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Old 09-08-2017, 03:27 AM   #101
gokellurself
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Alright whats up fellas... I had promised an update after Labor Day but I ended up getting back into town Monday night instead of Sunday night like I had planned so I did't get the full day on it like I was looking forward to. I finally got over there tonight though and had a chance just to get reacquainted and reprioritize my To-Do List, and this Sunday I'll be getting a solid day on it as well.

I did get a couple hours on it tonight though and got a couple photos, so I want to update on the wiring a little bit

As stated before, I went with the American Autowire Route 9 kit, which is just a really stripped down basic kit, but they hook it up and give you a really high quality, complete set up that makes it easy to wire. Their instructions were the best I had seen online, and the two times I called the tech line to clarify some decisions I was making they were totally cool and extremely helpful. I gathered up all the paper work I had filed away on any wiring components I had purchased and I set to work

First off, I set aside a lot of sustained time to complete this part of the job and I am so grateful that I did as it made all the difference. I wouldn't say it was more work than I expected it to be, or even more difficult than I expected it to be, but trying my best to be meticulous with wire routing and bundling, and trying to get the whole thing to come together as cleanly as I could was so much more time consuming than you could imagine. Trying to do this under pressure would have just totally pissed me off and would have made for a frustrating experience, but with time set aside it was actually pretty fun getting as particular as I could muster and zoning in on it.

That being said, I still ended up with a few minor things that I think I would have changed if I were starting all over again. I put everything under the dash, but for some reason I thought it would be cleanest bunching all of my components really close together... So then after mounting the fuse box, the battery distribution block, the fan relay, the horn relay, then running all the wiring, it was all so close that it really made that area look congested. I think spacing things out and planning for that aspect could have helped clean it up a lot

One thing I was frustrated about with the kit itself was that I knowingly bought it in part because it had a 30 Amp fuse for the Heater/AC, and being that I wasn't running either of those, my electric fan called for a 30 Amp fuse, so I just thought that was perfect. After talking with the tech line though they basically said that they really don't recommend that I run it like that and that that much of a draw could damage other parts of the fuse panel connected to the same bus on the inside, etc, etc... So I figured I had a slam dunk but instead in my already congested area I was pushed into having to add a 30 Amp inline fuse between the battery distribution block and the fan relay.

I spent a lot, a lot of time organizing the wiring and I think my diligence paid off as even if it's not perfect, I might fool a couple people with how tight and clean the rest of it looks. I bought a decent pair of Irwin wire stripper/crimpers and I used a lot of heat shrink connectors. At the end of it all I had very little trouble shooting to do and it all pretty much worked out















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Old 09-08-2017, 04:07 AM   #102
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Alright so I also bought some pretty heavy duty cable from the local stereo shop (which might be overkill, but hey) and I went ahead and crimped, then soldered, then heat shrinked these connections. I have the positive lead running along the passenger frame rail to the starter, then I have the ground going to frame, a solid ground from block to frame, then another one from block to body. It wounds like people recommend one from frame to body as well?? But I felt as if it was all grounded sufficiently, so somebody let me know if I should really add that final one.

Months and months ago, after getting the engine all totally together I remember spending a thorough amount of time trying to not mess up and get my initial timing setup pretty decently, so once I double checked everything I could, I got my fire extinguisher ready, and had a friend on standby with me I went ahead and hit the key to the ignition on.. No explosion so far... so once I double checked a couple things and verified that I was getting fuel and spark we went ahead and tried to crank it

Now you can tell when an engine is trying to fire up, and this thing absolutely, positively sounded nothing like that. It would just crank, and backfire, and crank... Nowhere even close. I double checked a couple things and I knew about the possibility of having the distributor in 180 degrees off, so after cranking a couple times I just wanted to verify that first. I got the #1 piston to TDC then I peaked under the distributor cap and confirmed that it was pointed toward the #1 cylinder. It was.

