S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

More pics

[Father&son56project]

A quick (and hopefully easy) question regarding the S10 swap steering hookup. I am trying to connect the base of my S10 column to the steering box, and I have a nice, straight, interference free route between the two points, with the exception of one spot. My power steering pump low pressure fitting is directly in the path of the steering shaft:







I realize that I can route the shaft either under or above that fitting, but that would require another universal joint, along with a heim joint and support bracket to the frame. It would be neater (and far cheaper) to slightly move the power steering pump fitting. Has anyone modified that power steering pump steel tube to point in another direction, and if so, how did you do it? It seems to be permanently affixed where it enters the reservoir, and I know that if I just try to bend it I will end up with a kinked or cracked line. Any advice from the sages?

Stephan

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

I know that if I just try to bend it I will end up with a kinked or cracked line. Any advice from the sages?

Stephan

I have never kinked or cracked the return line moving it slightly out of the way, I cant say you wont either but that is mild steel tube and only needs a bit of tweaking. when I bend a line I usually find a rod of the same diameter to stick in the tube and that keeps kinking to a minimum.

[skymangs]

I hate to tell you this, but the simplest solution is to reposition your Motor to clear!

[Father&son56project]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I hate to tell you this, but the simplest solution is to reposition your Motor to clear!

Haha! Thank god I followed the S10 How To and set that drivetrain off to the passenger side or I would be doing something like that!!!!

Joedoh, thanks for the tip. I will give it a try, and if I botch it I have another pump in my parts Blazer to try it again!

The Fargo I am doing is quite different from the AD trucks, and this column and the brake assembly has been quite a chore. I do however believe I have sorted things out and will update my build once I see if it all works.

Stephan

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

Joedoh, thanks for the tip. I will give it a try, and if I botch it I have another pump in my parts Blazer to try it again!

you wont botch it. that hardline needs to come out all different angles on different engines, I bought a new reservoir once and in the box it tells you to gently reposition the hardline if needed. the reservoir the same part for a bunch of cars and trucks.

it takes longer to get psyched up to do something like this than it does to just do it.

[skymangs]

I have changed my running board bracket design to make it easier for the novice to accomplish. These work for my shorter mounts. For the taller design just make the 1.5” square tubs 3” longer and weld right to the bottom of the frame. This is for the 118” S10 chassis.

[skymangs]

Schematic didn’t post

[skymangs]

good luck buddy!

[joedoh]

do you need to remove the wiring? when I do a truck that has s10 power window and lock harnesses that run into the door, I just cut it at the harness branch and tape it up in the harness.

1996 is a one year only truck the ABS is in the PCM. I dont know if removing it or the wiring causes problems but I do know that its part of the PCM wiring.

[Father&son56project]

Joedoh, removing wires would be nice as space is an issue. Plus routing thin bundles of wire is far easier than routing those anaconda sized bundles that the S10 has under the dash! As for the ABS, its mostly an issue of under hood space due to the shape of the Fargo. I could retain ABS by relocating the module (possibly down under the cab as I am well off the frame). If I knew for certain that the PCM didn’t care, I would just delete the ABS to simplify matters.

Thanks!

Stephan

[joedoh]

I looked at your post, why not mount the ecu horizontally under a battery tray on the pass side?

[Father&son56project]

Joedoh, I am juggling my needs in that spot and trying to figure out the best balance with the least fancy fab work (while considering access for future maintenance and repairs). That spot on the passenger firewall is also the pass-through for the heater lines (which are pretty big and they are what actually hold that old Mopar heater in place), so if I put stuff there I will have to figure out a different system for the heater. I am trying to decide whether or not it’s easier to put the battery under the bed floor (and build a door in the steel bed that lifts up to allow easy battery maintenance or removal), as opposed to trying to shoehorn stuff under the hood. As always I welcome input from those that have actually conquered one of these swaps!

[joedoh]

i get it! its not work when you love doing it, I like the batt under the hood for access and the factory cables, but I am not everyone! under the bed floor will work, its just more work, and you do great work.

[skymangs]

I use an original style, but for 12V from Classic Parts

[skymangs]

Just so you guys know I do sell pre-made cab stands and running Board brackets on eBay. Either includes instructions and schematics for making bed cross sills https://www.ebay.com/itm/133595288748 https://www.ebay.com/itm/133595290636

[skymangs]

I also sell upholster to taste full length door Panel backs https://www.ebay.com/itm/133757204289

[skymangs]

Thanks gigamax

Additionally I have decided against the new running board bracket design and have reverted back to my original design

[skymangs]

bump

[skymangs]

bump

[Father&son56project]

Originally Posted by skymangs

bump

When the "S10 Swap How To" was a sticky, it received an absolute ton of input and views (4th most popular topic according to the view counter). Now it's months between posts, despite the fact that there are many of these swaps going on. I rather enjoyed following it just to see how members were tackling problems on this particular swap. It was also a quick way for newbies to discover this particular wealth of information. To be fair, whenever I ask something in this thread I still get great responses from you and other knowledgeable members. I just miss watching the swap related problem solving of other builders.

[skymangs]

yes, me too. For years this thread was going strong. I’m still doing S10 swaps for customers, in fact I’m doing one right now... https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=824854 if you’re interested

[8man]

I know I learned a LOT from this thread. Enough that I eventually started a thread of the build I am doing with help from this thread and site and all the good people who help out!

[skymangs]

well I’m glad it served it’s purpose

[lgh1157]

I still reference this thread often, its great. . . .

I have a question:
Why move the steering column over to the left ? ( other than centering it in the gauges ) is there another reason other than the gauges ? ?

I mocked up my column today using the upper stock mount and the lower column firewall hole and it seemed great where the stock location is

Thx !