Drop spindle/brake line problem - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Slonaker · 01-07-2004, 02:17 AM

I spent the last few days rebuilding the frontend of my truck. Tonight I was trying to install the brakes on the new Western Chassis 2.5" drop spindles, but I can't get the caliper to go onto the spindle. Before the caliper is completely in place, the metal end of my brake line hits the top of the spindle. Hopefully you can see what I am talking about in this picture.

I installed the new brake lines a couple of months ago, and had no clearance problems with the old spindles.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Did I put something together wrong?

Could I have the wrong parts? I have 1" rotors, and asked for the appropriate spindles.

Could it be that these brake lines are bent differently than the stock ones? They were an enormous pain to install, and I would rather not do it again.

BTW, it has been 37 degrees while I was working tonight out in the driveway, but was around 80 degrees late last week.

Thanks,

Slonaker

corn · 01-07-2004, 02:32 AM

At first I was going to say to loosen the brake hose & move it to clear, but looking at the pic again it almost looks like you could slip the top of the caliper in first & slip the hose fitting up under the spindle & the slip the lower side in...corn

Slonaker · 01-07-2004, 02:39 AM

I have tried it every way I can think of, and it just won't clear the top of the spindle. The rubber portion of the brake hose is touching the top of the spindle in the picture, but the caliper is nowhere close to being in place.

I'm really hoping that I have just made a stupid mistake, and have something in the wrong position. It wouldn't be the first time...

Slonaker

SCOTI · 01-07-2004, 09:14 AM

I don't remember that problem w/the WC 2.5" spindles on my 68, but I did have to 'tweak' the hard line for the 3" spindles on my 74.

I bolted the banjo fitting into place & it was in a bind against the back of the spindle so I put a large screwdriver behind & very gently pryed it away until it had enough clearance. Don't get carried away because you don't want to 'pinch' the hard line. I also had to flip (invert) one of the tabs that connects to the front a-arm so the rubber flex line had a better angle to the caliper & reduced the amount of bind. I just cut the end off, inverted it, then re-welded it back together.

Slonaker · 01-07-2004, 11:19 AM

Mine is in such a bind that I can't even get the holes to line up on the caliper and the spindle. It looks like I will have to do more than "tweak" it. I am concerned that that much bend may kink the line.

Slonaker

Tom · 01-07-2004, 01:36 PM

Its happened on both my trucks, with 3" DJM and belltech spindles. I just loosen the hose and move it as far to one side as I can, then shove it in there

Seriously, they can take a little bending at the 90* metal part. Be carefull and don't use a large blunt object to do it. Its always a tight fit and I have to re-think how to do it every time I install a pair of spindles, but its not too difficult.

SCOTI · 01-07-2004, 03:47 PM

Snug the banjo fitting to the caliper off the spindle & 'tweak' it out slightly. Try to install the caliper again. You should be able to tweak it enough that it will bolt up. Once the caliper is properly mounted & tightend completely, pry the line out so nothing rubs on the spindle.

ocbaud · 01-07-2004, 04:09 PM

when we lowered my truck we had the same problem on both sides. with teh same spindles. we just used a small rubber sledge hammer to hammer the caliper in

worked great

Slonaker · 01-07-2004, 04:13 PM

I am surprised that I have never heard anyone mention this...

I guess it is time to start bending.

Thanks,

Slonaker

ocbaud · 01-07-2004, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Slonaker
I am surprised that I have never heard anyone mention this...

I guess it is time to start bending.

Thanks,

Slonaker

jon and i posted lots a bout it when we lowered my truck. but it was over a year ago and the thread is gone

Slonaker · 01-07-2004, 05:26 PM

I remember when you guys lowered your truck, but I don't remember that. I have been planning this for a couple of years, and always try to read what I can about other people's experiences with lowering their trucks. I try to benefit from the lessons they have learned the hard way.

I probably killed the brain cells that information was stored in one of the times I was doing this

while working on the truck.

Slonaker

*1FaastC10* · 01-07-2004, 05:35 PM

same problem with my Chassis Crap spindles, was a lot worse than it was with the WC spindles when i mocked the calipers up to them. both were 2.5" spindles.

**swervin ervin** · 01-07-2004, 06:30 PM

Same problem here. Nothing a little bending won't fix. I guess we all just took it for granted and forget to ever mention it since we didn't like having to do it either.

Maybe we can Jeff to write a article on this and stick it on 73-87.com

One thing I'm sure we've all figured out is whenever you change anything from stock on these trucks, there's always some things that need a little TLC.

Slonaker · 01-07-2004, 07:33 PM

I have a 3 lb. "TLC" that often needs to be used on my truck.

