Engine height and output shaft angle

[Steve Cole]

What Mongo said..

[62chevy302]

I moved the trans mount up on top of the crossmember and it moved me to 5 degrees. You can see that in the pics. It took another3 inches to get it to 3 degrees

[StorminNorman]

That mounting pad on the trans is fairly close to the output C/L. Kinda like a 4L80e. I wouldn't be surprised if you need a spacer under (over?) the mount.

Edit :
If that xmember is this unit :
https://www.performanceonline.com/19...n-Crossmember/

Which it says fits Turbo 350/400, then you definitely need some kind of spacer. TH 350/400 mounts are farther forward and lower on the trans than it appears yours is.

[62chevy302]

I bought that style of crossmember because it bolts to the top and bottom of the frame. I will shim up the rear of trans and report back.

[71Charlie10]

subscribed

[J3rm0ff]

I used the same engine mounts as 62chevy302 and the stock transmission crossmember and mine is angled too much. I'm hoping spacing up the Trans will solve my issue. I read of a lot of people using the 73+ frame stands and clam shells with the dirty dingo sliders but didn't see anyone mention any angle issues.

[62chevy302]

I moved the clamshells down to the 6 cyl holes on the stands and cut the transmission mount pad off and flipped it. I havent set the engine and transmission back down in there yet but hope to in a couple weeks to remeasure the angles.

[Steve Cole]

Keep us posted when you remeasure the angles. I have a similar situation. '68 c10 (low hump) I used the 73 & up clam shell style mounts from ECE and their trans cross member as well, (it looks just like yours) My engine sits at 7* nose up with the frame level. I hate it. There is no room to shim up the transmission because it is almost hitting the pinch weld in the trans tunnel now.
I may have to go with different engine mounts but I'm now sure which ones will work.

[62chevy302]

Got any pics of the ece mounts?

[J3rm0ff]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Keep us posted when you remeasure the angles. I have a similar situation. '68 c10 (low hump) I used the 73 & up clam shell style mounts from ECE and their trans cross member as well, (it looks just like yours) My engine sits at 7* nose up with the frame level. I hate it. There is no room to shim up the transmission because it is almost hitting the pinch weld in the trans tunnel now.
I may have to go with different engine mounts but I'm now sure which ones will work.

I ended up using the 73+ c10 frame stands and making my own engine side mounts and spacing up the trans until it was as close to possible to the cab and it’s at a reasonable angle now. The truck oil pan is about a quarter inch from the crossmember.

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by 62chevy302

Got any pics of the ece mounts?

https://www.earlyclassic.com/sites/d...?itok=BEYu-H7H

If this link doesn't work, just go to earlyclassic.com. They are on the home page.

[62chevy302]

Ive seen them on the website . I was looking for them installed.

[Steve Cole]

These are not the best pics, but here you go.









Pic 3 shows the 7* angle of the engine - not acceptable
Pic 4 shows plenty of room between the oil pan and steering linkage. I need mounts that will drop the front of the engine down.

[62chevy302]

Yes the front defiantly needs to go down.

[62chevy302]

It looks like these might help you some. They are dd 73-87 sliders. Something else I just realized is I was measuring this with hd springs in the front. You can see my a arms where not leveled. I hope that once i set it back in there everything should level out.

[Steve Cole]

Hey Stexag, first of all, sorry your thread got hi-jacked!! I too have a steep engine angle and cannot get my tranny any higher without cutting the trans tunnel. You do not have much room to play with near your steering linkage either. I have almost 2 inches to go down in this area. I am thinking about going back to the factory perches and using adapter plates. You may need to do the same, I don't see how you could lower your motor much more with your current set up. Good luck and keep us posted what you end up doing!

Originally Posted by stexag

Guys, I am having an issue with the the angle my 5.3 is mounted on my truck.

I have a 68 C10 that I removed the 6 from and am installing a 5.3/4L60E combination. I swapped the front crossmember from an 80s truck for the disc brakes. Other components include:

CPP sheet metal engine stands, Dirty Dingo Sliding adapter plates, & Energy suspension 'low & wide' SBC engine mounts

For a transmission mount I used the Early Classic 63-72 Auto trans xmember

The engine sits incredibly steep. With the frame level and the transmission mount (energy suspension) sitting right on the X member it was about 8*. I shimmed the transmission up almost an inch to get it to 5* but it is pretty high. I haven't set the cab on yet but I suspect I will have clearance issues the way it is now because I already have a problem at the middle crossmember with the driveline. I have checked this angle on the back of the output shaft and on the front crank pulley and they agree. I have heard the CPP engine stands can leave the engine a little high but I am currently just 1/2" between the pan and the steering link. If I could get the engine down that 1/2" I think I'd really need to do the same in the rear - still maintaining my 5*.

Has anyone had similar issues or does anyone recognize where I may have mismatched some components that could have contributed to such a steep engine mount? thanks.

[shifty]

Steve reached out by PM and pulled me back to the board. Just thought I'd pop in and mention I had similar issues with my 68 C10/LS1 swap.

I ended up going with the ECE mounts and tranny xmember with a truck oil pan, truck oil pickup and dipstick on an LS1 out of a totalled WS6. Tranny was smacking the tranny tunnel on my cab and didn't quite fit how I wanted on the stock xmember nor at right angle. HAd to cut my short hump and go with the taller big block tranny hump.

