How do my brake line flares look to you

[slammed57]

Give me your honest opinion. Open to any advice if they can be better these are Nicopp line. Also getting ready to order fittings, is it 3/8-24 for 3/16 that I need and which is better for fittings brass or stainless. Seams like when I order items like this I always get it wrong

[mongocanfly]

looks good...but you can get several different thread sizes for the same size line..need to determine what your threading it into and go from there

[KMC3420]

3/8-24 is the most common but as mongo states the T, soft line, caliper, or M/C you are routing to will determine the size fitting you will need. What tool are you using to flare with? How prominent are the marks left by your flaring tool? Does your tube nut slide over the marks without any resistance? The flares look good, but checking for leaks will be the real test. I purchased a short piece of NiCopp from Oreillys to compare the flares I was making to that of a likely machined flare. I used steel fittings that were zinc coated. I plan on using a dab of anti seize on the tube nut threads as well as on the shoulder of the flare where the tube nut makes contact with the flare. This is all new for me as well, but my flares looked just like the piece I purchased from oreillys.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

3/8-24 is the most common but as mongo states the T, soft line, caliper, or M/C you are routing to will determine the size fitting you will need. What tool are you using to flare with? How prominent are the marks left by your flaring tool? Does your tube nut slide over the marks without any resistance? The flares look good, but checking for leaks will be the real test. I purchased a short piece of NiCopp from Oreillys to compare the flares I was making to that of a likely machined flare. I used steel fittings that were zinc coated. I plan on using a dab of anti seize on the tube nut threads as well as on the shoulder of the flare where the tube nut makes contact with the flare. This is all new for me as well, but my flares looked just like the piece I purchased from oreillys.

Hey KMC, ( much thanks to the thread you started, i used a lot of the info from it) i was just practicing my flares so I didnt try putting on the tube nut, as for the tool I am using the oem 24364 model which works very well , as for the marks it leave round lines inside sorta like a lapping tool . Iam just wondering if when doing the 2nd flare( double flare )how far do i tighten it with the oem tool, is it possible to over tighten

the oem tool is a 2 step process.... the 1 st process uses a die then take the die out and then tighten it down again with the screw which is the a die in itself that forms the double flare

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

looks good...but you can get several different thread sizes for the same size line..need to determine what your threading it into and go from there

thanks greg I appreciate it

[mongocanfly]

I have one of eastwoods flare tools..https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...SABEgIlU_D_BwE
its a great flare tool..it doesn't leave rings on the tube like your seeing

[v30crewcab]

don't smash them down so far, and they will seal better.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Hey KMC, ( much thanks to the thread you started, i used a lot of the info from it) i was just practicing my flares so I didnt try putting on the tube nut, as for the tool I am using the oem 24364 model which works very well , as for the marks it leave round lines inside sorta like a lapping tool . Iam just wondering if when doing the 2nd flare( double flare )how far do i tighten it with the oem tool, is it possible to over tighten

the oem tool is a 2 step process.... the 1 st process uses a die then take the die out and then tighten it down again with the screw which is the a die in itself that forms the double flare

The tool I am using is similar. It has two sides that sandwich the tube to hold it in place. It also has a tubing depth stop that ensures the tube is in the correct spot to begin the flaring process, it’s also a 2 step tool. It came with a small container of grease to lube the die with each time. This is the Tool I’m using. I am very happy with the results. With this tool you tighten it until it bottoms out, so you can’t really over tighten it, thankfully. Here is a practice flare, this is almost identical to the flare from Oreillys. I also bought this Tool to chamfer the outside of the tube as well as clean the inside after cutting with my tubing cutter. Hope the pictures help.

[slammed57]

Yours look real nice! You got me intrigued so I went outside and played with it more. I believe I was tightening it up on the second die to much. ( see pic below) I choked up on the wrench so I wouldn’t have so much leverage. I may try just for the fun of it and try the torque wrench to see if I can make all the flares consistent. Also the flare kit came with a 3/16 die and a 4.75mm die which is the correct one to use?

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Yours look real nice! You got me intrigued so I went outside and played with it more. I believe I was tightening it up on the second die to much. ( see pic below) I choked up on the wrench so I wouldn’t have so much leverage. I may try just for the fun of it and try the torque wrench to see if I can make all the flares consistent. Also the flare kit came with a 3/16 die and a 4.75mm die which is the correct one to use?

The newer flare looks a lot better. The first flare was almost like a bowl. I would say if you can’t get the torque wrench to work out how you want it to. Possibly stack washers on the threads of your tool to create a stop that will be in the same location every time. I would use the 3/16 die as it’s 3/16 line.

[KMC3420]

Here are pictures of the flare from Oreillys. I am assuming this flare was made by machine or a process that was able to duplicate results very closely. I hope I’m not muddying the waters of your thread as this is focused on your flares and not mine. Hopefully a collective effort!

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

The newer flare looks a lot better. The first flare was almost like a bowl. I would say if you can’t get the torque wrench to work out how you want it to. Possibly stack washers on the threads of your tool to create a stop that will be in the same location every time. I would use the 3/16 die as it’s 3/16 line.

Thanks kmc I appeciate it, we'll see how it goes, let me know how it goes for you

[LS short box]

I also have the Eastwood flare tool shown above. Works great.
Another thing to consider for a good flare is line prep before flaring. Make sure the end of the tube is "square" after you cut it to length. I typically use a very fine tooth hack saw blade. Tubing cutter have a tendency to squish the tube as you cut it off. Then after the cut deburr the inside of the tube. I like using a #3 center drill or a small counter sink bit.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Thanks kmc I appeciate it, we'll see how it goes, let me know how it goes for you

Will do. I’m a ways off from pressuring my brake system, but it will happen at some point. Good luck on yours.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I also have the Eastwood flare tool shown above. Works great.
Another thing to consider for a good flare is line prep before flaring. Make sure the end of the tube is "square" after you cut it to length. I typically use a very fine tooth hack saw blade. Tubing cutter have a tendency to squish the tube as you cut it off. Then after the cut deburr the inside of the tube. I like using a #3 center drill or a small counter sink bit.

These are good tips!