Body Bushings Question

[truckster]

After 7 years, I'm finally getting back to my Blazer. The engine is in and I'm got a wiring harness to install, and after that the front clip.

When I got the Blazer it came with a 2" body lift. I'd like to return it to stock height (I'm running 12.5x33 BFGs), and then if I want a lift I'll go with a suspension lift. So my questions:

How difficult is it to replace the body bushings? Can I just jack up the tub and replace the bushings, or do I need to remove the tub to do it?

Rubber or polyurethane? I've heard arguments for both, but what's your experience?

And, last, who has a good kit that's going to go in right, last a long time, and won't cost an arm and a leg?

Thanks for your help!

[SeventyOne]

unbolt, jack up, replace bushings, one side at a time. Just go slow while jacking it up to check for wiring, linkages, fuel/brake lines so you dont break anything.

Go with rubber from ClassicHeartbeat. Poly might last forever but the ride is going to be stiffer and I've heard some have issues with panel alignment.

[lks dcvn]

[truckster]

I just placed an order with Wes. Thanks for your input.

[SeventyOne]

One thing to think about is your body bolts. A few will be tack welded to the floor pan. Either you can let them be if theyre not all corroded, or you can grind off the weld and replace the bolts. You'll get new bolts from Wes at ClassicHeartbeat either way.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

One thing to think about is your body bolts. A few will be tack welded to the floor pan. Either you can let them be if theyre not all corroded, or you can grind off the weld and replace the bolts. You'll get new bolts from Wes at ClassicHeartbeat either way.

I'll replace them all. It's not too hard to grind a tack weld. Thanks.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by truckster

I'll replace them all. It's not too hard to grind a tack weld. Thanks.

Agreed - didnt know if you had the whole interior in place or anything. Though I will say the two bolts by the A pillar are kind of a pain to get out due to the recess in the floor pan.

[litebulblsc]

If it has a body lift, the original bolts have already been replaced. Hopefully the p.o. did not weld the new ones in and got all trigger happy.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by litebulblsc

If it has a body lift, the original bolts have already been replaced. Hopefully the p.o. did not weld the new ones in and got all trigger happy.

Excellent point! Yeah i hope the OP has an easy install.

[truckster]

I'll hit all the hardware with Liquid Wrench tomorrow, and I have a nice DeWalt 20V impact that tends to convince nuts and bolts to bend to my will. Failing that, I have a sawzall and an angle grinder, and if I get really desperate, the plasma cutter...

It's been over seven years since my Blazer threw a rod through the block. I got ambitious and started tearing of the entire front end. Then I retired from the Army, started a new job, had to deal with cancer... you know, life. It's exciting to be getting back to it.

[Thegoose74]

One more thing that hasn’t been mentioned is put the top on if it’s not already

[Skymortar]

I'm pretty sure wes guarantees those mounts for life also. Good choice

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Thegoose74

One more thing that hasn’t been mentioned is put the top on if it’s not already

Yes, the top is on. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Skymortar

I'm pretty sure wes guarantees those mounts for life also. Good choice

He does. It's a really good deal.

[elkniks]

I did mine about 20 years ago with Energy Suspension polyurethane. And yes, it was a major P.I.T.A. to shim them for door/cowl alignment. The only problem I have had is that the radiator support bushings cracked (I am pretty sure I over tightened them). I called Energy Suspension a couple of years ago when I found the cracked ones, they don't sell them individually but the guys at Energy Suspension sent me two new ones for free. Other than that, i have had no issues.

I am just adding this in case someone thinking about poly bushings reads this thread.

[truckster]

I got one side off today and started cleaning up the frame rail. They had an interesting way of doing the body lift. There were these spacers that look like a piece of tube with washers welded on each end, and they used all-thread for the bolts. I guess that's good, because there were hex nuts at both ends. I only had to use the angle grinder to cut one, and that was because it was just too long to pull out.

[SeventyOne]

nice - you'll be safer now with that stuff in that trash

[truckster]

I got more done today. The right side frame rail is primered and painted, and the body bushings are in. You can see in the pictures the difference in ride height. The first pic is with the old bushings and spacers.

I discovered that the tailgate wouldn't open once I lowered the body onto the new bushings. Apparently it was installed after the body lift. That started a 2-hour fight to get it off, since it was welded to the frame.

I got the driver's side bushings out today and started wire brushing the frame. Tomorrow I'll primer and paint and finish the bushings. Then it's on to the wiring harness.

I think I'm really going to like the new ride height. My wife will like it even more.

[SeventyOne]

whoa how tall were the body lift pucks? looking at your tape measure looks like you lost 5" in height!

[truckster]

They were 3 1/2 inches. There's some lean in the pictures, since I had only done one side when I took them. Still, it's a huge difference.

[truckster]

I finished painting and got the bushings installed today. Although it's not on the road yet, it already feels a lot more solid.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by truckster

I finished painting and got the bushings installed today. Although it's not on the road yet, it already feels a lot more solid.

Pics of the new stance!

[truckster]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Pics of the new stance!

No front clip yet, but I think I'm going to like this ride height.

And the bushings from Wes are perfect.