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Old 01-03-2021, 02:11 AM   #1
68ls1
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Primary Power busbar for upgrades

So I am currently doing upgrades to my 72 C10, with a Holley Terminator Fuel Injection is first, then electric fans and Vintage air to follow. I believe these will all require a direct primary power feed. The pick up already has headlight wiring upgrade that has a direct feed from battery. If I have this correct I need a minimum of 4 primary feed sources, and was thinking of using the Bussmann LMI series, https://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...ries/index.htm to try and keep as tidy and effective as possible.

I am not very versed in auto electrics, so wondering if I am on the right track? Is there a better solution. How best to handle relays? Are there other items that will benefit from a direct power source, eg: fuel pump (Boyd Welding Aeromotive Stealth 340 In-Tank pump).

thanks Roger
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Old 01-03-2021, 08:32 AM   #2
Dead Parrot
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Re: Primary Power busbar for upgrades

This is my usual recommendation. This comes out of a 90's era GM truck. GMT400 series? Around here $5~10 in a Pull-a-Part with the wires included. Advantage of this is the factory fusible links are already installed on the wires. The large coiled red wire is the alternator feed. If you haven't already, a larger alternator is in your future if you go through with your planned electrical additions.

There similar new solutions like your Eaton product if you can't find a yard pull. Be sure to allow for fuses or fusible links to keep a small electrical problem from becoming a 'replace the truck due to fire' problem.
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Old 01-03-2021, 08:53 AM   #3
68ls1
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Re: Primary Power busbar for upgrades

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Originally Posted by Dead Parrot View Post
This is my usual recommendation. This comes out of a 90's era GM truck. GMT400 series? Around here $5~10 in a Pull-a-Part with the wires included. Advantage of this is the factory fusible links are already installed on the wires. The large coiled red wire is the alternator feed. If you haven't already, a larger alternator is in your future if you go through with your planned electrical additions.

There similar new solutions like your Eaton product if you can't find a yard pull. Be sure to allow for fuses or fusible links to keep a small electrical problem from becoming a 'replace the truck due to fire' problem.
Great info, but wishing I was in the USA, sorry lI should have made it clear I'm located down under. We are aware we just have to spend what it takes to get what we need. What I try to avoid is doing it twice. Truck in question

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Old 01-03-2021, 01:40 PM   #4
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Re: Primary Power busbar for upgrades

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Great info, but wishing I was in the USA, sorry lI should have made it clear I'm located down under. ....
Attachment 2071521
I figured that out from your location info. Always the chance you had a salvage yard close enough to be worthwhile or knew where a dead GMT-400 series truck was sitting. I think something similar is available new from Summit or Jegs but it won't include the OEM wires and fusible links.

Nice looking truck.
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Old 01-03-2021, 03:02 PM   #5
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Re: Primary Power busbar for upgrades

.

I went with this one. Fed it with 4 AWG from the Alt and connected it to the BAT with 4 AWG then connected everything to it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qdb-568102



-klb
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Old 01-03-2021, 08:44 PM   #6
Andy4639
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Talking Re: Primary Power busbar for upgrades

Nice ride you have sir! I just picked up one of the bus bars a few weeks ago out of the local yard. I didn't think about the wires. I cut them all off to make it easy to pull. Dang Now I need to go back and find another one!
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Old 01-10-2021, 10:11 PM   #7
duramax55
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Re: Primary Power busbar for upgrades

dead parrot do you know the rating on these . They are like a fuse but no markings on them except numbers . I have a bunch of them so would be nice to know
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Old 01-11-2021, 06:34 PM   #8
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Re: Primary Power busbar for upgrades

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dead parrot do you know the rating on these . They are like a fuse but no markings on them except numbers . I have a bunch of them so would be nice to know
Amp rating for fusible links is hard to find. The general rule is the link is 4 gauge number sizes smaller then the wire it is protecting. So a 10 gauge wire is protected by a 14 gauge link. To further complicate things, links are often in metric (mm) sizes which you have to convert to the matching wire gauge size.

On my salvage finds, unless the use is obvious, like the alternator wire in the pic, I try to match the copper wire size to what the gizmo I am running power for recommends and then the OEM link should be the proper size.
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