Need dimensions to shorten my box

[cdngearhead]

Gonna shorten my box before snow,

Can't find a thread with dimensions

[CG]

I went to the google search box at the top of the page. Clicked the button 67-72chevytrucks.com and typed in long box to short box. Many pages came up with threads on this. Of course not all were pertinent to what you are looking for, but many were.

[cdngearhead]

I did that too,
Lots of pics but no real hard numbers,
Will try again.

Monroe! Ya almost forgot, I need a good swapmeet fix.

[CG]

Cool beans, make sure you stop in around lunch time and have some grub! Mike is a heck of a BBQ guy =)

[AussieinNC]

I have just received my two new short bedsides for my 68 from LMC...

They weren't cheap, but seriously, even if you work out your own labor costs at ten bucks an hour, I just couldn't see me wasting 100 hours on cutting down the long bedsides...then doing them myself. 100 hours is too much...maybe, but I am an old man and very particular.

Plus the replacement bottom flanges...etc etc...

google "cut dimensions Chevy pickup 1970 long bed to short bed"...I believe there are two cuts, one front and one rear of the wheel well...

there is a total of 18" difference between short bed at 82" to the long bed at 100"...

Are you doing a wood bed or steel bed? You do know the front panels are different wood to steel, along with the rear bed cross member wood to steel...

Have fun...

[tutone]

Look in my build thread or if you have a steel floor , look in 67chevyredneck's thread. You need to take 12 inches out out of the front and 8 inces behind the wheelwell. You also need to address the filling of the middle stake pockets and the scallop in front of the wheel well on a 68 thru 72 long bed. The 67 has the correct slope. Also important is where u make your cuts to retain your new cross brace pattern. Theres alot more to it than just this but more advice is coming, im sure.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by tutone

Look in my build thread or if you have a steel floor , look in 67chevyredneck's thread. You need to take 12 inches out out of the front and 8 inces behind the wheelwell. You also need to address the filling of the middle stake pockets and the scallop in front of the wheel well on a 68 thru 72 long bed. The 67 has the correct slope. Also important is where u make your cuts to retain your new cross brace pattern. Theres alot more to it than just this but more advice is coming, im sure.

So your saying a 67 long bed has the correct contour front of the lower wheel well?

[tutone]

yes. I will post a picture here. You can roll out a piece on a bead roller, and fabricate the contour piece, but its a pain to get it perfect as that is not a good place for filler. One trick for the later models is to cut the rear corner off the left side [ of another bed of course]and vice versa on the other one and use you hammer and dolly skills to build the correct slope and curve. It can be done several different ways. I would disassemble a bed completely were it steel to avoid all the cutting and welding. Other threads here to show you how to replicate the rear tipping of the sheet metal. Also on a 71-72 on the drivers side rear of the bed floor there is a rib missing behind the wheel tub. Just threw that one in there to be correct. The answer to your question is yes, the 67 long and short are the same contour, plus no marker lights to mess with.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by tutone

yes. I will post a picture here. You can roll out a piece on a bead roller, and fabricate the contour piece, but its a pain to get it perfect as that is not a good place for filler. One trick for the later models is to cut the rear corner off the left side and vice versa on the other one and use you hammer and dolly skills to build the correct slope and curve. It can be done several different ways. I would disassemble a bed completely were it steel to avoid all the cutting and welding. Other threads here to show you how to replicate the rear tipping of the sheet metal. Also on a 71-72 on the drivers side rear of the bed floor there is a rib missing behind the wheel tub. Just threw that one in there to be correct. The answer to your question is yes, the 67 long and short are the same contour, plus no marker lights to mess with.

Thanks for the pics, learned something new on the 67 beds....

[CG]

Originally Posted by tutone

Look in my build thread or if you have a steel floor , look in 67chevyredneck's thread. You need to take 12 inches out out of the front and 8 inces behind the wheelwell. You also need to address the filling of the middle stake pockets and the scallop in front of the wheel well on a 68 thru 72 long bed. The 67 has the correct slope. Also important is where u make your cuts to retain your new cross brace pattern. Theres alot more to it than just this but more advice is coming, im sure.

Even though I am purging most of my stuff this is the only reason I'm hanging on to my extra 67 long box. It will be disassembled for easier storage. Chances are slim to none Ill never use it. But ... you never know haha!

[tutone]

Originally Posted by CG

Even though I am purging most of my stuff this is the only reason I'm hanging on to my extra 67 long box. It will be disassembled for easier storage. Chances are slim to none Ill never use it. But ... you never know haha!

Yes , the 67 is the bed of choice to shorten, I have a frame in the on deck circle and when I can find a cherry 71 or 72 long bed, I'm going to cut it down and take lots of good pictures. The OP is right, it is easy to get caught up in the task and forget to show pics of all the little tricks. The thing is, though it seems daunting, it is only about a 4 hour job each side for a bare side from uncut to tacked. One of the best tricks that I have learned, is how to get the inner panel cut so you have the correct gap. It is really simple. After you're outer skin cuts, you simply lay your bedside on the floor and level it and take a small plumb bob and drape it over the edge of each side and take a sharpie and mark it. Take a piece of tape and tape your marks on the cutoff side and spray you some contrasting paint in the area you are gonna leave. Remove your tape and there is your cut mark. Here is a picture. I hope this helps you.