So I put it back together, crank it a few times and of course I get the exact same. So this time I decide I'm going to pull the cap completely and go all through the initial timing set up routine again and see what the hell's going on. I pull the valve cover and confirm the #1 cylinder at TDC again, then I pull the wires off the cap and pull it off and VOILA, it was pointed at exactly 180 degrees the wrong way!

Turns out I just so happened to set it 180 degrees off in the very beginning, then when after cranking it several times and checking it again, it just so happened to still appear to be correct. Now by this third time it finally appeared to be 180 degrees off, so I pulled it, rotated it and hooked it all back up.

This time when I cranked it immediately you could tell the difference. Right away you could hear that it was chugging and trying to fire up, and from then on I was all settled and felt like I had it under control. For a minute there I was starting to get nervous and feeling so incompetent because it seemed nowhere close to running and I did't know what to do because everything seemed right... but sure enough after a few cranks and pumping the pedal a few times it was up and running like a champ. I adjusted the idle screw a little and messed with the timing light a little and it seems to be running really clean and the engine sounds super crisp. feeling like a boss ass mastermind truck builder

Immediately after that I shut it down and proceeded to get a beat down by the braking system for the next 4 days...

but thats a story for another time lol




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Old 09-08-2017, 04:28 AM   #103
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

I do have some quick questions however. I still have some wiring to finalize outside of the cab for lighting and etc and I'm just waiting on some cloth wire loom + dual filament running lights. I was doing some reading and it was recommended that I electrical tape the full length of the wire before pulling it into the wire loom though, and really I don't care to do this... does anybody have thoughts on this?

Also, in the vent in the center of the dash, above the ignition and the cigarette lighter, there is a bracket that looks as if it originally held a dash light socket. I haven't found a part number for this yet and I'm curious if anybody knows if there is one or what this used to be, or how I could utilize something else to make it work. I had been looking forward to having the vent being illuminated and think it'd be cool to get this in. Might have to go with an LED strip or something if I can't figure out an original

Anyways, I appreciate the input and I apologize for the long-winded entries over here. More updates to come, thanks for checking it out






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Old 09-08-2017, 09:21 AM   #104
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

the vent in the dash isnt a vent, its open like that for a map light that goes in the bracket you are describing, there was a switch under the dash to turn it on. it was for illuminating the choke and throttle bowden cables as well as the ash tray, or just for reading a map.

I wired a dash light in mine that turns on with the rest of the gauge lights so its on all the time with the headlights, but dimmer than it would have been originally, because I put my HVAC controls there and they arent backlit. the bracket you are missing is just a light box that keeps the light from scattering anywhere but straight down, I think I have one out of a dash already and if I do I will snap a picture, I didnt use it on mine because its a dim little dash bulb.

the zip tied wiring looks great, very clean. look up how to do aircraft lacing on youtube, you will save money and time if you ever do it again with the nylon string, I used to do it as an aircraft tech a million years ago.


very very clean work!
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Old 09-08-2017, 12:33 PM   #105
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

thanks dude yeah the bracket that is imaged is mine, I have that part. We tacked it onto the dash when I had some dash work done, but I have been looking around for a little self grounding socket and haven't found a part number. I figure I can find some generic one to work, I just haven't begun looking down that path yet so I have nothing figured out so far
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Old 09-08-2017, 11:13 PM   #106
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

wiring looks great. much easier to keep things clean with small amount of circuits. I usually opt for 21 circuits bc its nice to have the options for down the road. but... so much more to handle. Wiring is labor intensive, even though it doesn't seem like it would be.

I use 0/2 welding wire and press the ends on in a vise. not sure if its cheaper than what you got or not. NEVER heard of electrical tape on wires bf loom.

