51 Chevy 1/2 ton, My S10 swap

[Atommik]

Not sure about lowering yet, I'm waiting until motor and tranny are in, and I get the box made and fitted. Still not sure on the drive shaft. I may just shorten the 2 piece that's in there. 99, what did you use in yours?

[99 to Life]

oh my driveshaft is just a stock 2 piece from a 4x4 s10, but I'm running a nv3500 so I'm not sure if that is longer or shorter than a th350 or 700r4. I was going to do a one piece but I just got soo much other stuff going on, maybe someday I'll throw one in, maybe when I do up my next engine I'll change the shaft.

[Atommik]

Motor mounts coming tomorrow. I'm hoping to find time this weekend to install the motor/trans...Doesn't look good though...too much other stuff to do!!

[skymangs]

Looking good Atommik, I was considering shortening the 2wd 2 piece shaft I have as well.

99, what config was the 4x4 driveshaft from? short cab long bed?

[skymangs]

So I did some searching on your trans stuff. Length of a 700R4 is 30 3/4"... Didn't find a length on the NV3500, but several S10 web sites are saying it's a pretty much direct swap for a 700R4, or a TH350 with a 9" tailshaft. The 9" tailshaft TH350 is 30 11/16" long. hope that helps.

[99 to Life]

4x4 extended cab two piece shaft

[Atommik]

Engine install day!!
Everything went about as expected. I will still need to pulll the motor and trans again to finish welding the motor mount brackets to the frame. Also after looking over everything one more time, I think a new oil pan gasket and trans pan gasket would be a good idea when the motor is out.

Ran into a few problems though...Power steering pump and bracket will not fit. Thought about trying to make a new bracket, but I may look for a different ps pump and bracket. Maybe something from a car would be smaller? Mine is from a 68 1/2 ton truck. It's too wide, it hits the s10 steering box/rag joint.

Clearance trouble on the right side exhaust manifold. I'll either need the "swept back" style manifold for that side or go with the s10/V8 headers.

I did need to cut out for a tranny hump in the floor, but it will be small, 2-3 inches tall.

Ran out of time and didn't get the trans cross member done...

[Atommik]

I also got a couple of cool parts.

Some really nice anodized aluminum valve covers and an Olds/Caddilac air cleaner.

The best part is the price...FREE!!

[99 to Life]

looking good, try a pump from a 73-87 chevy truck. guarantee that will fit. Love the air cleaner.

[skymangs]

Looking good Atommik, Love the Air cleaner!

I wound up going with the S10 v8 headers on my project. Have you connected the steering column and shaft to check steering shaft clearance on that Dvr side manifold?

I tried several different manifold combos... nothing worked as well as the headers did. $50 on Craigslist, well spent

[Atommik]

If my research is correct, I think the main problem with the ps steering pump is it's low location. My 327 has the "camel back" heads so that moves the alternater to the driver's side (the mount bracket bolts thru the water pump mounts) up high and the ps pump is very low (the bracket mounts next to the crank pulley). I am planning on getting (or making) a different power steering bracket to mount where the alt is, and move the alt to the passenger side.

As far as the exhaust manifolds go, my boss has manifolds from an LT1 caprice motor that are the "swept back" style and exit along the firewall. He's going to pull them off for me and bring them in. I think they will bolt right up. I've seen a couple sets of s10/v8 headers on craigslist here, $100. We'll see...

My steering shaft is temporary but looks like will clear, just barely. It might be different with the LT1 manifolds though.

What did you use for a trans crossmember? I think I can modify the s10 part.

[99 to Life]

ok, your heads explain why the PWS isn't clearing. Yeah a custom bracket sounds like a good thing to do. s-10 headers I'm using as well, you could get some u joints and kick the bottom shaft out a little, tons of picks on people doing that. But hopefully those manifolds bolt up and work out for you. As for the xmember, I made a new one, but I'm sure you could use the s-10 one and mod it. Been a while so I don't know why I didn't go that route. May have been a reason.

[gregw98]

What size front wheel spacers are ya'll going to be using?

[xpickup]

Atommik, looking good. I also like the air cleaner. I used the S10 headers on the 54 and on the 48 it has a 5.3 and they were S10 swap headers. The steering can be a pain.

Shannon

[Atommik]

gregw98,
I'll be using 2" spacers front and rear.

[1952ssr]

With my S10 build and the LT1/4L60 I used a mid 90ish buick roadmaster driveshaft it fit perfect no modifications.

[99 to Life]

never heard of that one amazing how this stuff pans out. I'm sure there are quiet a few others out there that would work too.

[BILL48]

Looks great Tom, I see now how you did your rad support, I'm working on my rear leaf conversion kit now and once thats done I can move back to the front .

[Atommik]

Well I found out the LT1 manifolds will not work. The front and rear bolts do not line up with the holes on the 327. I could have re-drilled the front hole, but not the rear. Also it looks like the passenger side would have been up against the starter. I guess I'll be checking craig's list for some headers!!

On a happier note...I got my trans crossmember built today. I decided it would be just as easy to build one than to modify the S10 part. I welded angle brackets to the frame, then built the cross member to bolt to the brackets. Much easier to get the tranny out or motor and tranny together if I can drop the crossmember out the bottom. When I pull the motor and trans to finish welding the motor mounts, I'll paint the crossmember.

Here's a few pics...(In the pic with the bracket on the frame, it's just tack welded in this pic, I welded it up after.)

[99 to Life]

nice xmember, def nice to make a dropable one.

[oldman3]

Nice job....Jim

[1952ssr]

The guys at KMJ performance sells a set of raw headers that might work for you. They are right at 100 bucks/free shipping on ebay, the passenger side fits perfect but, the drivers side will need redone for clearance and with your talents it would be a piece of cake. For the money they are some nice headers (88-95 chevy truck) 3/8 thick flange with 3" collectors. Here's a picture from Killbillet of the finished piece from another thread.

[Atommik]

Thanks for the info, I'll look into that.

[Atommik]

Finished welding in the motor mounts this morning, and while the engine was out, I replaced the oil pan gasket. I also did a quick clean up and paint of the pan too.

Also found the remains of a mouse home up around the flywheel.

I installed the first new part on the body(not counting sheet metal patches), Hood to cowl seal.

Trans cross member is now painted and motor/trans reinstalled for hopefully the last time.

[Atommik]

I was a little disapointed that the motor and trans install only lowered the frame about 3/4 of an inch. My s10 frame was originally a 4.3 liter truck so I guess the springs were set up to hold the weight. My 327 must not weigh much more than the original motor tran set-up. Unless the added weight of engine accessories and front sheet metal lower it another inch or more, it looks like I'll need some drop spindles!