Slonaker

allthrtl · 01-07-2004, 08:38 PM

Nothing like 3lbs of PURE LOVE......

*1972C10* · 01-07-2004, 10:58 PM

Apply heat so it wont break

*1FaastC10* · 01-08-2004, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1972C10
Apply heat so it wont break

great idea. while we're at it why dont we just go ahead and remove the brake fluid altogether, rather than just breaking it down with heat. we dont really need all that liquid crap in there anyways, do we!

Senor_paco · 01-08-2004, 02:04 AM

Yuo know, I had the same prob, but i just ordered the Russell braided hose set (all 3 ) from Jegs for about $90. They worked better than the rubber, feeling so much better, but the main reason i got them was when i asked my dad (He bought it new in '77) when the hoses were replaced, he said "the what?". 'Nuff said.

*1972C10* · 01-09-2004, 09:35 PM

Well i assumed They would Bleed The Brakes And since there didnt seem to be anyway to have it held under the truck perhaps they could remove it and put it in a vise ever thought of that?>

The metal part of those brake lines are kinda crappy when they get bent they tend to kink

*1FaastC10* · 01-09-2004, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1972C10
perhaps they could remove it and put it in a vise ever thought of that?>

A. it only needs to be moved a very small amount, so you can do it with the hose still attached to t he truck and hooked to the line and the caliper.

B. ever thought of stating removing it when using heat? good way for someone who doesnt know what they're doing to get hurt.

Slonaker · 01-10-2004, 12:25 AM

It looks like mine will need to be bent quite a bit.. It is a real PIA to remove (It is new, I know how much work it is...) so I plan to bend it while it is hooked up. I'll just take my chances with it tomorrow, and see what happens.

Oh, and be nice, Jeremy...

Slonaker

*1FaastC10* · 01-10-2004, 03:36 AM

not trying to be mean, but not all of us think on the same level. just trying to make sure that someone doesnt do something that is going to adversely affect their truck, especially when it involves the brake system. not only could that mess them up, that could mess me up too.

*1972C10* · 01-10-2004, 05:37 AM

I dont see any reason to get so derogitive over it .

I was just tryin to Give the advice Of heating the part so it doesnt fattigue and break off I assumed Common Sense Would Come Into Play

Ohchiiit · 02-20-2015, 03:59 PM

Bringing this post back to life! I myself am having the same issue. What was ever done to fix this problem? I see this was originally from 2004 but still hoping for some help

**lolife99** · 02-20-2015, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ohchiiit

Bringing this post back to life! I myself am having the same issue. What was ever done to fix this problem? I see this was originally from 2004 but still hoping for some help

Just tweak the steel end of the rubber brake hose.
It's been this way since the 80's.

01-07-2004, 02:17 AM	#1
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	Drop spindle/brake line problem I spent the last few days rebuilding the frontend of my truck. Tonight I was trying to install the brakes on the new Western Chassis 2.5" drop spindles, but I can't get the caliper to go onto the spindle. Before the caliper is completely in place, the metal end of my brake line hits the top of the spindle. Hopefully you can see what I am talking about in this picture. I installed the new brake lines a couple of months ago, and had no clearance problems with the old spindles. Has anyone else had this problem? Did I put something together wrong? Could I have the wrong parts? I have 1" rotors, and asked for the appropriate spindles. Could it be that these brake lines are bent differently than the stock ones? They were an enormous pain to install, and I would rather not do it again. BTW, it has been 37 degrees while I was working tonight out in the driveway, but was around 80 degrees late last week. Thanks, Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

01-07-2004, 02:39 AM	#3
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	I have tried it every way I can think of, and it just won't clear the top of the spindle. The rubber portion of the brake hose is touching the top of the spindle in the picture, but the caliper is nowhere close to being in place. I'm really hoping that I have just made a stupid mistake, and have something in the wrong position. It wouldn't be the first time... Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado Last edited by Slonaker; 01-07-2004 at 02:41 AM.

01-07-2004, 09:14 AM	#4
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,910	I don't remember that problem w/the WC 2.5" spindles on my 68, but I did have to 'tweak' the hard line for the 3" spindles on my 74. I bolted the banjo fitting into place & it was in a bind against the back of the spindle so I put a large screwdriver behind & very gently pryed it away until it had enough clearance. Don't get carried away because you don't want to 'pinch' the hard line. I also had to flip (invert) one of the tabs that connects to the front a-arm so the rubber flex line had a better angle to the caliper & reduced the amount of bind. I just cut the end off, inverted it, then re-welded it back together. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-07-2004, 11:19 AM	#5
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	Mine is in such a bind that I can't even get the holes to line up on the caliper and the spindle. It looks like I will have to do more than "tweak" it. I am concerned that that much bend may kink the line. Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

01-07-2004, 01:36 PM	#6
Tom driving is in my blood Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 5,692	Its happened on both my trucks, with 3" DJM and belltech spindles. I just loosen the hose and move it as far to one side as I can, then shove it in there Seriously, they can take a little bending at the 90* metal part. Be carefull and don't use a large blunt object to do it. Its always a tight fit and I have to re-think how to do it every time I install a pair of spindles, but its not too difficult. __________________ -78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me.

