292 engine upgrades questions

[esahic]

I have a 292 in my 69 c10. The truck runs, but not very good. Im new to the carb engine and all, so I would like some advice on what to do.

It has a Rochester mono jet single carb 1bbl and the previous owner said it had new distributor and wires on it.

Is this a good carb to have?

What else should I do to get the truck purring like new?

I want a reliable truck I can drive everyday.

Help a new guy out.

['68OrangeSunshine]

While the Rochester Monojet is simple and reliable it's not known for performance.
I run an Edelbrock 1404, 500 CFM 4 bbl carb on an Offerhauser intake with Clifford headers on the L6 292 in my '68 C/10 Stepside. Block was bored out .030-over [=296 Cubic Inches], 1.84'' intake valves [1.6'' is stock]. Badger cast aluminum pistons, chrome-moly rings, Crane 260H cam. Pertronix Ignitor II ignition.
Get Leo Santucci's book: "Chevrolet Six-Cylinder Power Manual.''
The 292 was made as a no-nonsense, work truck mill --designed to go all day with massive torque at low RPM. It does not wind high, but with bigtime torque you can do a lot with lower [than a V8] RPMs.
Look in at www.inliners.org the website of Inliners International. It's not as good a site as 67-72 Chevy Trucks, but it's very L6 specific.
Good luck.

[SS Tim]

Start with the manuals and the basics. An engine needs to be in good condition to run well reliably. Doing a tune up including timing and timing advance is a good start to baseline the engine. Compression and cylinder leakdown tests will give you a very good idea of how the engine is internally.

* VIN/Model Decoders
* Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio)
* Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID
* RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

[hamjet]

Sounds like you grew up on injected engines, A carbed 6 banger in a pickup will be no comparison to a 4 or 6 cyl. fuel injected small car. You state it runs, but not very good. Does it run smooth, does it hesitate on acceleration, or any other problems?

[esahic]

I grew up on fuel injected motors. This is my first Carb'd engine. The truck is hard to start and when it does start it sometimes shuts off. I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. Once it gets started it runs fine. Ive only taken it up and down the street and it runs okay. I don't have much experience with engines, I'm learning as I go.

[Shaky]

The '68 monojet carbs have been good for me. Maybe a run-through with a rebuild kit would help it out and get you familiar with it.

With all the sixes I've had, the first modification I make is to throw a mid-70s HEI in. It's an easy swap, performs better, and avoids having to play with points. Just make sure you get a true 12v to it - not the 7v that the resistor wire provides to the old coil.

[LockDoc]

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The first thing you need to do is learn how to use the choke. Your '69 should have an automatic choke so you need to "set" the choke before you try to start it. When you are ready to start the truck press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor once. If everything is adjusted and working properly this sets the choke. Then you can start it. You can check to see if it is setting by taking the air cleaner top off and see if the choke plate is closed. It should start easier and it will be on high idle until the engine warms up. Be sure and lube all of the carb linkage.

I would upgrade to an I6 HEI distributor. That will also make it start and run much better....

LockDoc

[esahic]

I looked for a automatic choke. My buddy's 72 has a choke that he pulls out and it starts, but I could not find one on my 69.

[esahic]

How do i check to see if I already have a HEI distributor? I know the previous owner said he changed the plugs, wires and distributor.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by esahic

How do i check to see if I already have a HEI distributor? I know the previous owner said he changed the plugs, wires and distributor.

Biggest tell on the L6 HEI is the male plugwire contacts sticking up on the upper cap. Stock points caps have Female plug wire sockets. Most HEIs have the coil as part of the cap on top, but could have a remote coil. Also if you pull off the cap and see points, then it's not HEI. HEIs are also bigger.

[esahic]

Here is a picture of what I'm working with. Can you tell if the distributer is HEI? I don't believe it is.

Also I have a friend selling me a Msd blaster 3 coil for $25, should I buy it and replace my old one?

[GRX]

Definitely points. If HEI the coil would be under the cap. You can switch to HEI if desired. Though in an older stock engine like this, improvements from such are usually because new parts are replacing old worn out ones. Been a while since I have price compared the two complete systems. Probably better in the long run to switch over.

[esahic]

If I buy a HEI distributer, do I still need the MSD Blaster 3 Coil or is that built into the HEI distributor? Also is the install for the HEI distributer easy to swap in?

