1972 Build thread.

[jaros44sr]

Thanks guys for posting up, good info.

nice sturgeon, green or white?

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks guys for posting up, good info.

nice sturgeon, green or white?

The sturgeon was fun, that was a good day. White if I remember, but it has been a few years and I'm no expert on sturgeon.

[hemi43]

And one more thing I've learned over the years is do not use synthetic gear lube because you will never get rid of the chatter regardless of how many bottles of additive you put in. On my Blazer I tried using Amsoil's synthetic gear lube because they claimed it was compatible. Well, they were wrong because it sounded like the rear diff was going to break in two. I gave it a few weeks hoping the noise would go away, but it never did. I drained it and put in standard gear lube and a couple bottles of GM limited slip additive, and the problem went away. That was an expensive mistake because Amsoil products aren't cheap.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by hemi43

And one more thing I've learned over the years is do not use synthetic gear lube because you will never get rid of the chatter regardless of how many bottles of additive you put in. On my Blazer I tried using Amsoil's synthetic gear lube because they claimed it was compatible. Well, they were wrong because it sounded like the rear diff was going to break in two. I gave it a few weeks hoping the noise would go away, but it never did. I drained it and put in standard gear lube and a couple bottles of GM limited slip additive, and the problem went away. That was an expensive mistake because Amsoil products aren't cheap.

Is this on a differential with some sort of locker?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by kehstr

Is this on a differential with some sort of locker?

Yes ! I've had issues with both Auburn style (cones) and clutch style that come in our Blazers when using synthetics. I'm not a chemist, but I assume it has something to do with the friction modifiers much like the difference between Dextron and F type transmission fluid.

On my Blazer, I used Amsoil synthetic in the transfer case as well as the front Diff, but because the front is just an open diff, I had no issues.

What's odd, is that it claims right on the Amsoil tech sheet that their oil is compatible with locking differentials.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Yes ! I've had issues with both Auburn style (cones) and clutch style that come in our Blazers when using synthetics. I'm not a chemist, but I assume it has something to do with the friction modifiers much like the difference between Dextron and F type transmission fluid.

On my Blazer, I used Amsoil synthetic in the transfer case as well as the front Diff, but because the front is just an open diff, I had no issues.

What's odd, is that it claims right on the Amsoil tech sheet that their oil is compatible with locking differentials.

Yeah, my dad had the same problem in his blazer with a Detroit, and he used Schaeffer's synthetic. As soon as he took the synthetic stuff out and put regular 80w-90 in it, it worked perfectly.

[Spf79]

Hi,

I finally got some time to myself in the garage.

Please take a look at the patterns on my gears, im looking for second opinions... should i run them or do some more shim work?

Pics of the 12 bolt

[prorat56]

Originally Posted by hemi43

And one more thing I've learned over the years is do not use synthetic gear lube because you will never get rid of the chatter regardless of how many bottles of additive you put in. On my Blazer I tried using Amsoil's synthetic gear lube because they claimed it was compatible. Well, they were wrong because it sounded like the rear diff was going to break in two. I gave it a few weeks hoping the noise would go away, but it never did. I drained it and put in standard gear lube and a couple bottles of GM limited slip additive, and the problem went away. That was an expensive mistake because Amsoil products aren't cheap.

I think he is using trutracks diffs witch have no clutches so no additive needed but I've been leaning away from synthetic's myself. My favorite HD gear oil is Torco race oil GL6 rated. I use it in my Dragweek prostreet car and I've been using the same 9.5" pro gear for 4 season running 7.50s and 6 thousand street miles and they still don't make noise. Also try morpar posi additive is by far the best additive I've ever used.

[DeadheadNM]

Nice work. Thanks for the update.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Nice work. Thanks for the update.

Thank you sir! That means a lot coming from you.
I have been following your highlander build. It is amazing!!!

[Spf79]

Thanksgiving week is always slow at work, so I got some time to finish up my dana. Apparently I had it all messed up & I got educated... always good to have friends that know things.

I was able to have my father inlaw help me move my rear end onto some jack stands and get my front axle on the saw horses. I got my knuckles on tonight, and fitted the spindles. I need to bolt the spindles and caliper plates on. Hope to get the front end under the frame this weekend. Rear end next week. I am waiting on my tie rod and rear end u-bolt plates to get back from the powder coater Monday.

Happy face!!!, I got my rear end sway bar and front pumpkin cover today.

