Right turn signal broken due to loose column

[Montierth]

I have a column shift automatic non tilt original steering column. Has anyone had the problem where turning left the blinker turns off by itself as it is supposed to but when turning right it will not turn off? What I found out is that if I push up on my steering wheel (taking up all the play from wear over the years) then it will turn off the right turn signal. I have examined all the internals and all work fine and are not broken from what I can tell. What parts in the column would I replace to remove all the slack or looseness of the steering wheel?

[Rufas]

Try replacing the turn signal switch and/or the canceling cam.

['68OrangeSunshine]

The lever on my turn signal switch has been loosening itself, ever since I replaced the T/S Sw assembly.
The lever was loose but would still actuate the turn signals.
This morning as I made a left to get on the highway heading into town for work, I heard a CRACK inside the steering column, some grating noises when turning and no turn signals. Must've snapped the plastic Cancelling Cam inside.
Making old school turn signals by arm, until I can get to pulling the wheel and yanking the Switch harness.

[Boog]

If the steering wheel itself moves up and down that's likely to be the upper and lower bearings worn out. Without replacing them a new turn sig switch might not work for long either.

[Montierth]

PO replaced turn signal mechanism. I just installed a cancel cam and it did not work. When I held the old one up to the new one they are slightly different. So I put the old one back in and back to working with L turns again but no R turns. I just don't want to keep putting more time and money into this column when I can get a new one for $250-$300. I'll try the upper and lower bearings. Oh well, that's how it goes with these trucks.

[special-K]

Yeah, sounds like upper bearing anyway. Fix that, then new turn signal switch. The cam is probably broken. Is your front end good, no side to side play in the wheel?

[Montierth]

The old cam looks good. A little worn. If I push up on my steering wheel (take up the play in the wheel) when I turn to the right then it will usually turn off the R turn blinker. I may just try the new upper bearings then maybe go for the lower.

Interesting though - The new cancel cam I bought was just slightly off from my original so that nothing worked with it. So much for replacement parts. The contact part of the cancel cam also touched some metal inside the column and would cause horn to go off.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Its probably the lower brg. It catches a lot of road splash.
George

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Montierth

Interesting though - The new cancel cam I bought was just slightly off from my original so that nothing worked with it. So much for replacement parts. The contact part of the cancel cam also touched some metal inside the column and would cause horn to go off.

There is another thread on here somewhere that addresses the problem of the LMC cancel cam shorting out underneath and how he cured it but I couldn't find it.

LockDoc

[Montierth]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

There is another thread on here somewhere that addresses the problem of the LMC cancel cam shorting out underneath and how he cured it but I couldn't find it.

LockDoc

The brass ring on the reproduction cancel cam was just wide enough or the neck of the cam was just short enough that the brass ring touches the screw on the blinker arm. Drove me crazy when I turned corners it would honk! Fortunately I caught it before I had o go somewhere and was able to pull it out and put the old original on in.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Montierth

The brass ring on the reproduction cancel cam was just wide enough or the neck of the cam was just short enough that the brass ring touches the screw on the blinker arm. Drove me crazy when I turned corners it would honk! Fortunately I caught it before I had o go somewhere and was able to pull it out and put the old original on in.

Thanks for the follow-up.

LockDoc

[Andy4639]

If you can push the whole steering wheel up it's time for either a new column are a complete rebuild. Non tilt columns are not hard to build at all. There is a difference between the tilt and standard canceling cams also.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by special-K

Yeah, sounds like upper bearing anyway. Fix that, then new turn signal switch. The cam is probably broken. Is your front end good, no side to side play in the wheel?

I think that may have some ''bearing'' on my case as well. When I last had the steering wheel apart, I noticed a BB was missing from the race in the upper wheel bearing. I packed it with red grease when I changed out the T/S Sw this summer. But I have heard some 'crepitus' before the cam broke. Also have not been able to get my horn to work right. It would honk on a right turn, ar first. Then honk [or make the disconnected horn relay go click-click] at the slightest steering movement. I bought a remote horn button and relay, but have not installed it yet. Rather use the OEM horn.
Guess I need to rebuild the whole steering column. It's all manual. No P/S, no Tilt, no Automatic.
Does anyone sell a whole steering wheel kit [not counting LMC]?

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Its probably the lower brg. It catches a lot of road splash.
George

That would be a good reason for that one to go first. But I said upper because that is how the steering wheel can move like that. If it was only the lower the wheel could 'pivot' some like a tilt wheel because the bottom end of the shaft could move, but the steering wheel would be firm in it's perches. He can move the wheel up and down in it's perches. After all these years and no lube ever (most likely) AND pulling on the steering wheel getting in and out of truck, the upper bearings tend to go bad. 4wds have this problem more than 2wds

[Montierth]

Problem solved!

I another 1970 non tilt column that I cracked open tonight. I started looking at the mechanism and what I found was the top spring for the right turn signal when it hit the cancel cam it would bend upward instead of engage and turn off the blinker. When I looked at the older OEM blinker mechanism the springs just looked a little beefier.

After I confirmed it was working I also swapped out the upper bearings and that also took out some of the play in the wheel.

[special-K]

Good to hear. Nothing beats going in for an exploratory. I tend to hesitate. But when I dive in I am usually pleased to find the issue and solve it. It's also nice to have spare original parts to compare. I used to always have at least one truck sitting around to compare to. I miss that!

[Montierth]

Originally Posted by special-K

Good to hear. Nothing beats going in for an exploratory. I tend to hesitate. But when I dive in I am usually pleased to find the issue and solve it. It's also nice to have spare original parts to compare. I used to always have at least one truck sitting around to compare to. I miss that!

When I originally got into the truck I would sell "extra" parts that I was not going to use and now years later I am kicking myself for it. The new reproduction parts look nice but sometimes they just don't work. I was getting ready to order a plethora of parts to try to fix this. In the last few weeks I must have taken the wheel off 6 times playing with the turn signals. Interesting how a little firmer steel or slightly larger gauge would make so much difference.

BTW here is a pic of the new cancel cam that would touch the screw and honk horn.

[Montierth]

Also now I need to figure out how to make steering wheel straight while keeping the cancel cam equal with right and left turning shut offs.