67 door latches in a 60-66?

[joedoh]

fact: locking the door with the key only locks the button, not the actual latch

fact: it is hard (if not impossible) to put a power lock motor on the 60-66 latch because of how it locks

the 67 inside handle operates like the 60-66, has anyone tried trading out the latch and jamb assemblies to give a latch with a door lock pin? I absolutely want keyless entry, not to use a key, so before I go buy some lock buttons and keys at bowtie bits, has anyone tried this?

[joedoh]

ok I have been looking into it, looks like the 67 latch will replace the 65 latch with a little work, it is slightly longer but has a similar pad for the door button, a similar attachment for the inside handle rod, and has the all important lock rod attachment.

here is the stock 65, note the two mounting screws on the bottom


here is the 67, note the two mounting screws are slightly further away, also note the little loop for the lock button rod


bowtie bits has the entire assembly for 75 bucks, and they are local, I think a stop is warranted monday.
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor...Category_ID=99

[duallyjams]

I have only seen bear claw latches used to upgrade the factory ones, we'll have to see what you come up with.

[Grandpa54]

I was thinking the same thing. Please let us know what you fine out

[trelogix]

There was a write-up done a while back on how to modify the stock door latch to accept power door lock actuators. I think it was on http://www.persh.org/Pickup/IdeaPage.htm. When I tried going to that link, however, I'm getting a server error. Maybe someone else knows an alternate location for the write-up. Its what I used on my door latches and it works pretty well. The only drawback is that the button on the outside handle still works and allows the door to be opened to the "first click". It does take a little fabrication but its not too bad.

I'm actually looking to replace my latches with the Altman Easy Latches from Trique Mfg. I spoke with the owner of the company and the latches are are already setup to accept power door locks. The downside to those is the price - $350 a set.

I'll dig around and see if I can find the original writeup and post it here.

[trelogix]

Here's the thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=580299

[joedoh]

yeah that just seems like a fiddly amount of work.

but GOOD NEWS!

I bought the 67 door latch kits from bowtie bits
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor...Category_ID=99

and they will bolt in with only two new holes, and the door lock rod comes up in a perfect spot.



If you dont want the lock rod up through the top of the door you can just attach your actuator directly to the latch and remove the rods.

The kits come with a new door handle mount and all the rods and even those look to be in the same exact spot as the 66 doors. I think you can even make an external key work with a little work on the rod.

All I need now are some door lock actuators and to install my alarm. I will make a how-to thread on this when I put them in but feel free to usurp the credit if you get yours done first.

[Grandpa54]

Thanks for posting im going to try it too

[joedoh]

just a note, you will need three new holes, the upper hole is slightly out of the right spot. I plan to drill the countersink from the old holes, then make the new holes from a template, before welding up the old holes with some flat washers

[Heater63]

Bump please.

So how did this work out? Is a '67 latch the answer? and what do you recommend for electric actuators?

[62chevy302]

So before you start. Yes. . . I know im bringing this tread back from the dead. I have the altman easy latches for a 60-63. I would like to install door lock rods like the 67-72 trucks or install a lock/unlock button in the cab. Has anybody done anything like this?

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by joedoh

just a note, you will need three new holes, the upper hole is slightly out of the right spot. I plan to drill the countersink from the old holes, then make the new holes from a template, before welding up the old holes with some flat washers

How did this work out?