Windshield gasket blues: Precision supplies Steele and possibly Soff Seal

[cedorris]

Originally Posted by Classic Heartbeat

We have done them with or without moldings, 67-70 or 71-72s.

What is the difference in the trim and the seals for 67-70 vs 71-72?

[Precision Parts]

Originally Posted by cedorris

What is the difference in the trim and the seals for 67-70 vs 71-72?

The 67-70 trim resembles the combination of the capital letters T & J and was referred to as deep centered trim. The 70-71 doesn't have the bottom section with the tail and was referred to as shallow offset trim.

Hope that makes sense.

Derek

[cedorris]

Originally Posted by Precision Parts

The 67-70 trim resembles the combination of the capital letters T & J and was referred to as deep centered trim. The 70-71 doesn't have the bottom section with the tail and was referred to as shallow offset trim.

Hope that makes sense.

Derek

That helps! Which version is easier to install? I have a set of trim from each.
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[leddzepp]

The 67-70 trim seats in the seal deeper making it less prone to popping out than the 71-72 trim.

I just ordered a set of seals for my truck from Derek, and they got here in 4 days....with free shipping!

[SEA-HAWKS]

I have had nothing but issues with my 71 all relating to a water leak. This is a new truck to me that I spent a pretty penny on. It's my third 67-72 but is much further along the restoration process than any of the others but still not perfect, yet. So tomorrow she is going back in to the glass shop for a third time. I've taken the truck to body shops, three of them now. A specialty leak shop 150 miles away where I was completely ripped off. The good ol boy at this last body shop though showed me that it was my glass for sure that was leaking with nothing more than some soapy water and an air compressor. Good news I get to finally put my truck back together. My cowl has been in my living room for a few months now. The interior has been tore out now for at least a month. I've spent like a thousand dollars addressing just this issue. Hoping and praying everything goes well though tommorow. The glass is fine, gasket apparently not so much. I ordered the gasket from LMC and yes it has the trim piece. The water seems to be entering from the bottom left corner where the trim is.
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[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by SEA-HAWKS

I have had nothing but issues with my 71 all relating to a water leak. This is a new truck to me that I spent a pretty penny on. It's my third 67-72 but is much further along the restoration process than any of the others but still not perfect, yet. So tomorrow she is going back in to the glass shop for a third time. I've taken the truck to body shops, three of them now. A specialty leak shop 150 miles away where I was completely ripped off. The good ol boy at this last body shop though showed me that it was my glass for sure that was leaking with nothing more than some soapy water and an air compressor. Good news I get to finally put my truck back together. My cowl has been in my living room for a few months now. The interior has been tore out now for at least a month. I've spent like a thousand dollars addressing just this issue. Hoping and praying everything goes well though tommorow. The glass is fine, gasket apparently not so much. I ordered the gasket from LMC and yes it has the trim piece. The water seems to be entering from the bottom left corner where the trim is.
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Try adding some bedding compound during the install: http://www.3m.com/product/informatio...-Compound.html

[midniteblues]

I recently got a complete cab rubber kit from precision for the price i hope its as good as I hear it is. lucky me i have a plain jane with no windsheild trim

[Precision Parts]

Originally Posted by SEA-HAWKS

I have had nothing but issues with my 71 all relating to a water leak. This is a new truck to me that I spent a pretty penny on. It's my third 67-72 but is much further along the restoration process than any of the others but still not perfect, yet. So tomorrow she is going back in to the glass shop for a third time. I've taken the truck to body shops, three of them now. A specialty leak shop 150 miles away where I was completely ripped off. The good ol boy at this last body shop though showed me that it was my glass for sure that was leaking with nothing more than some soapy water and an air compressor. Good news I get to finally put my truck back together. My cowl has been in my living room for a few months now. The interior has been tore out now for at least a month. I've spent like a thousand dollars addressing just this issue. Hoping and praying everything goes well though tommorow. The glass is fine, gasket apparently not so much. I ordered the gasket from LMC and yes it has the trim piece. The water seems to be entering from the bottom left corner where the trim is.
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Have you seen our video on this install? We made the video after reading on this forum about so many problems people were having with this install. There is a unique way of putting it in! Have your glass guy watch the video before tackling it. By the way, I see that we're neighbors! I'm in our Snohomish sales office.

1967-1972 Chevy Truck Windshield Install - YouTube

[67cheby]

Use the Precision gasket and buy a top quality glass that fits right , some of the cheap windshields are actually smaller then the factory ones and let the gasket leak

[67L30WGN]

As mentioned in my earlier post, after about 6 months of being water tight, water began to enter between the glass and the gasket along the bottom (not between the gasket and the pinch weld). For insurance, a bead of sealant was applied under that lip (between glass and seal) around the circumference after installing the glass, but it let go of the rubber after the six months. After reading all of the threads and viewing the video since my last post, there seem to be two possibilities for why my freshly installed windshield leaks and they would be the windshield or the gasket. The gasket was from Steele (purchased in 2008 and stored until used) and it installed beautifully. Both the seal and '72 trim lay absolutely perfectly flat, no puckering or stretching whatsoever. Looking at the gasket from inside the truck, while I do see a change in shape at the right place, I don't see a defined separate inner lip as shown in the video, so wonder if that tells us who made the gasket for Steele and how critical this feature is? As for the windshield itself, my glass shop used an AP Tech Lamisafe windshield. Are these known to be thinner/smaller than OEM? Answers to these two questions will help me decide if I need to start over with a new windshield, gasket, or both.

