Did i screw up my cam break in? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

68basket · 02-04-2015, 09:51 PM

SO i refreshed my 283 with all new gaskets, valve springs, timing set, cam and lifters. I used valvoline 20-50 oil that says it has enough zinc for flat lifter engines., I ran in for 20 min at 2000 rpm then drained oil. Engine sounds perfect. added new oil and filter, then noticed i left the small bottle of cam break in lube on the shelf! Do i need to add the bottle and re do my 20 min break in? or should i be ok to just run it as it is? Note this is not an engine rebuild. Just all new seals, head gaskets, valve seals and springs, timing set and cam and lifters.

Ziegelsteinfaust · 02-04-2015, 10:15 PM

Did you use vr1 oil?

cableguy0 · 02-04-2015, 10:31 PM

You cant just redo break in. Put the additive in now and hope for the best. You will know in about 500 miles if there is going to be an issue.

68basket · 02-04-2015, 10:34 PM

Yes I used vr1 valvoline.
I understand I can't go back and redo a break in. The oil currently in it is vr1 20-50 with high zinc. Should I still add the break in additive? Then run high rpm and drain Out again? Or run it 500 miles and drain?

**truckdude239** · 02-04-2015, 10:52 PM

Just go with it add the zinc additive and see what happens

**MikeB** · 02-04-2015, 10:54 PM

What are the cam and valve spring specs? And did you coat the lobes and lifter faces with cam lube?

ZDDP level is higher in VR-1 than in most oils at the auto parts store, but it's nowhere close to what we had up until the 1990s. Of course, there are lots of $9.00/qt specialty oils with high levels of ZDDP, such as Joe Gibbs Driven, Brad Penn, etc.

If I ever install another flat tappet cam, I will most certainly use Driven BR30 break-in oil for the first 400 miles. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/b...ak-in-oilhtml/

shortbed70 · 02-04-2015, 10:57 PM

If your valve lash stays tight and it doesn't make any noise you might be ok...

octanejunkie · 02-05-2015, 12:02 AM

You can't undo it so just run it and enjoy it.
If it fails in the near future you'll know why, but I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

HemiChallenger71 · 02-05-2015, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

You can't undo it so just run it and enjoy it.
If it fails in the near future you'll know why, but I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

x2

68basket · 02-05-2015, 08:36 AM

Thanks guys! I did coat the lobes and the bottom of the lifters with the lube provided by the cam. I went ahead and added the break in lube. I will drive the car to the exhaust shop and do the alignment then drain it all out.

**MikeB** · 02-05-2015, 09:55 AM

If it's a fairly mild cam with single valve springs, I'd bet dollars to donuts that you'll be OK. It's the higher lift cams and >300# spring pressure that can have problems.

For example, I think you'd have to make a few assembly mistakes to see the failure of a 204/214 cam with 100#/250# spring pressure, even using nothing but regular old 10W-30 oil.

68basket · 02-05-2015, 10:04 AM

This is my cam and springs
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1102

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-174001

**MikeB** · 02-05-2015, 10:18 AM

I don't see a number for seat pressure @ 1.700" installed height, but I'll guess it's 90-110#. At 357 lbs/in rate, that means your open pressure at .444" valve lift is only 250 - 270#. Summit can probably give you the seat pressure at 1.700" installed height.

burnin oil · 02-11-2015, 08:13 AM

I bet you are fine. I will reopen this cam of worms by saying that I use diesel oil in my motors. I have broken in several solid cams with just the oil and the lube that came with the cam in the last few years. Alls well. I have another solid cam waiting to slide in the motor. It will be broken in with Delvac and a bottle of zddp this time around. My oil may not be as good as Brad Penn but is definatly cheaper and has done the trick. I see a lot of idle time also. A totally agree that newer oil is not nearly as good as the old stuff but I do not believe it is the end of the world either. There are a lot of older motors still chugging out there with owners that never get on the forums. I view it like all the lead addidtives that people used when unleaded fuel came out. Sure there is probably a benefiet but what is the cost to actual need.

Eddie H. · 02-11-2015, 05:09 PM

I don't think you have anything to worry about. I have built numerous engines over the past 40 years without any problems, and never used anything except the assembly lube that I put on the cam lobes initially. If you were running a very radical cam with high spring pressures, then you might have a problem. Just change the break in oil in a few miles and if you don't see a lot of glitter in it, you're good to go.

02-04-2015, 09:51 PM	#1
68basket Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 480	Did i screw up my cam break in? SO i refreshed my 283 with all new gaskets, valve springs, timing set, cam and lifters. I used valvoline 20-50 oil that says it has enough zinc for flat lifter engines., I ran in for 20 min at 2000 rpm then drained oil. Engine sounds perfect. added new oil and filter, then noticed i left the small bottle of cam break in lube on the shelf! Do i need to add the bottle and re do my 20 min break in? or should i be ok to just run it as it is? Note this is not an engine rebuild. Just all new seals, head gaskets, valve seals and springs, timing set and cam and lifters.

