Killers 5.3L install

[68 short step]

im sure ill still be doing these type jobs so when you're ready...
i believe that 13500 did include the engine/trans, but he'll chime in with the budget, if he chooses...he's very serious about what he wants and doesnt mess-around...we're replaceing EVERYTHING and updateing it as well... so it should be a very sweet truck when done!!!

[Ackattack]

I'm kinda concerned....is that tranny cooler going to be enough? I wouldn't think there is enough airflow underneath the cab to properly cool it. Something you might want to make sure of (maybe you already did.....if so disregard )

[killer71]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I'm kinda concerned....is that tranny cooler going to be enough? I wouldn't think there is enough airflow underneath the cab to properly cool it. Something you might want to make sure of (maybe you already did.....if so disregard )

From the research i've found from different people the tranny cooler isn't necessary at all but to ease my mind while pulling my boats up into the Arkansas mnts I just wanted to make double sure the tranny would be o.k. We had planned on mounting a tranny temp gauge but it slipped my mind and I was gonna check with don to see if it was too late but either way, I think it will be fine mounted where it is from what i've read. The airflow flowing underneath the cab is supposed to be sufficient but if it's not i bet i know someone who can take care of it.

[Thealien]

I also look at it this way. Many of us rebuild our engines, transmisions, and transfer cases at least once while owning our trucks. That alone can cost about what these engines are running that you are swapping in ($3500-5000?). That leaves $8-10,000 for this swap (68SS Labor and asst parts). These new FI engines all seem to go (just a generalizatios) 200,000 miles easily because they don 't run rich (gas washing cylinders) or lean (just as dammaging). Where the earlier engines usually we were happy with 100,000 miles before a rebuild (again I know just a generalization, some new engines die before 100, and some old engines have well over 200,000 but IMHO these are not the norm). Not to mention the increased fuel mileage. We would have to drive an awfull lot of miles to recoup $13,500 in fuel savings but getting 15-20 MPG as opposed to getting 8-12 out of our carbed engines might help us use/enjoy our trucks more than we do.

Also I for one wouldn't mind not having to wrench on my toy (although to some extent I enjoy it) and know when I want I can hop in and drive anywhere!!

Alright maybe I am just trying to justify it to myself LOL but I think it would be worth it. Starting saving now!

[killer71]

I agree with ya the carb and fi have their pro's/cons, and yea i like to work on my truck to...just at home and not setting on the side of the road. I guess it's just all in what a fella wants to go with and I chose what I chose so there is no turning back now. But i think i'll be more than happy with the end result.

Believe me when he gets through you'll see where the $$$ figure came from. There are several things that we've planned on doing that he hasn't revealed so...stay tuned!

[68 short step]

the ECM and TCM will be mounted on the firewall behind the engine, when the engine cover is on you wont see them unless you know to look there..

[shifty]

Question: Is your quad-gauge electronic or analog?

I ask because I'm pretty sure that the PCM puts out serial data for the oil pressure and won't work with an electronic gauge.

I still (3 months later?) haven't received my speedo and tach from Jegs, still out of stock everywhere, but ... I am uncertain what gauges are actually going to work from the PCM output

[killer71]

Originally Posted by shifty

Question: Is your quad-gauge electronic or analog?

I ask because I'm pretty sure that the PCM puts out serial data for the oil pressure and won't work with an electronic gauge.

I still (3 months later?) haven't received my speedo and tach from Jegs, still out of stock everywhere, but ... I am uncertain what gauges are actually going to work from the PCM output

the quad gauge is electronic...don will have to chime in on pcm working with elect. gauge...I HOPE it will work tho.

I ordered the electronic set up from summit and don had em the next day.

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by shifty

Question: Is your quad-gauge electronic or analog?

I ask because I'm pretty sure that the PCM puts out serial data for the oil pressure and won't work with an electronic gauge.

I still (3 months later?) haven't received my speedo and tach from Jegs, still out of stock everywhere, but ... I am uncertain what gauges are actually going to work from the PCM output

in answer to your ?, both, the guages are analog and electric.... IMO i dont like the idea of water or oil having the possibilty to mess up the interior.. and with the mechanical guage thats what could potentially happen.....
the PCM pinouts has a "SERIAL DATA" wire that goes to the guage cluster (this in most cases controls temp, oil, volts, etc...) you'll also have a "engine speed" wire pinout... you'll use this for your tach (set your tach to 4 cyl. mode, to read properly to the PCM output).. and lastly you'll have a "vehicle speed" wire pinout ( !!IMPORTANT!!---- the PCM gets its signal from the vehicle speed sensor, located on the tailhousing of the transmission... this sensor sends the PCM a 'sine wave' signal then the PCM turns it into a 4000 pulse per mile 'square wave' signal, and this is the pinout labeled "vehicle speed".... autometer guages are a bit diffrent pending on style you get... but you'll either have a pin labeled "SQ" for square wave, "SIN" for sine wave, or just one pin labeled "SIG" and you can connect either sine wave or square wave signals here.... if you use the the pinout on the PCM ( vehicle speed) connect it to the SQ pin if not you'll need to splice into the purple VSS wire and connect it to the SIN pin......
as for how im gonna make these guages work is im running the included sending units for the guages... i had to remove the plug on the pass side head and installed the temp sending unit there.... then on the oil pan i drilled and tapped the same "elbow" as you did and installed the oil pressure sending unit there....

