86 k10 brake light and emissions delete

[seano]

I stumbled across this forum a few days ago while stalking some trouble shooting info which helped greatly. I'll try my best to and give you everything I've done so far.

I recently bought a 86 k10 with a "350" and THM700-R4 4x4, that i 90% sure is a replacement motor but not sure about the trans. I drove it home about 2 hours away after a 30 min test drive and it has good power and seemed to run pretty well. I did some work and went out to start it today and the brake light is stuck on.

It was kinda of a hack job where the, I think attempted to delete the emissions and add headers (stock intake manifold) during the motor swap which I believe I finished. Im pretty sure the distributor and carb ( quadrajet ) are capable of but would like some insight from you guys. I also noticed the carb has a choke wire tied into a hot coming from the alternator and there is a vacuum connection that wasn't hooked up on the choke assembly. What do I need to get this going again?

Whats been done so far
-Spark plugs and wires

-Distributor cap and rotor

-Exhaust manifold to block gaskets for the headers.

-Timing without vacuum advance set to 36 at 2500rpm

-Multiple vacuum leaks fixed and or deleted. I'm at 15-16 psi at 650rpm in park idle cold. I only have the vacuum advance brake booster hooked up atm but will be adding in the vacuum for the HVAC. The carbon canister was unhooked so I'll probably just buy a new gas cap.

-I had to shim the power steering lower driver side mount to get it to line up and stop squealing.

-I set idle down to 550ish in gear and 650-700 in park

-Fuel filter in the carb fuel line connection.

-anything else you can think of to check?


Brake Light Stuck on
The brakes feel okay and I couldn't find a leak but I definitely need to bleed them. The level at the master cylinder looks the same as well. The connection for the proportioning valve is hooked up at the valve and goes back through the firewall. The ebrake pedal hangs but light stays on if i lift it up all the way.

Any help on the emissions delete or brake light issue would be great and i had troubling uploading images here so I have the hosted at http://imgur.com/a/as9wE

[seano]

Well scratch the brake light off. I came checked the levels again and the smaller front section was empty so that mean rear leak right?

[seano]

Well I have the brake line patched and bleed. The lights off and the feel great so I think I'm done there.

I found out my distributor is an EST model and I bypassed it by following these instructions http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/escrepl.htm .

I just cut A and C (labeled on the weatherpack connector) at the connector and soldered them so both are going back into the the distributor. I then just unplugged the knock sensor leaving only the pink ignition hot going into the BAT port on the distributor cap.

I also found out my carb 17057204 is a M4MC. Here's a good lookup site.
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumbe...umber=17057204

This site has a nice breakdown of what the numbers mean.
http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-st...ication-guide/

I'm still not 100% sure on what the vacuum looking connection is on the choke assembly though. Also I still am having trouble finding my fast idle adjustment which needs a little more IMO. Thanks for any help.

Edit: Yes I'm using a pcv valve which wasn't in the first post and no that is just the aircleaner I use to make adjustments when running the carb.

[seano]

AHH It was in the link I used.... I need to read a little closer.

"It is a R4-M4MC the M4MC is a Hot air side mounted choke Rochester Quadrajet 4 barrel carburetor, which means the choke is located on the passenger side connected to the carburetor and draws hot air from the intake."

Do I need to cap this off or what?