If it helps, here's a link to my thread and all the crap I did to overcome fitment over at LS1tech, pay attention to posts #42-50 for tranny and tunnel problems:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-stepside.html

I'd tossed together a bunch of links to other GenIII build threads over there where you might find similar fitment issues:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ml#post3395546

Some pics in my LS1tech build thread are dead, I should probably go back over there and fix that eh? It's been a minute.

@62chevy302 that green Z71 in your pic up above is a twin to the '98 I bought last year.

[shifty]

Here's a bunch of pics in no specific order - there are a few directories for specific stuff I was doing. http://www.satellitehead.com/images/68chevy/ls1/

But this is ultimately what I ended up with - ECE crossmember, tinkered with flipping right-side up and upside down, that and ECE mounts solved my fitment issues with just enough space between front of engine and radiator/fans.

[Steve Cole]

Thanks for all your help Shifty, you're a good dude!

I was thinking of trying to use these.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/C10-LS-LSX-...QAAOSwyLlXoVrI

In conjunction with the ECE mounts, (frame side parts)you think it could work?

[62chevy302]

They look just like the dirty dingo without the ability to adjust any.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

I was thinking of trying to use these.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/C10-LS-LSX-...QAAOSwyLlXoVrI

In conjunction with the ECE mounts, (frame side parts)you think it could work?

Here's what I'd say:

Look at this picture and you'll see how the ECE top-half plates bolt to the block. It looks like the kit you're looking at on eBay allows you two different mounting options, about 2.5"-3" out from where the ECE mounts are, and another 0.5" out. (I see two sets of 4 holes about half to an inch apart). You should (key word "should") be able to use that top half of mount with the bottom half of the ECE mount.

That said, if you measure up and find pushing the whole block forward 2"-4" those may work for you. The two considerations I'd warn you about is to be conscious of how the block is centered over the wheels and make sure there's no risk of interference with the A/C compressor (if applicable) And steering gearbox.

Note the bolt holes on the ECE are perfectly centered over where it meets the mount. I assume you won't have any added vibration issues from having the bolt holes off-center on the eBay mount?

[62chevy302]

Good looking truck shifty.

[Steve Cole]

Jason,

According to the description, you get two mounting options: original SBC location, and 1" offset. I believe "original location" is referring to the bellhousing being located in the original position. Here is part of the ad description:

Used for retrofitting older GM vehicles with clamshell mounts to a new LS engine. Eliminates the need for adaptor brackets, lowers the center of gravity, and achieves 3 degrees of motor angle. Union made, laser cut 1/4" mild steel brackets made in the U.S.A.
73-98 chevy trucks and other cars that use the clam shell
Stock holes and 1" offset

What do you think?

Originally Posted by shifty

Here's what I'd say:

Look at this picture and you'll see how the ECE top-half plates bolt to the block. It looks like the kit you're looking at on eBay allows you two different mounting options, about 2.5"-3" out from where the ECE mounts are, and another 0.5" out. (I see two sets of 4 holes about half to an inch apart). You should (key word "should") be able to use that top half of mount with the bottom half of the ECE mount.

That said, if you measure up and find pushing the whole block forward 2"-4" those may work for you. The two considerations I'd warn you about is to be conscious of how the block is centered over the wheels and make sure there's no risk of interference with the A/C compressor (if applicable) And steering gearbox.

Note the bolt holes on the ECE are perfectly centered over where it meets the mount. I assume you won't have any added vibration issues from having the bolt holes off-center on the eBay mount?

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

What do you think?

I say if it ain't going to hurt the wallet too much and you aren't in a rush, go for it. If all else fails, you may be able to recoup some cost trying to re-sell here on the board if they don't work - I managed to recover some funds on similar parts for my '68 that way - I probably spent 40% more than I needed to testing various things out, there's always a better way.

Originally Posted by 62chevy302

Good looking truck shifty.

Thanks! Same with yours, my friend.

Mine definitely wasn't looking this good when I got it - dents galore, passenger front/rear seat brackets rusted out from the swamp of water inside caused by leaks in windshield/cowl area/seam sealer crack above driver's door/3rd brake light, mildew everywhere, holes in dash, shredded headliner, ripped leather seats, A/C leaky and not working, camber/toe out on passenger front wheel, oil pressure sending unit faulty and bounces like crazy, missing various interior parts here and there, very obvious void in steering gear right near top/center that's annoying as hell but never wrecked.

I'm slowly working at getting it watertight --- almost there, just one more nagging leak from the cowl area and it's not the usual screw above the airbox intake nor is it the sealed panel above airbox opening! but hey I got it with only 88k miles on the clock! No exterior rust. Got a pretty damn good price because the seller was so sick of the water in the cab.

Some more pics attached. (edit: these are from the Craigslist ad when I bought it)

[62chevy302]

I finally got my engine set back down into the frame. My engine angle is at 3 degrees as it sets now. Im afraid that when I add the rest of my front end sheetmetal, wiring, interior it will be below 1 degree. I realized that my original problem was that the springs were too stiff and my suspension was sprung all the way up.