47-55.1 Eliminate draft tube options

[dsraven]

sorry, what I call a clevis is actually a screw-pin shackle
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/cl...s-for-lifting/

a home made bracket that would look something like this, with the appropriate holes drilled for mounting to the head and made to span the distance of the head width, is what i meant for the front thermostat housing bolt up area
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-5058LH-K/mu...brackets-86-93

[dsraven]

if you have nothing but time you could fab a plate to bolt up to the water pump and thermostat housing bolts and then you would have no worries about whether the holes are strong enough, lol.
use a gasket to a pattern to make the bracket from or use the thermostat housing itself for a pattern. mark it, drill the bracket holes slightly larger, bolt it on tight. done.
same for the starter mount bracket. some will say just bolt the chain on there, good enough. if you bolt the chain across the 2 bolts usually only one bolt is doing the actual lifting. a bracket bolted on tight ensures both bolts are doing the work so the load is spread out. same theory for the chain that I would use across the manifold bolts. use a couple of bolts with the short chain between them, then the actual lifting chain connects to that in the middle of the chain so BOTH manifold bolts take the load. of course a home made bracket here would also be better but thats a little more time and effort.

[TX3100Guy]

The saga continues. The engine is now successfully out of the truck but try as I might, I could not get it to mate up to the engine stand. When I was able to get the four adjustable brackets loosely attached to the stand, I was not happy with the placement of the two lower bolts as they were uncomfortably close to the rear end cap and bearing. Rather than risk fate, I used my 1,000 pound hydraulic cart to partially support the engine while still attached to the engine hoist.

My question is, has anyone found or used an adapter plate to mate to an inline six engine to a fairly standard engine stand? Where can I find an adapter plate like that?

[geezer#99]

Let’s see your fairly standard engine stand.
Just a pic.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Let’s see your fairly standard engine stand.
Just a pic.

2,000 pound, foldable, Harbor Freight.

[geezer#99]

Maybe you need the slotted arm style like this one.
Multi positions.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...p.0090223.html

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Maybe you need the slotted arm style like this one.
Multi positions.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...p.0090223.html

Unfortunately, that appears to be exactly what I have. But the spacing on the arms seems to be arranged for a V8 and not a straight six. I've made a pattern from the bell housing and it clearly doesn't fit the stand.

[geezer#99]

I can’t see why that won’t bolt on.
You got a pic of your bellhousing and back of the block?

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I can’t see why that won’t bolt on.
You got a pic of your bellhousing and back of the block?

The photo of the block missed the top two bolt holes, but you can see them on the photo of the bell housing.

[TX3100Guy]

I'll post pics of the bell housing and the block in a bit, I'm busy taking a rest....LOL

The issue is one of spacing of the four block holes to be used and the adjustably of the moveable arms on the stand. I can get the top two on easily, but given the horizontal and vertical distance, the arms for the lower bolts rest up against the rear end cap and crankshaft. To avoid them resting against the crank, I can only get one of the two lower arms attached.

This was after two hours of fidgeting with it.

[geezer#99]

Got it!
You might need some longer bolts and spacers to get it to fit.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Got it!
You might need some longer bolts and spacers to get it to fit.

I'll give that a try this weekend.

[TX3100Guy]

Apparently, I just needed to sleep on it and then tried some spacers to move the adjustable arms away from the crank and end cap.




New question. What is this hole/port for? It's on the drivers side of the engine and I'm wondering if I could repurpose it for my oil pressure sensor instead of using a tee-fitting off one of the oil filter lines.

[geezer#99]

Could be coolant drain hole.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Could be coolant drain hole.

I should of taken and posted a better picture.

[geezer#99]

Remove the plug and see what comes out.

[TX3100Guy]

I have already drained the oil and coolant. The thread pitch is wrong for my oil pressure sensor. When originally I removed the bolt, it appeared greasy black, but wan't dripping from oil.

[leegreen]

Stick your compressor air line into that hole and see what sprays out the other openings in block, coolant or oil.

It could get messy

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Stick your compressor air line into that hole and see what sprays out the other openings in block, coolant or oil.

It could get messy

It could be, if you crank the psi up to 100 plus . Try some low psi first, then you won't potentially be cleaning up gu from across the garage

[TX3100Guy]

A couple of mysteries solved.

1) the bolt on the side that I was asking about goes into the coolant side of things, not the oil galleries. With the water pump already off, blowing air resulting in a hollow sound and air escaping through the large opening for the water pump.

2) a week or two ago I was asking about replacing the oil line in the lifter/push rod side of the engine. I used Mr. Google on the interwebs to find a company that sells a NOS oil line replacement kit. The photo below is the old line at the top and the box and the kit on the lower half of the photo.

The new kits uses compression fitting versus the flared ones on the engine. The next step is to ensure that the thread pitch on the two connecting fitting are the same, they look to be.

[dsraven]

I thought that block plug was gonna be a coolant hole.
Not trying to be picking at your new purchase but the rocker oil line could have been replaced easily with a length of brake line. Maybe even easier to bend to fit. Since you have the new on though, go for it. I recommend you straighten the line out before you start.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I thought that block plug was gonna be a coolant hole.
Not trying to be picking at your new purchase but the rocker oil line could have been replaced easily with a length of brake line. Maybe even easier to bend to fit. Since you have the new on though, go for it. I recommend you straighten the line out before you start.

The NOS kit was $20. I'd have spent that much for a piece of brake line and new fittings.

[dsraven]

yep, good point. for a lurker hiding in the weeds though......

[mr48chev]

Back in the 70's a buddy of mine built his own engine stand to hold up the 426 Hemi out of his Roadrunner. He drilled the bolt pattern of the bellhousing mounting surface of the block on a piece of 1/2 inch steel plate that was big enough to cover the back of the engine and then welded a piece of heavy structural pipe to it to stick in the stand. He had a cut out for the crank. Rather crude looking but he was the best welder in town and it was strong.

If you were to take a piece of 1/2 inch plate ( I don't think 3/8 is strong enough). you could cut out the inside of the pattern of the back and drill the holes in the right spots to bolt it to the block and then drill 4 holes on the corners of the plate to bolt to the arms on the stand. That would probably take going to the scrap yard that sells remnant pieces rather than the steel yard.

[dsraven]

a lot of engine stands place the pivot point, where the tube is that goes into the actual stand, fairly close to the crankshaft. that may be ok for a V8 or a small inline but these engines are tall and heavy. that means there is a lot of weight above the crank so the engine always wants to rotate that heavy top section towards the bottom or try to topple the stand over. most of the el cheapo deluxe engine stands are not that wide at their base, really, so I recommend to be carefull with your design and ensure you have a little help when you rotate the engine on the stand, it can easily get away on you and you could end up with the engine on the floor, or worse , it could grab you on the way down. maybe working on it while on the hydraulic table wouldn't be a bad thing after all. if placing it on a stand try to get the pivot point as close to the balance point on the engine as possible. remember that when the head goes back on it will get even heavier and top heavy.
I'm sure you have thought of all this stuff but I can say from experience that the last 235 I had on a stand I realized how stinkin heavy those old inliners are. my engine stand is incorporated into a leg on the corner of my heavy steel workbench and has a slip in "foot tube" to help take the weight of the engine. I have had many engines on that stand but that 235, wow, it fought the weight of the workbench like a seesaw. i had to add some bracing and work more carefully for sure.