Working on it

[62bagger]

I have been on this site for a while now and I have got some good advice from some of you that are really versed on these trucks. That is a good thing for rookies like me. I bought a 62 project truck about 2 years ago. I thought I could get it finished and on the road quickly. One thing has lead to another and I am still plugging away at it. closer inspection showed me that some things were not ready for the road. Air bags were installed but not finished, no brakes, and Eaton rear end had a problem. I had a 10 bolt and the bolt pattern matched the front. Piece of cake right, quick fix. Someone suggested I notched the frame since I plan to use the air bags to lower the stance. I didn't know enough to leave things alone. I have worked on cars and trucks in the past but never tore any down as far as I have had toto all who have answered go with this one. I will post some picks showing some my progress. Thanks to all who answered my questions.

[62bagger]

Here are a few more photos of the rear end swap

[61K10]

Nice looking tk. Also looks like you have everything under control.

[puff3504]

I've seen rookie mistakes and hackers, but your work looks great. I have a 52 Chevy Rat. I sub framed it with 79 Camaro.

[kdad]

Looks great to me. Keep up the good work.

[62bagger]

Thanks for the encouragement. I will post more pics soon

[62bagger]

I am rebuilding the pedal assembly today and repairing the bracket that the PO has cut out for some reason. I have it back together but I don't know if there should be a pedal stop to keep the pedals from coming too far forward. Does anyone know if I need to make a stop?

[62chevy302]

When you bolt the lower column clamp it will keep them back. The lower column clamp has two rubber pedal stops on it.

Are you going to switch to power brakes?

[62bagger]

Thanks for the information. Yes, I am upgrading to power brakes

[62chevy302]

I would like to know what you are going to do for the hydraulic clutch. Im having trouble deciding what to do for that.

[Captainfab]

Power brakes with a hydraulic clutch is quite simple with my kit.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=362375

[62chevy302]

I would like to lower my pedals like jocko did as i am 6'1". I dont think that is possible using your kit. Maybe if i cut the clutch master "ear" off of your bracket and raise it an inch or two and weld it back on. Plus i will have to make a brake pedal pushrod.

[62bagger]

I am using captain fabs brake and clutch bracket. Slick set up. If you move your pedals lower post a picture. I'm tall and that might work for me as well.

[62bagger]

I was able t make some progress this weekend. I brought the air lines up through the floor and routed to the switches and added air gauges. I also got some sound deadener laid down.

[62chevy302]

Looking good

[62bagger]

OK, Its been a while since I have posted any progress. I am trying to mock up the motor and I am having an issue with the mounts. the PO swapped out the torsion bar front X member for a 63 X member and relocated it forward to center the wheel in the wheel well. I got a set of mounts from POL for a 63-72 and I knew I would have to alter them to make them work. the problem I am having is the motor seems to be about 2+" high and forward. I have a set stock perches but it looks like they might not solve my problem. You can see from the first photo how high the motor sits. I Knew I would have to add a spacer to the top of the frame but I thought the side of the frame would be tight against the mounts. Has any one experienced this issue? Any help would be appreciated.

[Captainfab]

For the '60-'62 trucks I always recommend the '67-'72 small block engine mounting brackets. But since your crossmember is moved forward, you would have to move the engine forward the same amount or else drill some new holes.

I see you have a level on top of the engine. You are not trying to level the engine are you? The engine should be at aprox 3 degrees down to the rear.

[62bagger]

the mounts I am using from performance inline are 63-67. I took the advice and moved the engine forward and it seems better. the only thing that I am not sure about is how far forward the engine sits (see photo). I've been looking for a photo on this site for reference but have not seen one that shows the engine in this position. Ill use Captains advice and drill new mounting holes in the X member back. As far as the engine level, after moving the mounts forward I set the level to 3 degrees towards the rear and it is starting to align up much better. Thanks for your help.

[62bagger]

Well, slow production is now no production for a while. I have retired and the wife and I are moving out of the bay area to Tuolumne County. About 100 miles away. So I will be packing and loading the garage up for the move. The good news is that I get to build a new shop. I will post pics when I get started building. Right now the current garage is so full of boxes and furniture I cant do any work.

[62bagger]

I started working on the engine mock up again after getting settled in the new place. I switched to the 67 to 72 mounts and I needed 3/4" shims on the top of the frame. I have 1 3/4" space from the X member to the bottom of the pan. Does that seem right? At that height the trans touches the top of the tunnel and the engine is at a 7 degree angle. Does the front of the engine sit too high? It seems like it needs to come down about 3/4" to line up correctly.

[Captainfab]

THose engine mount brackets look like they are the '67-'72 I6 brackets which are the same as the '63-'66 brackets for the 230/250I6 and small blocks. What you need are the '67-'72 brackets for the small block. They are shorter and will fit the '60-'62 frame better and with either no spacer on top of the frame or maybe 1/4". A 7* angle on the engine and trans is too much.

[62bagger]

Thanks for that information. I will locate the small block mounts and try again. I will post the results soon.

[PGSigns]

Also remember that the angle is in reference to the frame. So to use an angle finder in the way you are the frame must be completely level. Since you have the POL brackets you could try and cut the 3/4" off the bottom and let the top sit on the frame. If that works the reweld the bottom plate on.
Jimmy

[62bagger]

Thanks Jimmy, I will see if I can cut down the POL brackets and get someone that can weld better than I can to finish the job.
Mike

[slepysal]

Nice job!! I have about 10 years before I can move from the Bay Area.