One word of advise I learned, on bullet style connectors even if you use heat shrink on them, they can get corrosion if they are exposed to elements. I now opt for weather packs. Its a bit more tricky to crimp them right and costs go up a a bit, but its much nicer to just unhook a 4 wire weatherpack and you know it will never leak.
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Old 09-09-2017, 06:14 PM   #107
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

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Originally Posted by gokellurself View Post
thanks dude yeah the bracket that is imaged is mine, I have that part. We tacked it onto the dash when I had some dash work done, but I have been looking around for a little self grounding socket and haven't found a part number. I figure I can find some generic one to work, I just haven't begun looking down that path yet so I have nothing figured out so far


I think this is it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OLD-DASH-PAN...T/142454929907
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Old 09-09-2017, 09:11 PM   #108
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

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the zip tied wiring looks great, very clean. look up how to do aircraft lacing on youtube, you will save money and time if you ever do it again with the nylon string, I used to do it as an aircraft tech a million years ago.
Hey that comes out super clean, thanks for being that up that's slick. Would you also do that before pulling on wire loom? Or do people just leave the wire loose within the loom?

I swear I over complicate things so much, after that link you sent a quick search for "single contact socket" brings up part numbers from both summit and American Autowire. I really appreciate that attentiveness Joe thanks for the help
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Old 09-11-2017, 01:23 AM   #109
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

alright so I got a full day on the truck like I was hoping and made all the progress I was hoping to make. I want to step back real quick and update on the brakes and how they were giving me so much trouble. Now that I have experience in this area I feel I could go back in time and knock out everything I needed to do to get them bled and done in a day. I think it took all the time that it did because I wasn't even aware how to approach the situation with a thorough, systematic way in order to get them done right the first time. I think it's made all so worse just cause you're dealing with brake fluid and getting that dripping all over the place

Anyways, here we go

Right off the bat I needed to change the location of the remote reservoir fill. I always find myself trying to be slick, thinking I'm being smart then finding that it's really more of a headache. I mounted it on the back wall of the under seat area, where with the seat on I couldn't even get a funnel to it. I went ahead and moved it near the front on the side and got it so I could fill it quite easily.

Progressive Automotive offers to make you a brake linkage, all you gotta do is call in with your dimensions and they'll send one out to you. My booster is placed so far back that when I saw the dinky thing they sent me I went ahead a cut a new one out of solid 3/4" stock and went with that instead.

So at this point I was ready for day one of bleeding the brakes. We went old school with it and had a buddy over pumping the brakes for like an hour straight and us not getting anything out. I was starting with the farthest wheel, so I'm in the rear and just not getting anything... I go ahead and send him off. The fronts seemed to at least be getting fluid in the lines, though those didn't seem to be bleeding either. Even with no pressure on the line I found a leak on the front left line coming off of the front distribution block. Now this is another situation where I thought I was being slick and tucked the distribution block all funky in the frame... It made it a b**ch to get to and now I know that especially on brake lines, or any type of plumbing for that matter, try to keep the connections in easily accessible locations... Being as that my cheapo flare tool was probably the suspect, I went down to the autoparts store and picked up a pre-flared line that happened to be the perfect size and got it switched out.

So now day 2 I realized I should really try more aggressive means, and I went and picked up a harbor freight vacuum bleeder. With this I was getting somewhere. The fronts seemed to be getting fluid through but I was getting absolutely nothing but air out the backs. I sat doing it for an extended time just thinking it was coming slowly but surely, however it never did... I began having concerns about my rear brake cylinders, as I had changed the bleeders on them but not the actual cylinders. They were old and original, so if something were wrong I figured that could be a cause of a bunch of air getting through.

Not sure if they were ever actually an issue, but as a precautionary measure I went ahead and switched those. On the third day I added teflon tape to the bleeders as to try to cut down on the air getting pulled in through the threads. This seemed to help ALOT and by now I was finally getting some pedal inside the cab. Around this time however I began realizing that I had been skipping the steps of double checking the gap between the booster and cylinder and also bench bleeding the cylinder. I figured these were adding to my soft pedal woes.

I pulled the cylinder, realized my huge gap, closed it up and bench bled the cylinder. Put it all back together and was finally actually getting decent pedal.












