Body/top alignment/repair sequence advice?

[Tumbleweed1C4]

My Blazer is missing the Torsion boxes, and I have to repair the floor and rockers too. I went ahead and ordered the parts for the passenger side, and attempted to get body mount set from GMC Paul, (which they do not carry anymore btw). I think my tub alignment is being held in place by a six point rollcage put in by PO, and I want to remove it. I can't replace the body mounts or rebuild the torsion boxes without removing it. I tried to put the hardtop on to hold the pillar alignment in preparation for tackling this mess, but its been off for awhile and bolt holes do not line up. bed rail bolt holes are about 1/4-1/2 forward of single wall top holes when the top is bolted in place at the windshield. Any tips on how to fix this? My doors are not in alignment to begin with, so how worried do I need to be about things moving if they are not in alignment to begin with? I am not even sure I am not going to take the bedsides off to repair rust in floor at back corners. Should I repair floor and rockers and get all that aligned before removing bedsides? Anything I can do while I wait to get a set of body mounts?
The pics show condition of body mounts, the rollbar attachment to floor, and the relationship of hardtop to bedsides right now.

[A1971Blazer]

The front cowl and windshield frame section have moved, probably due to missing rocker boxes and other rust damage. That structure, along with the front fenders/radiator support is what helps keep it in alignment when the top is off.

The design of these things depended largely on the top to aid structural alignment.

You will need to get the cowl back into place before doing any welding/repair. If not, nothing will line up properly.

You will probably need to remove that roll cage and attach some kind of door bracing to get the cowl back into alignment.

[notsolo]

Also the roll cage maybe holding it in the wrong position, you have an extra spacer in you door latch. How are the door gaps? I think 3/16" is what they are supposed to be.

[69-72]

If all the body mounts look that nice you can use the existing ones and replace them later if you want. I wouldnt be too worried about removing the roll cage.

I made a body using a pickup cab with the roof removed, attached that to a truck bedfloor that I sectioned to shorten it. My point is it all bolts together and it worked out for me using body panels I essentially made.

The body is shimmed at the body mounts to make adjustments so doors fit etc.

I would say take it all apart, it will be easiest to install the rocker boxes and do all the rust repairs that you dont even know about that way.

[Tumbleweed1C4]

notsolo, my door gaps are all messed up, and don't even make sense for what is happening with the top. They are off vertically as well, because the PO put the rocker covers too high. I don't have any perfect alignment to save, that is kind of why I am kind of inclined to go with 69-72s advice and take it apart and rebuild it. I am just terrified of doing it.

69-72 that is incredibly ambitious and looks great. A lot of work, but it sure seems like a great way to get in there and make everything right. I at least have the tub and pretty good rear floor to start with but would sure like to take it apart and get it cleaned up and do the frame. I don't have a rotisserie, so taking off the bedsides off and removing the floor seems like a good opportunity to take care of those pieces and rebuild the torsion boxes and b-pillars. I am missing all of the reinforcement structure. Just hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew when it comes time to get everything lined back up.

[69-72]

The rotisserie came after everything was put all back together. It is great for getting the underside painted and little bits of metal work here and there but the body needs to be on the frame when you are bolting all the panels together.

[Tumbleweed1C4]

69-72 I recognize that picture of your tub when you were responding to my thread to show what the torsion box area should look like. What did you paint that with, is that the end result? Looks really great.

[mcmlxix]

I got a set of body mounts from Energy Suspension. There is a debate on rubber vs poly, but I figured its a truck and its going to ride rough and make noise anyway.


This is my logic...
I would remove the cage and then the body. Check the body for prior damage or repair. Next, make sure the frame is straight and true. (put it on a frame table/machine at a collision shop if you want to go the extra mile.) From there, use the new body mounts to reinstall the body. Then bolt the hard top back on. This is where you my need to pull or stretch the windshield frame. I saw where someone use ratchet straps to pull it into alignment. Once the doors and hard top all meet reasonably well, tack weld in some bracing so you can cut out the rust that needs to be replaced.

[72gmcshorty]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

This is my logic...
I would remove the cage and then the body. Check the body for prior damage or repair. Next, make sure the frame is straight and true. (put it on a frame table/machine at a collision shop if you want to go the extra mile.) From there, use the new body mounts to reinstall the body. Then bolt the hard top back on. This is where you my need to pull or stretch the windshield frame. I saw where someone use ratchet straps to pull it into alignment. Once the doors and hard top all meet reasonably well, tack weld in some bracing so you can cut out the rust that needs to be replaced.

This is great advice. I did not do this and my door gap is now messed up. How can I make sure my frame is straight and true?

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by 72gmcshorty

This is great advice. I did not do this and my door gap is now messed up. How can I make sure my frame is straight and true?

Find a factory frame diagram and check measurements. The frame needs to be off the wheels and then leveled side to side, back to front, usually on jack stands. Just make sure the floor is level too as that can throw off everything.

[69-72]

Originally Posted by 72gmcshorty

This is great advice. I did not do this and my door gap is now messed up. How can I make sure my frame is straight and true?

Have you tried shimming the body mounts to adjust the door gap?

[69-72]

Originally Posted by Tumbleweed1C4

69-72 I recognize that picture of your tub when you were responding to my thread to show what the torsion box area should look like. What did you paint that with, is that the end result? Looks really great.

Raptor liner. I don't think it will do much as far as sound deadening but it should prevent against rust.