Help with removing rust from bare metal (pics)

[desert-rat]

So this is the current state of my cab. Bare metal and left outside. I'll explain more about that in another post. Upsetting story. Small claims court may be filed.
Anyway, it is a rough finish so rubbing a cloth across the metal left lint behind (close up pic). Not too bad though. Maybe I can still rub a cloth and use an air compressor to blow off the lint. I don't know.
But afterwards I still have to degrees it.
The pictures were not tooken sideways. Whatever.
LMK any ideas. Thanks.

[King16]

I would just reblast it. If not sand it out. Blasting will get you back to were you want to be and does the best job.

[YellowK5]

I would run a D.A. sander over that then use metal prep. Or as posted above re blast...But get primer on it asap and dont touch the bare metal with your hands..gloves only

[sick472]

I light blasting will do the best job...I'd blast the whole thing with a hand held gun.

[DLH]

I really like these strip discs. They don't remove parent material and leave a good finish.

[jumpsoffrock]

^^^I also use these for my 4.5" angle grinder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Accelo]

It was silly to leave a freshly blasted cab outside. It doesn't really look all that bad. I would hit it was a DA sander, to remove the rust, and a self etching primer and move on.
Soda blasting leaves a smooth surface, but it will not remove rust. It is slower and the cost is slightly higher. Bet the vendor never even sold it as an option?

I am assuming it was blasted with glass. The guy should have been upfront and let the customer know what it will look like when finished. A glass blasted surface is rough but I will include comments from another post when blasted with glass. I would give them credit but can't find the link right now.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Yes. My sandblaster primes with epoxy. Not only to fill and smooth, more because it will protect the metal same as paint for quite a long time. If you're not going to paint for a while you want to use epoxy.

I only clean the surface and just generally use etching primer (overkill here) or sandable/filling primer. I have never sanded the bare metal and all my painted pieces come out smooth and shiny as any. I want that roughed up texture because it grips the paint

[desert-rat]

Yup, it was blasted with glass. Maybe that was a mistake. So it sounds like most people are saying here is to hit it with a DA sander to smooth out the finish which will also remove any rust?? I'm reading to use 80 gritt?? But some are also saying to keep the rough finish and use 2 coats of epoxy primer than DA sand it. But since rust is now there, it's seems right to DA sand it first to remove rust which will also smooth the body. Than I read about alot to use epoxy primer to protect the body which is also good for body work and body filler. Will epoxy primer stock after I DA smooth the body??

[Accelo]

Yes, epoxy will stick to the smooth metal. I would use 180 to 220 grit. 80 may be over kill IMHO.
The blaster may consider re-blasting it but that bridge may have been burnt.
I am not convinced it's necessary.
It would be a very different situation if it was left in the rain for weeks.
Multiple solutions and their isn't one single best cure all.
Pick the one that works for you. I do recommend using a self etching primer as a prophylactic step in-case you miss a little rust.
The fact the blaster left the some of the seam sealer I take as a good sign. Blasting it all out damages the surrounding metal more than necessary.
Looks like a great start on a project. I am retired and mine took 28 months to running driving.
I named my truck PITA. I can guarantee their is more frustration to come. Thou shall overcome.

Cheers

[57taskforce]

Re blast it in its entirety. It only takes on spot of unseen surface rust to ruin the paint work a few months down the road. When I was doing body work we had an 04 or 05 suburban that we repaired front end damage on. (This was probably ‘07ish) about 4-5 months after the repairs it came back with a hand print in the hood. Someone had touched the hood bare handed after it had been prepped degreased and the natural oils on their hand eventually caused rust to form and release the paint. I always want to see freshly blasted metal in epoxy or etching primer asap after blasting.
epoxy and the remaining layers of top coats should fill the rough surface left by the glass in.

[HO455]

Basically once steel has left the mill it will start to rust unless coated with something. Once the rolls of sheet metal have been stamped and formed to shape the rusting begins on a microscopic level. So from that point on coatings are used to seal the metal from being exposed to moisture and oxygen and slow the rusting. OE make choices to meet cost and reputation requirements.

Once the factory coatings fail this is where folks opinions and experiences differ as to what to do for good results.

Your decision is how much metal do I want to remove in order to have the least amount of rust remaining. Sandblasting and grinding make your panels thinner.

Then what product/process will seal the metal from moisture and oxygen. Then what top coat will work with your sealing product?

Every step requires various amounts of preparation work sometimes before application or after application of a product or both.

Good luck and keep us in the loop.