01-07-2004, 02:32 AM	#2
corn Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: here Posts: 5,789	At first I was going to say to loosen the brake hose & move it to clear, but looking at the pic again it almost looks like you could slip the top of the caliper in first & slip the hose fitting up under the spindle & the slip the lower side in...corn

01-07-2004, 03:47 PM	#7
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,910	Snug the banjo fitting to the caliper off the spindle & 'tweak' it out slightly. Try to install the caliper again. You should be able to tweak it enough that it will bolt up. Once the caliper is properly mounted & tightend completely, pry the line out so nothing rubs on the spindle. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-07-2004, 04:09 PM	#8
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	when we lowered my truck we had the same problem on both sides. with teh same spindles. we just used a small rubber sledge hammer to hammer the caliper in worked great

01-07-2004, 04:13 PM	#9
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	I am surprised that I have never heard anyone mention this... I guess it is time to start bending. Thanks, Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

01-07-2004, 05:26 PM	#11
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	I remember when you guys lowered your truck, but I don't remember that. I have been planning this for a couple of years, and always try to read what I can about other people's experiences with lowering their trucks. I try to benefit from the lessons they have learned the hard way. I probably killed the brain cells that information was stored in one of the times I was doing this while working on the truck. Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado Last edited by Slonaker; 01-07-2004 at 05:28 PM.

01-07-2004, 05:35 PM	#12
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	same problem with my Chassis Crap spindles, was a lot worse than it was with the WC spindles when i mocked the calipers up to them. both were 2.5" spindles.

01-07-2004, 06:30 PM	#13
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	Same problem here. Nothing a little bending won't fix. I guess we all just took it for granted and forget to ever mention it since we didn't like having to do it either. Maybe we can Jeff to write a article on this and stick it on 73-87.com One thing I'm sure we've all figured out is whenever you change anything from stock on these trucks, there's always some things that need a little TLC. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

01-07-2004, 07:33 PM	#14
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	I have a 3 lb. "TLC" that often needs to be used on my truck. Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado Last edited by Slonaker; 01-07-2004 at 07:37 PM.

01-07-2004, 08:38 PM	#15
allthrtl Available for Adoption Join Date: May 2003 Location: Lubbock Tx Posts: 177	Nothing like 3lbs of PURE LOVE...... __________________ 1983 C10 SWB 2001 Silverado SWB 1995 Corvette

01-07-2004, 10:58 PM	#16
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Apply heat so it wont break



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01-08-2004, 02:04 AM	#18
Senor_paco Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 441	Yuo know, I had the same prob, but i just ordered the Russell braided hose set (all 3 ) from Jegs for about $90. They worked better than the rubber, feeling so much better, but the main reason i got them was when i asked my dad (He bought it new in '77) when the hoses were replaced, he said "the what?". 'Nuff said.

01-09-2004, 09:35 PM	#19
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Well i assumed They would Bleed The Brakes And since there didnt seem to be anyway to have it held under the truck perhaps they could remove it and put it in a vise ever thought of that?> The metal part of those brake lines are kinda crappy when they get bent they tend to kink

01-10-2004, 12:25 AM	#21
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	It looks like mine will need to be bent quite a bit.. It is a real PIA to remove (It is new, I know how much work it is...) so I plan to bend it while it is hooked up. I'll just take my chances with it tomorrow, and see what happens. Oh, and be nice, Jeremy... Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

01-10-2004, 03:36 AM	#22
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	not trying to be mean, but not all of us think on the same level. just trying to make sure that someone doesnt do something that is going to adversely affect their truck, especially when it involves the brake system. not only could that mess them up, that could mess me up too.

01-10-2004, 05:37 AM	#23
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	I dont see any reason to get so derogitive over it . I was just tryin to Give the advice Of heating the part so it doesnt fattigue and break off I assumed Common Sense Would Come Into Play

02-20-2015, 03:59 PM	#24
Ohchiiit Registered User Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Huntsville Posts: 72	Re: Drop spindle/brake line problem Bringing this post back to life! I myself am having the same issue. What was ever done to fix this problem? I see this was originally from 2004 but still hoping for some help

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