[DJ_Baar]

New to my '67 C20 and Seller told me he had trouble and yes the rubber is rolled in one corner. Other vehicles I have rebuilt could come with NO TRIM. Is this an option on these?

[toolboxchev]

Decided to bring this one back as I am in need of a leak free windshield. Considering all the options out there I have both an PGW windshield now and a Precision Gasket.

Have not decided to do it yet myself, will be needing a few tools. Or to let someone else attempt it.

Will be posting pics of the process if I decide to do it myself.

[swamp rat]

Here’s an option some may consider.

http://www.shopfesler.com/flush-moun...-10-truck-kit/

[GMCPaul]

Regarding leaking windshields section one of the factory service manual explains prior to installing the windshield in opening you should smear butyl caulking on opening before installing, then after installing weatherstrip cement should be used beneath outside lip of weatherstripping.
Prior to even starting you should do the following
1 Check for chipped edges on glass

irregularities in body opening

irregularities in rubber channel weatherstrip

remove all previous sealer from flanges and body around opening
check flange area for solder, weld high spots, or hardened spot weld sealer, remove all high spots

check windshield glass to opening by supporting glass with 6 spacers contained in GM packet J-22577 ( they provide a illustration for proper placement in book of spacers )

with windshield supported & centered in opening check relationship of glass to body opening around perimeter of glass

Check relationship of glass to opening as follows

1 inside edge to body flange
2 outer edge to parallel body metal

mark areas of body to be reformed remove glass and correct as needed

recheck glass in opening if correct proceed with install

Installation
1 Lay glass face down on protective covering
2 place weatherstrip on glass ( if trim style trim must be installed in seal 1st )
3 place string in depression of weatherstrip channel around perimeter twice tape ends of string together at inside bottom
4 place protective covering over outer cowl fenders & hood
5 smear caulking on windshield opening
6 2 men should then place windshield centered in opening laying upper windshield corners in opening first and have assistant push from outside inward while tech in cab pulls string line from under rubber channel ( reference to illustration #5 provided in manual )
7 apply weatherstrip cement beneath outside lip of weatherstrip

If you read any of the 1967-72 magazine articles about the 67-72 model series the leak problem was documented as a issue with these trucks and especially heavily documented on Blazers as a issue with new trucks.
Hope this helps some of you as most don't seem to be using caulk or cement during the process.

Paul Jr @ GMCPauls

[toolboxchev]

Well I am going for it. Looking to do a leak free install with the information you have provided GMCPaul. Do you have any pics you could post from those articles you have spoke of?

That would be a great help. Have to go get some rust mort, epoxy primer and close matching paint to prevent future problems.

Here is what I am starting with. I can tell you this, those Precision seals fit like a glove. NICE!

[GMCPaul]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

Do you have any pics you could post from those articles you have spoke of?

I've attached the 2 pages from a original GMC Factory shop manual that my son referenced this morning.
In regards to the double loop around seal with string they describe if you've ever installed one and had the string fail to pull a portion of the seal through if you only looped it once then had to resort to putty knifes and similar plastic trim tools to pull the rest of seal through then you'll definitely appreciate the double loop method as I've always seen the entire seal get seated having to pull string twice around opening thus not having to resort to putty knives or similar when only looped once and a portion fails to pull through entirely.
Paul Sr. @ GMCPauls

[QUOTE][/QUOTE]

[toolboxchev]

Thats Awesome, Thank you! I am noting the sealer and doubled rope method. Its going to get interesting to say the least.

Off to the Rust Removal and conversion/elimination process for now. I am still wondering about the use of the buytl seam sealer and which manufacture to purchase. Choices can be confusing out in the retail world.

[KevinK7]

Thanks for bringing this thread back to life ...good reference

[toolboxchev]

Well, got her done finally. Way more rust than I wanted to deal with. Used SPI epoxy, Precision gaskets and PGW glass and CL Lawrence sealing products following advise from those who know and those manufactures.

Of course the chrome trip popped out multiple times. Had to pull windshield once to get everything re-seated.

One of the keys I found was using windex in the pinch weld channel not getting any into the chrome channel. Once windex gets into the chrome channel it give it lubrication to dislocate from the gasket. The was a rubber BFH involved, that was not included in the thought process.

Very happy with all products used, esp. the SPI Epoxy. Of course my starting point had way more rust than expected.

[toolboxchev]

On a final note, A special thanks to all have posted on this thread. I would not have gotten her done without all those little details.

Manufactures and Members alike again, Thank You for your contributions! This is the best thread on windshields.