Ez-Wiring help with ignition hook-up

[concretekiller]

Yes. Did you combine the pink and brown wires on the ignition switch? How did you wire yours, like the picture?

[Steve-W]

Originally Posted by concretekiller

Yes. Did you combine the pink and brown wires on the ignition switch? How did you wire yours, like the picture?

to be honoust, I came to this thread to find how-to's I'm still in the process of getting it wired up.

Another thing came to mind last night and that is; what if EZ wiring got it wrong? so your wire diagram and colours don't match?

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by concretekiller

So if wiring this up for a '65, where will the brown wire hook up to? I have the pink going to IGN.

Piggybacking on a thread with this much complication is never a good idea especially when the years are so different. The 72 ignition is way different than the 65 and the wiring can be too.
Take a look at this thread and see if it helps........ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427476, and get the dome light hooking to the key switch idea out of your head. The dome light does not connect to the key switch on any models that I am aware of. You need to figure out if the wiring harness you have is for a 1965 or a 1972 and go from there. Also does your truck have gauges or idiot lights?

Originally Posted by Steve-W

to be honoust, I came to this thread to find how-to's I'm still in the process of getting it wired up.

Another thing came to mind last night and that is; what if EZ wiring got it wrong? so your wire diagram and colours don't match?

Like I said above, You should start your own thread because the number of problems contained in the original thread plus Concretekillers problems and being a different year just confuse the issue.

Would you guys please make a signature and give some details on your trucks. It really makes it a lot easier to answer questions and solve problems.

[Steve-W]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Piggybacking on a thread with this much complication is never a good idea especially when the years are so different.

fair enough, I have my own thread going: i suck at reading wiring diagrams

[concretekiller]

I'll figure it out on my own, but seeing as how this thread was about wiring the ignition switch with an EZ Wiribg harness, that's why I started asking questions here. I could care less about the dome light, however, seeing as how my starter tries to engage while turning the truck OFF, that makes me think that I wired my ignition switch wrong. The dome light was something else I had notice along with the starter problem.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Steve-W

fair enough, I have my own thread going: i suck at reading wiring diagrams

I saw it and I will be replying in it soon.

Originally Posted by concretekiller

I'll figure it out on my own, but seeing as how this thread was about wiring the ignition switch with an EZ Wiribg harness, that's why I started asking questions here. I could care less about the dome light, however, seeing as how my starter tries to engage while turning the truck OFF, that makes me think that I wired my ignition switch wrong. The dome light was something else I had notice along with the starter problem.

When you ask questions about wiring an ignition switch you need to ask about how to do it on the year of your truck not on a 1972. That's why I referred you to the thread for your year. If you have the switch for a 1972 then it's going to be different and the harness must match the switch.

You nay not care about the dome light but it may very well be why your starter is cranking when you turn off the key. I'd be more than happy to help you straighten out your wiring but I'm not going to post in a thread that has this many issues

[54belair]

I know this is an old thread, but like me I know several people still search for answers to EZ wire harness issues.

Ive used EZ wire harnesses several times down thru the years and I don't remember having the issues with them that Ive had this time. I have read this thread and others and since wiring is something foreign to most of us, the threads always seem to wander as we all search for the answers to our own particular issues.

I just want to address One issue------The wiring of the 67-72 chevy truck ignition switch.
My harness kit (as well as most other general purpose harnesses) come with the Ignition switch wired in two connectors to connect into the steering column. When you use the older dash mounted switch, you have to make some changes.

Today, (since Ive been having the same doubts as many others) I contacted Tech support at EZ-Wire about the ign. switch issue.

The EZ wire harness has the following wires for the ignition switch and they are marked as Im listing:
1. RED -------------------- Ign switch pwr--------connect to Batt term.
2. Black pigtail------------ Ign switch pwr--------CUT Off-Tape exposed end
3 Orange------------------Ign switch Acc.--------connect to ACC. term
4 Purple-------------------Ign switch Start-------connect to Start term.
5 Pink---------------------Ign switch Coil --------connect to IGN term
6 Brown-------------------Ign switch Ign --------connect to IGN term

There is a picture of this on page 13 of the ez wire manual (although it doesn't include wire colors)

Also, ez wire doesn't supply the green wires and the brown wires that go to the G 1 and G2 terms (if used) .


As I said, this comes from the factory tech.--He tried to tell me a couple times that the proper wiring was shown in the diagram on page 13 of the manual. I explained to him that I didn't have a page 13 in the manual. He suggested that I might have a "knock off" harness but luckily I still have the shipping box (since I ordered this harness almost two years ago) with the factory return address on it. Since Ive used their harnesses before I still had an old manual and he told me that ALL manuals are the same--have been for 20 years.
The guy I talked to was helpful and offered any further explanitions I might need. If you are having issues with THEIR harness I would call their number. Ive read several threads here and other places and even though we are all interested in helping each other, there is still doubt and some confusion in some of the threads. One thing I have noticed is that the One issue that always comes up is Ign switch wiring (which is probably the most critical area ).