02-04-2015, 10:15 PM	#2
Ziegelsteinfaust Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Temple City Posts: 3,565	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? Did you use vr1 oil?

02-04-2015, 10:31 PM	#3
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? You cant just redo break in. Put the additive in now and hope for the best. You will know in about 500 miles if there is going to be an issue. __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

02-04-2015, 10:34 PM	#4
68basket Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 480	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? Yes I used vr1 valvoline. I understand I can't go back and redo a break in. The oil currently in it is vr1 20-50 with high zinc. Should I still add the break in additive? Then run high rpm and drain Out again? Or run it 500 miles and drain?

02-04-2015, 10:52 PM	#5
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,217	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? Just go with it add the zinc additive and see what happens __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

02-04-2015, 10:54 PM	#6
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,432	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? What are the cam and valve spring specs? And did you coat the lobes and lifter faces with cam lube? ZDDP level is higher in VR-1 than in most oils at the auto parts store, but it's nowhere close to what we had up until the 1990s. Of course, there are lots of $9.00/qt specialty oils with high levels of ZDDP, such as Joe Gibbs Driven, Brad Penn, etc. If I ever install another flat tappet cam, I will most certainly use Driven BR30 break-in oil for the first 400 miles. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/b...ak-in-oilhtml/ __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 02-04-2015 at 11:02 PM.

02-04-2015, 10:57 PM	#7
shortbed70 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Forney TX Posts: 4,512	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? If your valve lash stays tight and it doesn't make any noise you might be ok... __________________ Troy 1965 Chevy Bagged,361 sbc,voodoo cam,1.5 full roller rockers,patriot 185cc vortec heads 2.02-1.60,vortec weiand polished intake,demon carb my truckhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332884 Big Red Dog build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=572274

02-05-2015, 12:02 AM	#8
octanejunkie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Santa Monica Posts: 264	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? You can't undo it so just run it and enjoy it. If it fails in the near future you'll know why, but I wouldn't lose sleep over it. __________________ Déjà vu. It's that feeling you get when you hit your thumb with the hammer a second time '59 Chevy 3100 Stepside

02-05-2015, 08:36 AM	#10
68basket Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 480	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? Thanks guys! I did coat the lobes and the bottom of the lifters with the lube provided by the cam. I went ahead and added the break in lube. I will drive the car to the exhaust shop and do the alignment then drain it all out.

02-05-2015, 09:55 AM	#11
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,432	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? If it's a fairly mild cam with single valve springs, I'd bet dollars to donuts that you'll be OK. It's the higher lift cams and >300# spring pressure that can have problems. For example, I think you'd have to make a few assembly mistakes to see the failure of a 204/214 cam with 100#/250# spring pressure, even using nothing but regular old 10W-30 oil. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

02-05-2015, 10:04 AM	#12
68basket Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 480	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? This is my cam and springs http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1102 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-174001

02-05-2015, 10:18 AM	#13
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,432	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? I don't see a number for seat pressure @ 1.700" installed height, but I'll guess it's 90-110#. At 357 lbs/in rate, that means your open pressure at .444" valve lift is only 250 - 270#. Summit can probably give you the seat pressure at 1.700" installed height. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

02-11-2015, 08:13 AM	#14
burnin oil Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Eastern TN Posts: 1,921	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? I bet you are fine. I will reopen this cam of worms by saying that I use diesel oil in my motors. I have broken in several solid cams with just the oil and the lube that came with the cam in the last few years. Alls well. I have another solid cam waiting to slide in the motor. It will be broken in with Delvac and a bottle of zddp this time around. My oil may not be as good as Brad Penn but is definatly cheaper and has done the trick. I see a lot of idle time also. A totally agree that newer oil is not nearly as good as the old stuff but I do not believe it is the end of the world either. There are a lot of older motors still chugging out there with owners that never get on the forums. I view it like all the lead addidtives that people used when unleaded fuel came out. Sure there is probably a benefiet but what is the cost to actual need. Last edited by burnin oil; 02-11-2015 at 08:19 AM.

02-11-2015, 05:09 PM	#15
Eddie H. Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Paradise TX USA Posts: 1,200	Re: Did i screw up my cam break in? I don't think you have anything to worry about. I have built numerous engines over the past 40 years without any problems, and never used anything except the assembly lube that I put on the cam lobes initially. If you were running a very radical cam with high spring pressures, then you might have a problem. Just change the break in oil in a few miles and if you don't see a lot of glitter in it, you're good to go. __________________ "Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution"



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