[Spf79]

Finished the front axle tonight. Just waiting on the tie rod to get back from the powder coater. Hoping to get the front axle under the frame tomorrow.

[lks dcvn]

Very nice - where did you get the new 6 lug slot rims? Been looking for a used set for awhile - may just need to get new ones instead.

[hemi43]

Could you post a few more pictures of your front sway bar ? Do you know who manufactured it?
Also, how close is the rear sway bar from the diff cover? I'm asking because I would like to add one to my Blazer, but I only have around 5 inches between my diff cover and custom fuel tank. I'm also curious as to what that bracket is I circled in the picture. Thanks !!

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Could you post a few more pictures of your front sway bar ? Do you know who manufactured it?
Also, how close is the rear sway bar from the diff cover? I'm asking because I would like to add one to my Blazer, but I only have around 5 inches between my diff cover and custom fuel tank. I'm also curious as to what that bracket is I circled in the picture. Thanks !!

The rear bar is an Addco 202 1" rear sway bar for 2wd or 4wd trucks. It can be installed facing forward or backward of the axle. You circled it in its forward mounted position. I need to install the gas tank and then try changing the bar so that it faces rearward. Not sure how i like it yet. The front bar is a stock 73 & up 1-1/4" GM bar. The PO changed the front cross member out at some point. I can take some better pics tomorrow in the daylight. Sound good?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Spf79

The rear bar is an Addco 202 1" rear sway bar for 2wd or 4wd trucks. It can be installed facing forward or backward of the axle. You circled it in its forward mounted position. I need to install the gas tank and then try changing the bar so that it faces rearward. Not sure how i like it yet. The front bar is a stock 73 & up 1-1/4" GM bar. The PO changed the front cross member out at some point. I can take some better pics tomorrow in the daylight. Sound good?

Thanks !! After seeing your post, I spent lots of money today !! :-)
I went out this morning and bought an original 73 up front anti-sway bar from Bill's trucks which is just a few minutes from here. For some odd reason, I had a urethane bushing kit for it here which was a bonus. I will have to fab some front mounting pads, because I'm told the first Gen Blazers never came with front anti-sway bars.
While under the truck, I decided to buy new leaf springs also, and opted for the Tuff Country EZ-Ride with a 2"lift.
I like the idea of having the rear bar face forwards so I'll look into the one you used, because I may have fitment issues mounting rearwards. My exhaust pipes are in the way. Thanks for the info !!

Edit; I just checked the price for the Addco 202 here in Canada. $334.00 VS $186.00 at Jeg's !! FFS, I get fed up living up here. :-(

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Could you post a few more pictures of your front sway bar ? Do you know who manufactured it?
Also, how close is the rear sway bar from the diff cover? I'm asking because I would like to add one to my Blazer, but I only have around 5 inches between my diff cover and custom fuel tank. I'm also curious as to what that bracket is I circled in the picture. Thanks !!

Here are some more pics of the front sway bar.

Let me know if this is helpful or not.

[6768chevylover]

where did you get your bilsteins from and for what year truck/blazer? Thanks

[DeadheadNM]

Solid work. Thanks for updates. Strong work on the stripe - kanpai!

[hemi43]

Thanks for the pictures !! I like the idea of the mounting links at the spring perches. Would be less binding with this design. Probably a necessity with your lift kit. I see what you mean about the front cross member. I'll have to fab up some custom brackets.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Thanks for the pictures !! I like the idea of the mounting links at the spring perches. Would be less binding with this design. Probably a necessity with your lift kit. I see what you mean about the front cross member. I'll have to fab up some custom brackets.

No problem! I'm excited to see what you come up with for brackets.

[Spf79]

Front shocks in place, and the stabalizer mocked up. Not putting it on until it goes in for alignment.

[Lieferson]

This thing is gonna be sweet! Keep up the good work!

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by Lieferson

This thing is gonna be sweet! Keep up the good work!

Thank you sir!

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Spf79

Front shocks in place, and the stabalizer mocked up. Not putting it on until it goes in for alignment.

There's not much that can be adjusted. I just do my own because the caster and camber is built into the front axle. Only the toe needs to be adjusted and this is easily done with a tape measure. I'm running around 3/16" toe with 33" tires.
FWIW, I did make tapered shims as I've mentioned on a few posts to give me a bit more caster. Stock is around 3 degrees, but I increased this to around 6 1/2 degrees. This made the truck much more stable, and the steering centers itself much better after doing a turn.