Best Place to Put Jack/Stands

[pbajwabb]

I am doing brakes today and have never put the truck up, where is the best place to put the jack and stands? I think where I am at is good but I want to make sure it is before I take the wheels off the ground an inch or 2.

[pbajwabb]

The photo is taken from the front passenger side

[Tx Firefighter]

That picture isn't clear, but it looks like the jack stand is under the part of the frame that is angled upward. You never, ever want that. Only under the flat part of the frame. The stand could slide up the frame otherwise.

Personally, I usually put my jack stands under the lower control arm cross shafts or up in the notch in the lower control arms outboard of the coil spring pockets.

[geezer#99]

I agree!
Put the stand on a flat surface not to far back or like Tx suggests.
Once it's set up then get real aggresive and shake the crap outta of it to make sure it's solid.
And place your spare somewhere under the truck in case you get a jack stand slip or fail.
BTW that style of jackstand is prone to crack and split right down the crease on the side.

[Sillyoldman]

Ditto on the outer coil pockets.

[pbajwabb]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That picture isn't clear, but it looks like the jack stand is under the part of the frame that is angled upward. You never, ever want that. Only under the flat part of the frame. The stand could slide up the frame otherwise.

Personally, I usually put my jack stands under the lower control arm cross shafts or up in the notch in the lower control arms outboard of the coil spring pockets.

Thank you for the tip but I am not really sure where that is your talking about. Yes the photo is somewhat confusing but it would be on the flat part behind that angle.

I don't have anything else as far as stands go but I am not going under the car, I am just going to be servicing the brakes.

Im going to make a 2x4 "log cabin" to put under the rotor, leave the jack stand and also put a little pressure on the frame with the actual hyrdraulic jack just in case.

[GASoline71]

No need to put anything under the rotor if your putting jack stands under the frame or under the A-arm. Just let it hang. If you're just putting pads on and not having the rotor resurfaced or "turned" at a machine shop... you'll be putting new pads on again real soon, as the ones you're installing now will glaze over.

Gary

[fast&low]

And just to be safe put your wheels & tires under the frame too!!!
You don't want to lay the frame without airbags

[pbajwabb]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

No need to put anything under the rotor if your putting jack stands under the frame or under the A-arm. Just let it hang. If you're just putting pads on and not having the rotor resurfaced or "turned" at a machine shop... you'll be putting new pads on again real soon, as the ones you're installing now will glaze over.

Gary

i just picked up some new shoes, why would I need to turn the rotors?

[GASoline71]

So are you doing shoes and drums? Or discs and rotors?

If you're putting new shoes on... then you'll need to have the drums turned as well. The hub can hang there.

Gary

[pbajwabb]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

So are you doing shoes and drums? Or discs and rotors?

If you're putting new shoes on... then you'll need to have the drums turned as well. The hub can hang there.

Gary

I am pretty new to this, I was told that I just needed to get some new drum shoes and install them.

Is it more than just replacing them?

I know disk brakes are usually just replacing 2 pads and its done - is this not the case here?

[litew8]

http://www.raceshopper.com/how_to_install_brakes.shtml

[litew8]

If you plan on using the old existing rotors, you should at least check that they are true and not warped. Warped rotors will wear the pads premature. If they are groved from wear, then having them turned would be worth it. Sometimes it is better to invest in new.

[fast&low]

If the surface of the drum is smooth just do the shoes you'll be okay there's still people out there that think that you should still turn rotors & drums every time you do breaks.
The thing is catch your brakes before you are metal to metal so you will always have a smooth surface.
Every time you turn your rotors it makes them thiner & more prone to warping.

[litew8]

You could use some garnet paper to clean them up some if you care

[pbajwabb]

Originally Posted by litew8

If you plan on using the old existing rotors, you should at least check that they are true and not warped. Warped rotors will wear the pads premature. If they are groved from wear, then having them turned would be worth it. Sometimes it is better to invest in new.