[killer71]

Yea that's what I meant to say but that's way to much typing?

Don what the HE!! did you just say???

Guys again that's why Killer is at 68 ss's house...whew you lost me, i'm gonna have to read that again.

[shifty]

so, just to clarify, you used an electric sender for the oil pressure? i think i might replace the stock sender with an electric one ... but am sticking with analog for the time being.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Stu Cool@LS1tech

I found a very useful adapter kit with 5 different fittings that will connect a 1/8 x27 NPT sender to M10 x 1, M12 x 1.5, M14 x 1.5 and M16 x 1.5 and 1/8" x 28 BSP. This will enable you to put a temp sender in the passenger side head without drilling or tapping. Also some aftermarket gauge manufacturers are stocking 12 mm senders now. Check with your gauge company.

Edit: I found that one of these adapters will also work with the oil sending hole at the back of the block behind the intake manifold. Just use the adapter, then a 1/8 npt nipple and a 90 degree fitting or what ever angle you need.

It is made by EQUUS, part number is #6848. Cost was less than $8 plus tax. I got it from my local Auto Parts. Much less expensive than the $16.50 for one fitting from one of the conversion specialists.

Pat

This is to use the supplied aftermarket senders or your stock ones if you want stock gauges. Or just drill and tap the elbow above the oil filter. I've also heard of guys drilling out the old temp sender. Wiring is easy, just use what's already in the vehicle, you should already have all the wiring for these at the fusebox bulkhead, or if you're real ambitious, route them through the LSX harness...

Originally Posted by killer71

Yea that's what I meant to say but that's way to much typing?

Don what the HE!! did you just say???

Guys again that's why Killer is at 68 ss's house...whew you lost me, i'm gonna have to read that again.

He just gave some priceless info on how to wire up a GenIII conversion. Should prolly cut/paste it to the LS1 FAQ...

[shifty]

good info on the adapter, not sure how i missed that info.

i still think i'm going to replace the adapeter on my oil pan and go electric.

[68 short step]

ok here are the pics of the oil sender and the temp sender.... i drilled and tapped both the oil pan elbow and the head to install these... i didnt know about the adapter either, but wished i had, would of been easier...
aslo got the hidden hitch installed and the gas tank wont even be visable, so the stock look will be retained.... received the rear disc brake kit today and im macking it up, pics will be added soon of the install....

[shifty]

the more i see your wire routing, the more and more i wish i had actually hacked my own wiring.

[killer71]

Oh Yea, KILLER dude!

[1LoC10]

the passenger side tail pipe is just a tad bit lower, its hard to see, but it is...lol
Install looks awesome man, wish you lived closer to me

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by 1LoC10

the passenger side tail pipe is just a tad bit lower, its hard to see, but it is...lol
Install looks awesome man, wish you lived closer to me

[gringoloco]

What component is that between the mount adapter plate and the oil sender? Lookin' good btw...

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

What component is that between the mount adapter plate and the oil sender? Lookin' good btw...

that is the knock sensor... on these DOD engines the valley cover isnt just a cover it is a valve body with electric solenoids to control the lifters... I.E cylinder shut off..........its a called VLOM (valve lifter oil manifold).... and thats a factory heat shield that i reused....
NOTE: on normal LS series engines the knock sensors are mounted in the valley cover under the intake

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

that is the knock sensor... on these DOD engines the valley cover isnt just a cover it is a valve body with electric solenoids to control the lifters... I.E cylinder shut off..........its a called VLOM (valve lifter oil manifold).... and thats a factory heat shield that i reused....
NOTE: on normal LS series engines the knock sensors are mounted in the valley cover under the intake

Aaahhh... 1 step forward, 2 steps back- goin' old school SBC style with the KS. I haven't delt with one of the DOD motors yet. Cool.

Keep up the good work -Chris

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Aaahhh... 1 step forward, 2 steps back- goin' old school SBC style with the KS.

2 steps back, how so??

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

2 steps back, how so??

Reverting to the old technology-putting the knock sensors in the side of the block like the old LT-1s. More like two steps forward, one step back- the DOD is worth it...

[shifty]

looks like a homemade heat shield, but don't recognize what would go there. looks like where my dipstick is mounted.

[shifty]

Ah, DOD (Displacement on Demand)

Note to self: Don't get one