Is break in oil on an L31 a good idea?

[msg]

I finally have time to focus on getting my L31 crate motor assembled and before I did anything I asked the GM performance tech guy and he said break in oil can be used but doesnt have to be anything more than regular oil. Just not to use synthetic for at least the first 500 miles. I asked which he recommended and he said its up to the individual. What do you guys think, use the break in oil..which one? Or just regualr oil, and then as well which one? I just dont know this stuff so any help is appreciated.

[AussieinNC]

Your L31 has s roller cam, which means you can get away without a break in oil ,,,,,

I always use Lucas Engine Break-In Oil 10631...on all engines I build....

Leave it in for 500 miles, change filter and oil....after that you can use synthetic oil if you like,,,

I tend to use a Synthetic High Mileage oil, even in new builds....found it works quite well...

[geezer#99]

While you don’t need break in oil, just remember that elevated rpm (about 1500 rpm) is still needed on first fire up. Most of the cam/lifters oiling is from oil splash.

[sweetk30]

i did 5 qrt of brad penn break in oil and after the first 250 miles it needed 1 qrt extra . then 500 miles i dumped it and went mobile 1 5-30 and wix oil filter .

yes its roller cam but i say few extra bucks for peace of mind in the end .

[msg]

Thanks guys, I am aok with spending the extra to get the break in type as a good measure. Its just which one to get and weight or whatever to figure out. Geezer on the 1500 is that for 20 min steady? Trying to prepare myself for the racket in my garage and the neighbors.

[geezer#99]

You decide.
See how it goes.
10 minutes might be good.
Anything is better than an idle.
I’ve always set up the biggest house fan I had in front of the rad too. Helps cooling.

[Tom]

The 2k is for flat tappet engines. They need to wear in and they need enough oil to do it which requires 2k rpm or more for 20min. Roller cam engines don't do this, and don't require any elevated rpm. I've never heard someone suggest this for a roller cam until today.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Tom

The 2k is for flat tappet engines. They need to wear in and they need enough oil to do it which requires 2k rpm or more for 20min. Roller cam engines don't do this, and don't require any elevated rpm. I've never heard someone suggest this for a roller cam until today.

You can wear out cam lobes if they aren’t lubed. No matter the style of lifter.
A little extra rpm hurts nothing. Oil splash is a good thing.
You need to read a few other forums. Lots of info on wiped lobes on roller motors.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You can wear out cam lobes if they aren’t lubed. No matter the style of lifter.
A little extra rpm hurts nothing. Oil splash is a good thing.
You need to read a few other forums. Lots of info on wiped lobes on roller motors.

I am by no means knowledgeable on this, however I thought this was one reason why roller cams were preferable - Not wiping cam lobes.

[geezer#99]

It’s not just the cam lobe.
Extra rpm oils the pushrods, rockers, valve tips.
Here’s an example of one of many articles on break in procedures.

https://tech.drivenracingoil.com/rol...-break-in-too/

[The Rocknrod]

Good add for their break in oil and I appreciate that. I was planning on using break in oil as well. I checked, even at Summit they say to use higher rpm on a roller motor - https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...and-lifters%3F
That's something I never checked on before. Here is an article that pops up as a PDF but it drives home the point - https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...EnF5anev2B_AHQ
I have seen many articles however that do not suggest a higher rpm during break in on a roller cam shaft.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...ic-roller-cam/

[geezer#99]

Good stuff.
We’ve all been trained that higher rpm is needed to break in the cam but we didn’t consider all the other components that needed proper lube volumes too.
Something to think about.

[msg]

Thanks for the links! ive been looking them over and I guess Im a sucker for the sponsored info there but Driven seems to be a good choice.

Some details from that pdf link that I plan to follow...

"The least amount of recorded break-in
wear occurred when the engine was ran at 2800 rpm for ten
minutes, allowed to cool, and ran again for another ten minutes.
This is now recommended for all camshafts - bushing and needle
bearing lifters, or flat tappets. "

"Today’s hydraulic roller lifters respond best to 10W-40 oil.
Many noisy lifter complaints are
actually from using the wrong viscosity. A thicker, higher
viscosity oil like 20W-50 will not flow enough oil into the lifter
and too little viscosity, like a 5W-30, will allow the lifters to
“bleed down” easily. While there is a common misconception
that performance engines need a 20W-50, results show 10W-40
provides the correct viscosity for hydraulic lifters."