Originally Posted by fast&low

If the surface of the drum is smooth just do the shoes you'll be okay there's still people out there that think that you should still turn rotors & drums every time you do breaks.
The thing is catch your brakes before you are metal to metal so you will always have a smooth surface.
Every time you turn your rotors it makes them thiner & more prone to warping.

Thanks guys, I have never turned the drums on my vws, just cleaned them up and used emery cloth/ 1000 grit sandpaper before putting on new shoes.

I plan on doing the same here unless it is pitted or warped as mentioned previously.

I dont even know of a shop that turns drums around here, it would probably just be cheaper to pick up new drums for $100

[Cape Codder]

I actually scratch the surface up with some 80 grit paper so the new pads,shoes seat better. If your rotors are warped you should feel them thumping before the pad change anyway. In this part of the country rust is usually the deciding factor for additional parts changing. If the cooling fins between the rotor surfaces look rusty change them as they do break.

[fast&low]

You are right & if they were warped you would've known before even doing the pad swap.
It was the mid 90's the last time I turned rotors & I work for Goodyear

[litew8]

Not if it's never been driven. Don't know the history here.

[fast&low]

Well slap shoes on it and drive it

[Cape Codder]

Now a days it comes to economics when going to a shop for brake work. It takes a tech about 20 minutes each to turn a rotor or drum @ 100.00 per hr. for labor rates it isn't much more to replace with new. The shop makes a markup on the parts and turnover time to the next job is quicker.

[fast&low]

Two things worried me about what you just said?
You go to a shop that's labor rate is 100 an hour
& also one that still turns rotors
Call around your area every shop has different labor rates in order to stay competitive.
The only thing that stays the same is they all use the same labor book that tells them what they can legally charge for a job
Depending on year and make of the car the book tells you how much time to charge for the job.
Whether it be a starter,alternator or breaks so if they tell you there charging you an hour and a half to do your alternator there not telling you that's how long it will take them there telling you how much that job charges & not you or they have any control over that
That is what the book calls for the only control you have is how much labor rate you are willing to pay.
So start calling around and ask for their labor rate before letting them work on your car

[jocko]

- Put your jack stand preferably a little further aft - it's too close to the angle.
- Do NOT put light pressure on the frame with a jack also - the pressure should be on the stand, zero on the jack. If you MUST put the jack under, just barely kiss the frame.
- Do what geezer and fastnlow suggest, lay your tires on their sides, and shove them under a frame rail just in case - will limit the fall if there is one.

- I STILL don't know if you're working on drums or disk brakes. For terminology's sake...
Drum brakes use shoes against the inner curved part of a drum as the friction surface.
Disk brakes use pads against the flat faces of a rotor as the friction surface.

Generally speaking, you should have a drum or rotor turned (re-surfaced) when you change pads. If you do some of the anti-glazing tricks mentioned above, could probably do it every other time. Anyway, if you don't know, then turn them. It will be cheaper to turn what you have than to buy new. Take them to any shop capable of doing brakes. They'll tell you if they can legally be turned or not (they will mic the thickness of the rotor or the inner diameter of a drum. Then you may have to buy new anyway. Personally, I always use all I can of the drum/rotor - that's why they have extra material, to be used.

If you post a pic, it will go a long way toward folks helping you out.

No worries all the questions, we've all asked them at one time or another. Keep asking.

[67ChevyRedneck]

My local oreillys does car rotors for $10 each and truck for $15. Where are these crazy #s coming from?

When you buy new rotors you should use new bearings too... That could be another $30+ per side.

[fast&low]

Guys not trying to disrespect anybody or get into an argument but if you notice when you buy a new vehicle the rotors won't warp till after a couple of brake jobs.
Reason being the rotors are still thick so when they get used over time they thin out & after you get your rotors hot & drive in the rain or high water and get the rotors wet that causes them to warp.
So turning the rotors is only fixing the problem for a short amount of time.
If they warped once they will warp again I guarantee you that.