'50 chevy 3100

[Matt_50]

Well, the part I replaced on the driver regulator bent. Spins spins spins but regulator does not work. Wasted money and time and im gonna order a regulator like I should have done.

Passenger glass is in though. Looks Awesome!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

It worked! Thanks joedoh!

youre welcome. I bought that stuff on a whim, I used to use F26 construction adhesive as a seam sealer because it added stregnth to a joint, instead of just sealing like seam sealant, but the "anything to anything" bond of fuze-it was interesting. I used it on some window channels and after that, everything.

[Matt_50]

Got lazy today but did get around to ordering a new regulator.

[Matt_50]

Regulator came in and I have some fuel line ordered. Schools out tomorrow, unused weather day no inservice for me!, so I'll get the driver glass in and then fuze-it the window channels in place. While I have the fuze-it out I'll take care of some little spots while I'm at it.

[Matt_50]

I've been messing with this for an hour. I can't get the glass to go all the way up! Compared regulators, everything looks good. Channel isn't pinching... I'm at a loss.

[joedoh]

look inside the door and make sure the big gear on your regulator is topped out, if its not, you are binding in the channel. you could also possibly be bound by one of the screws that mount the glass hitting the roller.

if you are topped out on the big gear, I hate to say it but that is sometimes a problem I have heard of with new regulators.

[Matt_50]

Bought only the left one new. From Ecklers. Passenger side is original, needed new rollers and wd-40. I played with the little bit of adjustment I get and both windows go up and down smoothly. Both stop in same spot. Old and new.

I checked for binding and for rollers hitting screws. All is good. I don't get it...

[joedoh]

thats weird, seems like I always have to crank them up that last 1/2 inch, but they always go.

[nvrdone]

maybe you have to elongate the mounting holes to get the regulator to move up further.
before doing that id take the roller track off the bottom of the glass & see if the glass goes all the way up. I ran into the same kind of problem. turned out I had the wrong bolts in the channel and the rollers were hanging up on the bolt heads

[Matt_50]

In the up position that would be the middle two bolts right? I was worried about that same thing so I only have the two bolts on either end. No bolt heads to run into in the middle. When disconnected the window can be easily pushed the rest of the way up.

[Matt_50]

Because of the power steering I had to move the shock mounts. I measured everything off of the axle centerline I marked on the frame. I mirrored the measurements over and I got the mounts loosely on but I need to get some grade 8 3/8th bolts. Think I'll trim the mount when I get new bolts.

[Matt_50]

Got up early and got a good 4hrs in today while my wife slept in. Buddy came by and we got the pinion angle set and engine crossmember finally welded completely. Carb is 0 degrees, end of trans is kinda between 3 and 4 degrees down and rear end is 3 degrees up. Next time I'm at hardware store I need a bunch of grade 8 bolts but drivetrain is set!!


Now to get my old driveshaft shortened, how do i correctly measure for that?

[joedoh]

awesome possum man!

[8man]

Good job.

[Matt_50]

A PO cut off the rear shock mounts. Left the part riveted to frame but looks like torched off anything sticking off. And the bottom mounts look cut, I thought broke but noticed uppers purposefully cut.

I already have some shock mounts and I think I can grind smooth and drill a hole in old ones. This should work right? Shocks are fairly universal in ID size right?

[Matt_50]

Got a bunch of 3/8 bolts. Unfortunately Lowe's only had 7 nuts. It'll get me started I guess. I got a few minutes in today and got the front cab mounts in. Tight fit and one is a tad crooked, and the cab sits a good half inch towards passenger... I think I'll have to revisit this and make some adjustments. I replaced the passenger support a while back and I may need to adjust the bolt hole a bit.

Tomorrow I plan to pick up a better tube bender on the way home. Crappy AutoZone one is bent out of wack and I can't get the fuel line to line up on it.

[8man]

It's always something. Are you using stainless tubing? That stuff is hard and needs a good bender.

[Matt_50]

Nope, I didn't care for this tool even on the smaller brake line. Kinda awkward to use. For something so big and bulky it's kinda pathetic lol.

[Matt_50]

Got my fuel line bent and flared. That 3/8 ths line was a bit tough. I need a single line fuel pump, a little bit of rubber line and a few line clamps to finish it up.

[Matt_50]

Got a few minutes in. With only 7 nuts I was able to replace bolts on one hanger and one shock mount. I did trim the shock mounts and painted black. Took a wire wheel to the rear axle, some black paint and it looks awesome!

[joedoh]

that looks outstanding!

[oldman3]

Yeah, a little clean up, paint, it always looks good...Jim

[8man]

Shiny! Very nice.

[Matt_50]

Got rear brake line bent and flared!! Just need the rubber one from axle to hard line now.

[Matt_50]

Finally fully secured steering column. Had to trim the dash brace. I was gonna leave it out but I got paranoid 10 minutes later.

Cleaned and paint E brake from c10, plan to put it in tomorrow.