Lower fender rust by doors

[crowdaddy]

Any suggestions on how to treat these rust holes, and would you fill or seal.

[MP&C]

Cut out the rust and weld in new metal..

[hugger6933]

X2. There are hundreds of places you can get patch panels from that have the same [basic] shape as the lower part of the fenders. Most people's fenders are in far worse shape than yours appear to be. I say appear to be because you take that fender off[that is a command not a request, take that fender off!] and you will find the metal on the back side has turned color way farther up the fender than you can dream. That rust started on the inside not on the outside where your seeing the bubbles and the rust through now. When you get the fender off and on the stand gently grind the paint and primmer back on the back side of the fender. Where the metal goes from orange and nasty to clean bright shiny metal that is where your new patch needs to go to. So you will find that the patched area will be lots larger than you first thought but going that way you won't end up trying to weld on rust [ that is kinda hard to do and it doesn't last to well]and you can get the good fit you need so that your patch can disappear once done correctly. Jim

[crowdaddy]

Originally Posted by MP&C

Cut out the rust and weld in new metal..

Thank you MP&C……….

[crowdaddy]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

X2. There are hundreds of places you can get patch panels from that have the same [basic] shape as the lower part of the fenders. Most people's fenders are in far worse shape than yours appear to be. I say appear to be because you take that fender off[that is a command not a request, take that fender off!] and you will find the metal on the back side has turned color way farther up the fender than you can dream. That rust started on the inside not on the outside where your seeing the bubbles and the rust through now. When you get the fender off and on the stand gently grind the paint and primmer back on the back side of the fender. Where the metal goes from orange and nasty to clean bright shiny metal that is where your new patch needs to go to. So you will find that the patched area will be lots larger than you first thought but going that way you won't end up trying to weld on rust [ that is kinda hard to do and it doesn't last to well]and you can get the good fit you need so that your patch can disappear once done correctly. Jim

Once off and gently ground down, do I weld it,(I think I know the answer, but I haven't welded for years)from the back, or try to fit it in whatever hole the grinding makes even with the surface? and can I do it with acetelyne and oxygen weld, or will that warp it?

[crowdaddy]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

X2. There are hundreds of places you can get patch panels from that have the same [basic] shape as the lower part of the fenders. Most people's fenders are in far worse shape than yours appear to be. I say appear to be because you take that fender off[that is a command not a request, take that fender off!] and you will find the metal on the back side has turned color way farther up the fender than you can dream. That rust started on the inside not on the outside where your seeing the bubbles and the rust through now. When you get the fender off and on the stand gently grind the paint and primmer back on the back side of the fender. Where the metal goes from orange and nasty to clean bright shiny metal that is where your new patch needs to go to. So you will find that the patched area will be lots larger than you first thought but going that way you won't end up trying to weld on rust [ that is kinda hard to do and it doesn't last to well]and you can get the good fit you need so that your patch can disappear once done correctly. Jim

Once off and gently ground down, do I weld it,(I think I know the answer, but I haven't welded for years)from the back, or try to fit it in whatever hole the grinding makes even with the surface? and can I do it with acetelyne and oxygen weld, or will that warp it?

[hugger6933]

Your best option is a MIG welder here and welding up the holes is not gonna be in the realm of possibility once the grinding back of all the orange gunk has been done and your back to clean American iron. Your gonna want to get the fender patch that many of the great parts vendors on this site sell I use a place called Top Banana they have some really top drawer stuff with great prices. If they have the parts I need it is the only place my shop will use on my trucks as long as I'm buying and owner of the shop.
Now with the patch the trick is to use only what you need as they make it to fit a wide array of truck problems while yours may just have a little at the back down low the next guy may have half of his lower rear gone . So to keep from having to make a bunch of different pieces they just oversize the patches. Just find out what you need and trim your patch to fit it then weld it on. Some overlap but the lap joint is ALWAYS gonna show the filler in the end. It may be a year but a ghost line will appear so I say it is best to butt fit all panels that are on the outside. [a lap may be okay inside the cab like floor work I guess] Weld it up grind it down smooth then wipe it with a filler that is water resistant like short strand fiber-strand. [it is a finely chopped fiber infused filler based fiberglass product ] making it the water resistant filler I had mentioned. Once it is worked to the best it can be then the final wipe can be done with regular filler then high build primer over that. Jim

[DPowers]

1960 to 1966 front fender rust repair part 1 -...

[crowdaddy]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Your best option is a MIG welder here and welding up the holes is not gonna be in the realm of possibility once the grinding back of all the orange gunk has been done and your back to clean American iron. Your gonna want to get the fender patch that many of the great parts vendors on this site sell I use a place called Top Banana they have some really top drawer stuff with great prices. If they have the parts I need it is the only place my shop will use on my trucks as long as I'm buying and owner of the shop.
Now with the patch the trick is to use only what you need as they make it to fit a wide array of truck problems while yours may just have a little at the back down low the next guy may have half of his lower rear gone . So to keep from having to make a bunch of different pieces they just oversize the patches. Just find out what you need and trim your patch to fit it then weld it on. Some overlap but the lap joint is ALWAYS gonna show the filler in the end. It may be a year but a ghost line will appear so I say it is best to butt fit all panels that are on the outside. [a lap may be okay inside the cab like floor work I guess] Weld it up grind it down smooth then wipe it with a filler that is water resistant like short strand fiber-strand. [it is a finely chopped fiber infused filler based fiberglass product ] making it the water resistant filler I had mentioned. Once it is worked to the best it can be then the final wipe can be done with regular filler then high build primer over that. Jim

Thanks for your info, Jim, and your time……….

[crowdaddy]

Originally Posted by DPowers

1960 to 1966 front fender rust repair part 1 - YouTube

What a great way to get the rust out, that was a skilled, very skilled job. Enjoyed it greatly. Looks way challenging…………..

[69chevytrucker]

Seen that guy in a lot of vids no guard on grinder and amaing how he carves pieces up with it very skilled no gloves either lol mind you im bad for not wearing gloves too

[MP&C]

This isn't the same fender, but here's a tutorial thread I did that may give you a few pointers..


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=571177

[crowdaddy]

Originally Posted by MP&C

This isn't the same fender, but here's a tutorial thread I did that may give you a few pointers..


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=571177

That was great, rebuilt right in front of us. It's like a new fender.