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Old 10-16-2004, 10:03 PM   #1
glock35ipsc
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One solution for low hanging exhaust

I just couldn't leave well enough alone!! I was ready to pull the frame outside to degrease before taking to the sandblasters, and thought I would try to do something about the low hanging exhaust problem.

I want this truck to sit lower than it did before getting munched. But, the way the exhaust had to pass under the middle crossmember (the one the carrier bearing mounts in), I didn't want to go much lower.

So, here is what I did. I think it should work OK. Material is 1/4" mild steel.


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Old 10-16-2004, 10:16 PM   #2
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Nice job!What size pipe you runnin?
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:17 PM   #3
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truely trick
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:24 PM   #4
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hey looks good, and kinda familliar
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeoj
Nice job!What size pipe you runnin?
2 1/4"
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1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!!
1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck

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Old 10-16-2004, 10:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67cst
hey looks good, and kinda familliar
GMTA!!!
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Old 10-16-2004, 11:55 PM   #7
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Where did you find flat washers that big???
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Old 10-17-2004, 12:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed455
Where did you find flat washers that big???
They are not washers, I cut them out of 1/4" plate, then cleaned them up inside and outside on the lathe.
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Old 10-17-2004, 12:25 AM   #9
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That is sweet!!! That's exactly how Chevy did it on 3rd generation Vette's. Monday I pick up a 72 Blazer that I'm turning into a 2wd. I want to run my exhaust the same way. Looks great!
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Old 10-17-2004, 01:12 AM   #10
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glock35ipsc
I have seen this modification done by several board members and on ECE's website.
I think this is a great idea for routing of the exhaust.
My question is:
Does it interfere with the emergency brake cables as in the original set-up?
When I asked the question of the other folks doing this mod they stated they did not have or need an e-brake.
Cars and trucks have to have a functional e-brake to pass state inspection here in Texas.

Also it appears that you a doing away with the carrier bearing.
Do you have to have a custom drive shaft made if so how much do they usually run?
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Old 10-17-2004, 02:02 AM   #11
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Hutch, I had a one piece drive shaft made for my 67 short fleet this past August. It included the tubing, end yokes, U joints and slip yoke for a turbo 350. All parts were new and the total was $290.00. You may be able to get it done cheaper if you take one in and have it shortened.
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Last edited by gonebad2; 10-17-2004 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 10-17-2004, 02:15 AM   #12
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plasma cutter

What brand plasma cutter do you have ?
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Old 10-17-2004, 04:06 AM   #13
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It does looks kind of familliar..... without the stainless steel clamps.... Great job !!!

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Old 10-17-2004, 04:11 AM   #14
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glock--- GMTA ?
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:03 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glock35ipsc
They are not washers, I cut them out of 1/4" plate, then cleaned them up inside and outside on the lathe.
I realize that, I was joking.
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:26 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed455
I realize that, I was joking.
I actually do have washers bigger than that at work. But the O.D. was too big, they would have hung out past the crossmember at the top and bottom. I had originaly intended to weld these to the inside of the x-member, but would have been too hard to weld.

We make parts for coal mills for power plants, so we make some pretty big stuff! We have some 4" diameter X 24" bolts at work, along with flat washers and nuts!
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Last edited by glock35ipsc; 10-17-2004 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:28 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67cst
glock--- GMTA ?
Great Minds Think Alike :p
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutch
glock35ipsc
My question is:
Does it interfere with the emergency brake cables as in the original set-up?

Also it appears that you a doing away with the carrier bearing.
If you look at the pic that shows both holes, you can see the holes for the e-brake cable with the grommet in them at the bottom outside of each hole I made. But, since I am going to an automatic, I am still debating the use of the e-brake. I will prpbably end up installing it.

This frame is a 72, and it has a mount for a pillow block type bearing, one that bolts to the bottom of the x-member. My 68 had the type that bolted to a bracket at the top of the x-member and hung down. Since that bearing only has about 200 miles on it, I wanted to remove the old bracket and bearing and use it on this new frame. I may have a one piece made later.
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOOMY
What brand plasma cutter do you have ?
It is a Thermal Dynamics Econo Pac 50, great machine!
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1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!!
1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck

LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here!
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Old 10-17-2004, 01:41 PM   #20
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ahh yes! makes sense now LOL
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Old 10-17-2004, 03:14 PM   #21
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doesn't someone like Brothers, ECE or similar company make a replacement bolt in piece with this design?
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Old 10-17-2004, 03:38 PM   #22
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That is slick ... I guess the lowest part of the frame would be the carrier bearing mount??? Good idea for getting it down lower.....
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Old 10-17-2004, 07:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstGen
doesn't someone like Brothers, ECE or similar company make a replacement bolt in piece with this design?
Early Classics has the replacement crossmember w/exhaust holes. It offers more clearance @ the top of the driveshaft hole & is level w/the bottom of the frame vs. how the stock c.member drops about 1.5" in the center.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:02 PM   #24
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Hutch, I had Ft Worth Gear and Axle build me a 1 piece driveshaft for my truck. It was 200 bucks, total including a new Th400 yoke, U joints, shiny paint, everything.
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