[Scottcoda]

Another option to consider is a Petronix ignition conversion.. This is what I did on my 250ci.. It keeps the stock distrib looks.. Works excellent.. Easy Peasy to install and most kits can be found on amazon for around 100 bucks.. Do a search on this site and you will find loads of positive things about it.. Good luck

http://www.pertronix.com

[Shaky]

Originally Posted by esahic

If I buy a HEI distributer, do I still need the MSD Blaster 3 Coil or is that built into the HEI distributor? Also is the install for the HEI distributer easy to swap in?

I'm not sure the Blaster would work with the HEI. The stock HEI coil is good stuff and would make for a tidy installation.

Here's an HEI on my '67 292.

[slomotion]

Originally Posted by esahic

Here is a picture of what I'm working with............

JMHO, but I'm not convinced what you're showing us is a 292. The fuel pump should be behind the engine mount, and the lifter covers should be considerably taller. One of the tell-tales are the engine mounts....are they staggered, or across from each other?

[esahic]

The motor mounts are across from each other. NOT staggered.

[slomotion]

I think you have a 250. The 292 mounts are staggered.

[Norgermish]

Originally Posted by slomotion

JMHO, but I'm not convinced what you're showing us is a 292. The fuel pump should be behind the engine mount, and the lifter covers should be considerably taller. One of the tell-tales are the engine mounts....are they staggered, or across from each other?

Good call on that!!

I've got basically the same set up on my '67. Been having problems with it missing and running rough. I picked up a stock HEI rebuilt distributor, wires and plugs from Tom at Stovebolt. Put it in and noticed a considerable difference. Still have some issues but the HEI is a good start. (no pun intended)

I looked for a automatic choke. My buddy's 72 has a choke that he pulls out and it starts, but I could not find one on my 69.

Your buddy has a manual choke, you have an automatic choke. As stated before, in the morning get in the truck depress the gas pedal all the way down and release it. Then turn the ignition and let it start. If it is set correctly your truck will idle at a higher RPM, until it warms up or until you do a quick rev on the pedal, after it heats up a bit.

[Shaky]

Originally Posted by slomotion

I think you have a 250. The 292 mounts are staggered.

Yep. OK then - here's my 250 with an HEI (ignore the thermostat housing orientation):

[esahic]

Thats a good looking engine Shaky! I need to pull mine out and give it some fresh paint.

[esahic]

Thanks for the help you guys. Im glad I know its a 250 instead of a 292. Someone on another forum told me it was definitely a 292 and I believed them.

[esahic]

Ok, so I have will be buying a HEI Distributor to replace and go from there. I found a couple on Ebay for $70. Do you guys recommend ones from ebay or should I look somewhere else? Also how easy is the install? anything I should look know or is it self explanatory?

[Norgermish]

Originally Posted by esahic

Ok, so I have will be buying a HEI Distributor to replace and go from there. I found a couple on Ebay for $70. Do you guys recommend ones from ebay or should I look somewhere else?

Ebay- it depends on what you are buying, as in all things you get what you pay for. I bought mine from this site http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/sto...uilt/p/1222042
It is a reconditioned GM HEI distributor for $95.00. You'll need spark plugs and HEI wires to go with it.

Also how easy is the install? anything I should look know or is it self explanatory?

Here is a link from this site for how to do it. It isn't difficult but you have to have some mechanical ability. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=148346

Good luck and ask questions if you need help

['68OrangeSunshine]

The most important detail about the HEI install is that you feed it full-time 12VDC. The Points distributor system has a Yellow 20 ga. wire going to the Coil Pos (+) terminal. This end, plus its other side, the Yellow 20 on the Starter, are connected to the Resistor wire Orange/Purple/White from the bulkhead connector. You will need to run a new line [I like Red] 10- or 12- ga. from "Ign.Unfused" on the Fuse terminal in the cab thru the firewall and right to the (+) coil lead in the cap of the HEI. The old line with the resistor wire will provide 12 volts initially, at start up, but as it heats up will increase its resistance; dropping voltage to 7-9 VDC, so the points don't burn up. HEI Modules will ... not function optimally... if not given their full 12 volts.
So you need a fresh wire. You can keep the old yellow wire in place, just tape it off, if you ever want to go back to points. Keep the other end Yellow lead on the Starter, that's still necessary.