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Old 09-11-2017, 01:32 AM   #110
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

I had set the gap at about a 1/4", but later found something call the spec for .020" So today I pulled everything again to reset the gap. Got some photos this time, bench bled the cylinder again and got it all back together. Vacuum bled everything and was getting solid streams of fluid out of each bleeder. Brake pedal was feeling really good so I went on and moved to the other things I had going on to get the truck up and on the street

To answer Paintman's question, looks like a 1" cylinder. I had to extend the bolt an 1 1/16" beyond the face of the booster to close up the gap. With the truck running this evening the brakes seem somewhat non responsive for the first 1/4 of the pedal, then they proceed to be very strong beyond that. Idk if that sounds similar to Paintman's issue but with them working so well I'm gonna let them be for the moment








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Old 09-11-2017, 02:07 AM   #111
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Now for some other stuff I had going on

My gauges all seemed to be reading funky and/or not reading at all. I had ran them all in series and I had even thought about the fact that if even one gauge messed up that it was going to mess up the rest of them, but I swear sometimes I'm too positive and I just figured I was going to wire it all correctly and there weren't going to be any issues.. Of course I didn't sit down and do the Ohm's law math and figure out what the result of running everything like that was gonna be, but when I began doing some troubleshooting I knew I needed to switch everything to parallel before I started anything. So this was another example of me being slick and it backfiring

But actually running everything in parallel seemed to fix it all. In series I must have been getting too much drop for anything to be working right. I seem to be getting about 30 psi oil pressure at idle. The only thing not reading right was the water temp, so I needed to get it up to operating temp to actually see about that one

I went ahead and fired up the truck and was filling up the trans fluid while it was idling and getting up to temp. Started right up today and seems to be running well.. I might still be idling a little high but without a tach idk.. I might end up adding a tach on the column for this

So basically the water temp gauge would be at zero, then later would be fully tacked out. It was months ago when I had installed the temp switch for the fan and the temp sender for the gauge, so apparently I had forgotten which one was which lol I had the gauge hooked up to the switch, so when it reached operating temp and switched on, it'd ground out the circuit and max out the gauge. I switched the wires between the two and then all my gauges seemed to be working correctly.

I ordered a speedometer cable from Bowtie Bits, so that thing showed up. My fan seems to run pretty much all the time once it gets up to operating temp, so idk that might just be how it's gonna be.. I went ahead and put everything back together, installed the inner fenders, steering, topped off steering fluid, and double checked everything I could.

One thing to mention is that the truck is highly likely a '41 and with that it had the '41 inner fender supports that bolt to the frame. I wanted to run the '46 supports that bolt to the cab however, so a while back I had grabbed a set at the old man's junk yard and got them drilled and bolted onto the cab. I had modified the inner fender to pass my steering through (sorry Paintman) and in fact on the passenger side I am still running an inner fender that is meant for a '41, and is slightly modified to hit the new 46 supports.

I tried a few test runs while the rear tires were in the air, then I set it on the ground and inched down the street on it's first maiden voyage

















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Old 09-11-2017, 08:51 AM   #112
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Everything fighting you is kinda the ropes alot of times. It can be daunting but it makes you truly understand things. I had problems with no fluid to rear cylinders on my first build, the MC needed bench bled again. I had problems with my clutch, pedal was bottoming out on floor. I spent countless hours on each, but figured them out.

Truck looks great, can't wait to see some video.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=382481

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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...62#post7399162

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Other projects, 49' farmuse 3100, killer Patina, will be slammed, LS engine, full done interior up next!


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Old 09-11-2017, 09:04 AM   #113
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Do you have a master cylinder for a power brake booster?
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:30 PM   #114
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Yeah I kinda figure as much that nows the time I'll really be getting to work all the kinks out. Guys like you and Joe are so good and so quick because you've already done it so many times and have learned

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Do you have a master cylinder for a power brake booster?
Know what I'm not exactly sure.. they came together so I had assumed that they would be right for each other but really I wouldn't know. How could I got about checking on that?

