customcamper]

If you an air compressor get a die grinder and some carbide bits . If not the bits work in a drill too just a lot slower

[Getter-Done]

Here's what I used.

Link: https://www.harborfreight.com/07-amp...ece-58999.html

The cutoff wheels are small so you can get down in the pocket.
You just have to let the cutoff wheels do the work because they are thin.
I takes a little bit longer because of the small wheel and minimum pressure being applied.

I used this to cut loose the rusty panels that I had minimum access to also.

[desert-rat]

Originally Posted by howzzzit

Don't try to lift your cab that high. You'll probably screw up something. Also, are you replacing the radiator support bushings?

How high do you think I can lift the cab before I need to disconnect things? What might need to be disconnected? I'm sure the transmission shift linkage.
But yeah, I'm also doing the core support bushings.
I'm asking about lifting the cab because I've already burned up one tool and going through cut off disks fast. Haven't done much cutting to the bolt head or the welds.

[howzzzit]

I don't know, but I'm sure someone on here could say. Here's a link for cutoff discs. Might be able to use a 3 inch also. I've used this style several times for various things with my drill. Had a hf dremel tool. No power. Junked it. There are also carbide burrs.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-...ack-34749.html