Slick Sand Questions

[Kim57]

I've been using SPI epoxy to prime my cab.
After priming and sanding a couple times I ended up with what you see in the first three pics after sanding with 150 grit. The low spots have sanding scratches in them just not as uniform as the rest
Decided to go with slick sand so I wasn't wasting all the epoxy trying to get it where I want it.
I used a gun with a 2.5 tip and got what's in the next two pics.
It also sprayed more like a spatter instead of a real smooth application.
I know it will all sand out was just wondering if others have had the same experience.
Thanks
Kim

[BigDan3131]

Unless the epoxy your using says it a sandable primer it really isn't supposed to be used like that. As far as Slick Sand goes its a good product but from the what your pictures show it needs more reducer.
What kind of block are you using? I would only use a 16" longboard on the nearly flat areas and on the curves I use a 1 inch thick soft pad that is 4" x 8".

[skip99]

I had some issues with the spi epoxy, so not sure id use it again. Did it spray and sand well for you?
As far as ss , it can be reduced with acetone, pretty sure i had to reduce it also, and you also have to strain it...it gets a little gritty, if you dont.

[MP&C]

Dan, many epoxies are not meant to be sanded, but SPI and House of Kolor are two that I know of that can be sanded. For motorcycle paint jobs I typically don't use high builds, it's all H/K epoxy..


Kim, SS typically doesn't lay flat like a normal paint. It is after all a sprayable body filler. I use the 2.5 also and have seen similar results in surface texture. Block it out, use some thinned SPI as a sealer when blocking is done, and keep gettin' up..

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by BigDan3131

Unless the epoxy your using says it a sandable primer it really isn't supposed to be used like that. As far as Slick Sand goes its a good product but from the what your pictures show it needs more reducer.
What kind of block are you using? I would only use a 16" longboard on the nearly flat areas and on the curves I use a 1 inch thick soft pad that is 4" x 8".

The SPI epoxy sanded real well for me.
I'm using Dura Blocks and like them. Of course I have no experience with anything else.

Originally Posted by skip99

I had some issues with the spi epoxy, so not sure id use it again. Did it spray and sand well for you?
As far as ss , it can be reduced with acetone, pretty sure i had to reduce it also, and you also have to strain it...it gets a little gritty, if you dont.

I really had no problems spraying or sanding the SPI.
I read where you can reduce the SS so I may try that the next time I spray it.
I did strain it into my gun.

Originally Posted by MP&C

Dan, many epoxies are not meant to be sanded, but SPI and House of Kolor are two that I know of that can be sanded. For motorcycle paint jobs I typically don't use high builds, it's all H/K epoxy..


Kim, SS typically doesn't lay flat like a normal paint. It is after all a sprayable body filler. I use the 2.5 also and have seen similar results in surface texture. Block it out, use some thinned SPI as a sealer when blocking is done, and keep gettin' up..

I already blocked what I had on there and I'm pretty happy with the results so far.
I started with 80 grit and worked up to 220.
It sanded pretty easy and didn't clog my paper so I'm encouraged to keep at it.

Thanks for the info guys I do appreciate it.
Kim

[screaminchevypickup]

When spray slick sand I never reduce it!! I use a 2.0 lph300 with the fluid control turned all the way out.. Slow down when your spraying it and put good wet coats on and it will lay down very flat..

[Iceburgh]

Not a fan of Slick Sand but use All-U-Need by Claussen. Similar but bond better over bare metal and sands easier.
I use a 2.0 tip

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by screaminchevypickup

When spray slick sand I never reduce it!! I use a 2.0 lph300 with the fluid control turned all the way out.. Slow down when your spraying it and put good wet coats on and it will lay down very flat..

Thanks for the info.
I probably was going a little fast after being used to how the epoxy went on.

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Not a fan of Slick Sand but use All-U-Need by Claussen. Similar but bond better over bare metal and sands easier.
I use a 2.0 tip

I did a lot of internet searching and found people were happy with the slick sand and found it at a decent price.
As this is my first time doing this I can't compare it to anything so I'm pretty happy with it.
Kim

[BigDan3131]

Originally Posted by MP&C

Dan, many epoxies are not meant to be sanded, but SPI and House of Kolor are two that I know of that can be sanded. For motorcycle paint jobs I typically don't use high builds, it's all H/K epoxy..


Kim, SS typically doesn't lay flat like a normal paint. It is after all a sprayable body filler. I use the 2.5 also and have seen similar results in surface texture. Block it out, use some thinned SPI as a sealer when blocking is done, and keep gettin' up..

and motorcycles shouldn't need high build either and in case you didn't read it carefully I did say SOME aren't meant to be sanded.

[BIGglaSS]

Kim, if you're not already there, join - http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Kim, if you're not already there, join - http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php

Thanks for the link.
Kim