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Old 09-11-2017, 12:48 PM   #115
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Hey any of you guys running tanks under the beds in your truck, how/where are you running the breather vent?
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:13 PM   #116
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

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Hey any of you guys running tanks under the beds in your truck, how/where are you running the breather vent?
I'm running a mustang tank under the bed. I bought a neck with a built in vent from tanks inc., I think or maybe it was fillerneck.com. problem is the tank sits up so high in the frame there is very little room between the tank and the bed wood and I had to cut the vent tube down a bit. I also leave my gas cap slightly loose to let her breath. I'm still trying to figure out what is wrong with my fuel guage as I have a constant empty problem. For now i am just using the stick method to check my fuel level because I don't want to pull my dash apart.

It's amazing how many people have issues with the gap between the booster and the MC You would think they would set the proper gap at the factory when it is assembled. I still have the same problem as you. I have zero pedal for the first 1-2" then I get a good pedal. It may be because I have a small leak at the rear residual valve. When I address that issue I think I am going to try an 1-1/4 MC.
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Old 09-18-2017, 02:33 AM   #117
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

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I'm running a mustang tank under the bed. I bought a neck with a built in vent from tanks inc., I think or maybe it was fillerneck.com. problem is the tank sits up so high in the frame there is very little room between the tank and the bed wood and I had to cut the vent tube down a bit. I also leave my gas cap slightly loose to let her breath.
What does your fill neck look like? I really think I'm over thinking this now... mine looks like this, plus the breather vent/valve. I just don't know where a sleek, tucked away spot to mount it is gonna be and have to take into consideration not having dips where gas could get caught into the line

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Old 09-18-2017, 02:53 AM   #118
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

well folks, I've been on a real hot job this week, and glad to say I finally got it all knocked out. I kept saying that once I'm up and running then I will really be getting to work the kinks out, and so far that is holding true, so this all good. I trouble shot it all Monday, then only had from about 6 PM after work each day to get a couple hours in, but finally got a full day on the truck today and am back up and solid

So basically I'd have the truck running and idling and everything would be looking good, sounding good. Then I'd run the truck down the block and I'd come back dripping just a ton of oil... I came to find out that at idle there wasn't enough oil pressure to cause any issues, but soon as I'm up in RPM's down the street it would be enough pressure to have oil coming out somewhere in the rear of the engine.

First I confirmed it wasn't the oil pressure sender or the oil pressure switch. It wasn't, but I eventually had to pull the pressure switch because it was blocking my view of where it was actually coming from. I had it in the oil port on the top of the block at the back of the intake manifold, and replaced it with a 1/8" brass plug.

From there I was able to clearly see an area where oil was seeping right out between the intake manifold and the block. I pulled it all apart to have a look and pretty quickly was able to see what was going on. On the front and the back strips you create your own gasket with RTV, and it's a shame cause somehow right in this one area I must not have put it on thick enough and I could see on either side that the seal wasn't getting made






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Old 09-18-2017, 03:44 AM   #119
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Changing out an intake manifold is no big deal, right... but no, it keeps going. I saw this little area of coolant down in the engine area and started being concerned about coolant crossing over and getting into the oil. I figured it was just residual coolant from the intake manifold/block that had fallen down in there, but I figured I'd just drain my oil and see what it was looking like

Sure enough it was milky, and after a while of letting the pan settle out you could tell that the coolant had separated itself and was sitting in a fine layer on top of the oil.

Now, I have to be fully transparent here and own up to what mistakes I had made when initially building my top end... I was a bit hasty at the time for sure, I checked the photo dates during that time and it was over a year and a half ago that I had initially done it.

But I remember not cleaning off any of the bolt threads, and I remember straight up dipping the bolts in oil then bolting the heads down. Big mistake. At this point I'm surprised I wasn't leaking blinker fluid as well.. pretty much the only thing I did right was the torque spec and sequence

Now if it were only coolant in the oil, I would have considered trying to change and add sealant to each bolt one at a time. But since I had the intake off already, I in a way felt a responsibility to take it all apart and attempt to do it properly.

So this time I actually chased all the threads, including the ones on the block, I cleaned up all the mating surfaces, got new gaskets and grabbed some teflon sealant. I drained all the coolant from the block and got the rest of it torn down one evening after work.