As I said----My comments Only apply to the EZ Wire harnesses

[VetteVet]

The EZ wire harness has the following wires for the ignition switch and they are marked as Im listing:
1. RED -------------------- Ign switch pwr--------connect to Batt term.
2. Black pigtail------------ Ign switch pwr--------CUT Off-Tape exposed end
3 Orange------------------Ign switch Acc.--------connect to ACC. term
4 Purple-------------------Ign switch Start-------connect to Start term.
5 Pink---------------------Ign switch Coil --------connect to IGN term
6 Brown-------------------Ign switch Ign --------connect to IGN term

There is a picture of this on page 13 of the ez wire manual (although it doesn't include wire colors)

Also, ez wire doesn't supply the green wires and the brown wires that go to the G 1 and G2 terms (if used) .

Thank you for posting this helpful information. I suppose I may have ruffled some feathers in the original thread. It's been so long ago that I don't even remember if we solved their problems.

I would like to point out a few things that will be helpful and even necessary for the harness to work correctly on the 67 to 72 trucks.

The EZ wire harness has the following wires for the ignition switch and they are marked as Im listing:
1. RED -------------------- Ign switch pwr--------connect to Batt term.
This is correct.

2. Black pigtail------------ Ign switch pwr--------CUT Off-Tape exposed end
The stock harness does not show this wire although it could be used as a power take off for any full time hot source. Tape it off if not used as suggested.

3 Orange------------------Ign switch Acc.--------connect to ACC. term....
This is a 12 gauge brown wire on the stock harness, and it runs to the fuse panel and powers the heater and wiper circuit, as well as the turn signal flasher, and hazard flasher for the steering column. It should have a 20 gauge resistance wire connected with it which is the exciter wire for the alternator.
I'm not sure how the EZ harness accomplishes this task.
See the wiring diagram below.

4 Purple-------------------Ign switch Start-------connect to Start term.
Same as stock.

5 Pink---------------------Ign switch Coil --------connect to IGN term....
This wire is a feed wire for the coil, the fuse panel and indirectly ( off the fuse panel for the dash cluster. It comes off the key switch and supplies key on power to those items. Check the diagram. Follow the pink wire from the key switch and it's easy to see.

6 Brown-------------------Ign switch Ign --------connect to IGN term...
This is probably the exciter wire or it might be the ACC power wire in the case of the pre 68 trucks whose key switches do not have ACC terminals. if it's the exciter wire it will be smaller and the stock wire has a white stripe in the insulation. Again see the diagram below.


Also, ez wire doesn't supply the green wires and the brown wires that go to the G 1 and G2 terms (if used) .

These two terminals were used as grounding points for the temperature warning lights in the idiot light dashes without the gauges. When the key is turned to the starter terminal these two points ground the brown and green wires that were connected there. The green wire was the temperature light wire and the brown is the brake light wire. After they installed the gauge dashes the temperature light was eliminated so they no longer needed the green wire or the terminal on the key although it may still be there.\
The brown warning light wire is still used and the wire should still go to the key switch.
These two terminals are completely independent of the starter purple wire terminal, obviously since they connect to ground through the key switch, internally. This feature is illustrated in the threads about going from a light dash to gauge dash.

Now for the diagrams.

The key switch is at the top, notice the arrows for the ACC and exciter wires.
The exciter wire is just below the brown ACC wire and it is 24 gauge.




This one shows the key switch hookup and the green and brown wires and their terminals. There is a real time picture posted in the thread by Fix-it P of the key switch wiring and they are shown in it as well.






This is the main harness showing the pink wire off the ign terminal and how it splits in the harness and feeds the fuse and ignition circuit.

[54belair]

VetteVet,

Really good post. I think youre post added a lot to mine. For those of us using EZ Wire harnesses, this ought to definitely answer the question, "How do I wire my ignition switch". I really like the full color diagrams too.

As I mentioned, Ive used Ez a few times before without difficulty. Im thinking it may just be the application(?) this time although in my past experience, the cars were all older (which may mean simpler ?)

[Robznob11]

I know this is a way old thread, but it kept coming up every time I searched for help and a solid cut and dry answer. So now that I have sorted it out i figured I would add to it for others trying to solve there dead side of the fuse box issues. Let me also tell you that if you swap the orange ign acc for the brown ign you will have undesired circuits running in acc mode (ie..fuel pump). The black pigtail is not needed but the 67-72 has an extra tab so why not leave it instead of cutting your new harness. Also the terminals in the ez plugs can be unpinned and re installed into the stock pigtail. (You can buy the pigtail at napa). The terminals are gm 56 series and you can get them auto parts stores. Orylies has the only ones i found for 12 ga wire. If you get these you can put the brown ign and pink coil together and solder the terminal for a factory fit pigtail. No need to cut any others. Also you can use the 67-72 switch in a 61-66 dash with using the original chrome retaning nut for the desired year. This will give you acc position. Use the 67-72 lock cylinder. You may need a flat washer on back side to get a snug fit. Here is a self explanatory pic. Cant get easier than this!