"Use a finer micron filter during break-in"

[garyd1961]

Originally Posted by msg

Thanks for the links! ive been looking them over and I guess Im a sucker for the sponsored info there but Driven seems to be a good choice.

Some details from that pdf link that I plan to follow...

"The least amount of recorded break-in
wear occurred when the engine was ran at 2800 rpm for ten
minutes, allowed to cool, and ran again for another ten minutes.
This is now recommended for all camshafts - bushing and needle
bearing lifters, or flat tappets. "

"Today’s hydraulic roller lifters respond best to 10W-40 oil.
Many noisy lifter complaints are
actually from using the wrong viscosity. A thicker, higher
viscosity oil like 20W-50 will not flow enough oil into the lifter
and too little viscosity, like a 5W-30, will allow the lifters to
“bleed down” easily. While there is a common misconception
that performance engines need a 20W-50, results show 10W-40
provides the correct viscosity for hydraulic lifters."

"Use a finer micron filter during break-in"

These motors ran 5w30 from the factory. 10w30 was an option but the dealerships all used 5w30 for oilchanges. I broke mine in with 5w30 and have been running 10w30 every since.

[toolboxchev]

If you really want to know too much about motor oil read this:

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/


Or you could just use Mobil One.

[msg]

That is an amazing amount of info in his blog. I would have to dedicate a day or so to read it all though. Not sure why the letter "y" is missing in that blog on my display.

He does have a large group of followers. The Q and A section showed this one that relates to the Vortec

Q:

Hi 540RAT,

Just about to fire up a rebuilt 330hp Vortec 350 (roller motor) in my Camaro for the first time and was wondering if you could recommend your top 3 engine oils?

Keep in mind that I live in Australia and some oils may not be available here, anyway I hope you are well and look forward to hearing from you.

Thanks


A:

You can look at my Wear Protection Ranking List and select from the top ranked oils yourself. That’s why I created the Ranking List. So that my readers can make their own decision.

But personally, I favor 5W30 Amsoil Signature Series oil, and 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability oil. These top ranked oils can be used for first fire, and for going forward after that.

There is absolutely no need for so-called Break-in oil. That is only a Myth, from people who do not know what they are talking about. And those oils labeled as Break-in oils, are very poor performers that can actually damage your engine.

[geezer#99]

That’s one man’s opinion!
You should ask Bob.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[msg]

Thanks Geezer, I searched and found this in the forum on that site.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...vortec.230724/

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

From what i have gathered after reading this post. Is that even though the cam really does not need to be broken in. You still need to seat the rings.

One of the reasons for the elevated rpm 2000-2500. Is that you need to have sufficient oil flow over the cam which is all that lubricates the lobes/lifters from drain back from the valley. Which is why now some flat tappets now have holes drilled in them to feed oil to the weakest link. Does it work? I don't know.

If any of you are into 5.7 Hemi's. The lack of oil over the cam is blamed for the Hemi lifter tick. I had a block in my garage for a kids truck mocking up accessories. He is getting a tighter lsa cam for power, and more conducive to a carb swap.

Either way I would run the engine for 30 minutes, and change the oil, and then run it for 500 miles, and change again. I liked to do a day trip to Lone Pine for the night to do it myself. Since a engine builder once told me the faster the better. Or atleast do circles on the freeway for a few hours.

Is break in oil needed? Probably not, but it won't hurt anything. Just run the ideal oil for the combo you put together.

[Tom]

I prefer to just add the stuff to normal oil vs buying "break in oil".

Some good info in this thread and things I didn't really consider before.

[msg]

I called the GM Performance line again to ask which filter would be a fit and he said search for 1997 C1500 and I did and found this. 61 micron filtering is the highest Ive seen so far.

https://www.summitracing.com/ga/part...97/model/c1500

[Tom]

Just get normal WIX filters and be done with it. This is just a normal small block chevy.

[msg]

I might get 1 of each and start with the racing one that has 61 vs 21 micron filtering since the first start has more metal grinding and all.

[sweetk30]

21060 or 21061 on my engines . its the same filter just 5-7 psi pop off valve inside difference .

get the wix version for good bang for the buck or napa gold .

[msg]

Is that a NAPA filter you use? This one?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSW2...cleAddPDP=true

The valve releases some pressure?