I had it all back together Friday and just let it sit til I could get back over there Sunday to do all the final reassembly stuff and fill all the fluids up again. I ran it for a while today and so far so good! A few trips up the block and back and so far not a drop. As far as coolant in the oil goes though, I'm gonna run it again tomorrow and then go ahead and change the oil again this week and see how it's looking. Even if it's good to go Im hoping this oil change will help get any of the extra moisture out that had gotten in there initially. And if the oil is milky again then, well... idk what to do so pray for me

Also, one minor fix that I took care of all at the same time was that the tensioner pulley was too close to the radiator fan. I had noticed it before but being as it wasn't a spinning part I paid it little mind, but I didn't consider the fact that the tensioner is spring loaded, so once the engine was running it would move just enough and create like a tapping noise, bumping on the fan housing. I had mounted the fan dead center on the shroud so while I had everything apart I went ahead and pulled the shroud and shifted the fan up and to the right and drilled new holes. Plenty of clearance now

I tried to clean up my spark plug wires a bit too by running them on the under side of the headers, but really they're not quite long enough on the passenger side to do it. Looks a little better though, I'll take what I can




















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Old 09-18-2017, 06:28 PM   #120
joedoh
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

man I shoot myself in the foot so much its a wonder I can walk. I am sending you a 1700 mile shoulder pat brother
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:05 PM   #121
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

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Originally Posted by joedoh View Post
man I shoot myself in the foot so much its a wonder I can walk. I am sending you a 1700 mile shoulder pat brother
thanks man I appreciate that. you know, we get to knowing our builds so in depth that we're aware of every single wire, every bolt. you get to knowing it so much farther than the average person or somebody who didn't build their ride, it's kinda crazy
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:43 PM   #122
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

well I could wait no longer... I literally tore the truck down as soon as I got it so even I have been curious how it was going to look once it came back together. I just kinda pieced it together at the moment, still needs miscellaneous adjusting and finalizing but here it is.

I'm hoping my metal guy can roll out some of the body work on the lower front and clean it up, I have the valence, and the rear fenders need to be dropped down and finalized.

I have been hesitant to do much of anything to the patina but I'm starting to think it's probably about time for a thorough sponge bath and see how it comes out
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:51 PM   #123
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

Looks great! I think the only thing it needs is a front bumper. And a windshield
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:42 PM   #124
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

that is a patina from the patina gods. engine doing ok? def don't want to rush stuff like that. it takes alot of time cleaning the block and threads. Just food for thought, any engine I get or build I typically do a compression test. Just helps to know what each cylinder is doing. You could also do a leakdown test on your cooling system just to make sure there is no cracks in the head or block. I doubt there is, but its good to rule things out.
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Old 10-02-2017, 02:03 AM   #125
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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build

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I would suggest painting it. You can always do some fake patina on it if you really want to.
SHADES Thanks for the fauxtina reminder, definitely turned out to be the right route

Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 to Life View Post
that is a patina from the patina gods. engine doing ok? def don't want to rush stuff like that. it takes alot of time cleaning the block and threads. Just food for thought, any engine I get or build I typically do a compression test. Just helps to know what each cylinder is doing. You could also do a leakdown test on your cooling system just to make sure there is no cracks in the head or block. I doubt there is, but its good to rule things out.
The guy selling this truck actually called me right when he listed it, apparently he saw some ad I had on CL, probably flipping 46 parts, and hit me up. I was heavy on the hunt for a nice patina after I wasn't liking the direction the first truck I bought was going, so I jumped all over it. Funny how that stuff works out... I couldn't be happier with mine but as far as patinas go I think the real gems are the nice even ones like your 51.

Good call on the engine testing, I can't believe I hadn't jumped on that for curiosities sake. I haven't gotten to the leak down yet, but I ran the compression test one evening and I think my numbers are looking pretty good. I let the gauge jump up 4 times, and typically did 2 tests per cylinder, sometimes 3 to make sure I was getting a good reading. Each cylinder came in between 110 + 120 psi, so if I'm not mistaken I think that means I'm doing alright
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