rear tail light metal repair

[landarts]

Working on getting a 70 K10 ready to sell and have a few metal repair areas to address. One area was the driver's side rear tail light assembly and back bottom apron were damaged beyond repair. I have over the years purchased a few spare beds to use for parts to repair these beds when needed. The tail light pocket was smashed in and had been worked on previously before I bought the truck from me finding the areas of filler and drilled pull holes. The tail light assembly area has an angled area surrounding the lens. This area was turned in and not visually showing when the light lens was installed.

So the plan of attack was to replace this area as well as the bottom apron in one shot. After some careful measuring and using certain methods of transferring the same cut lines to a good bedside I had, I began to cut everything with a 4.5" grinder. After getting everything cut on both beds tried to put a few welding clamps that I usually use and that was not successful so I moved on to plan B. Pulled out the Cleco pins and got them ready and then thought would it be possible to hang them with some tape. It actually worked and that is the way I went to get a few tacks on the panel.

Pict 1- shows how the angled rim was all turned in and not really present
Pict 2- shows the other damage on the side, the bottom portion was smashed upward and folded inward
Pict 3- shows the part used for replacement

[landarts]

Here are a few pictures of cutting it out and tacking it on. The last picture shows it welded on and then I went over the part with an Eastwood contour sander and stripped all of the old paint. Now it is time to finish up the metal work and then start working with filler and paint.

[LNP]

Thats real nice work.

[Fbks_Cruiser]

Great job! I have a similar repair in my future. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by LNP

Thats real nice work.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Fbks_Cruiser

Great job! I have a similar repair in my future. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

No problem, thats why I post to share the knowledge.

[Fbks_Cruiser]

How do you like that contour tool? Does the metal get hot?

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Fbks_Cruiser

How do you like that contour tool? Does the metal get hot?

It works great and the metal does not heat up. I picked it up used off of Marketplace with 10 different disc for $200. It has been a staple tool in doing metal repair for me. Great tool.

[dagnabbitt]

Saving this thread, I have the same work to do. Too bad this is not sold as a patch panel.

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Nice work.

Looks like my truck. I got hit by a girl who went through a red light in March. Really wanted a new bedside but after a long fight, her insurance company refused (Progressive). My body man buddy believes he can fix it, but if it doesn't turn out good enough I may just fix it like you have.

I agree and was surprised to learn that they don't make sections. Although factory sheet metal is nice.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by C10 - C90 Bill

Nice work.

Looks like my truck. I got hit by a girl who went through a red light in March. Really wanted a new bedside but after a long fight, her insurance company refused (Progressive). My body man buddy believes he can fix it, but if it doesn't turn out good enough I may just fix it like you have.

I agree and was surprised to learn that they don't make sections. Although factory sheet metal is nice.

I agree factory sheet metal is nice that is why I have purchased a few extra beds to use for spare parts. Been saving on this bedside for about two years and it paid off. Everything lined up really well for the body lines. Was a little extra work filling all the trim holes but no big deal.

[dmjlambert]

I'd like to see continued comments and pictures as you finish the body work and paint of this panel.

[jumpsoffrock]

Originally Posted by C10 - C90 Bill

Nice work.

Looks like my truck. I got hit by a girl who went through a red light in March. Really wanted a new bedside but after a long fight, her insurance company refused (Progressive). My body man buddy believes he can fix it, but if it doesn't turn out good enough I may just fix it like you have.

I agree and was surprised to learn that they don't make sections. Although factory sheet metal is nice.

So what did her insurance settle on? What were they willing to do?

[landarts]

Here are the pictures from today. Went over all the welds and found two high spots with a metal straight edge. Knocked those down with a body hammer. Went three rounds of filler and a round of 3m glaze in a few places. Knocked everything down with some Durablocks, an air sanding board, and a DA sander. Wiped it down with grease and wax remover and shoot two coats of TEC primer.

[dmjlambert]

This is great. I have admired your work from previous projects. Could you show the filler and glaze supplies and tools you are talking about?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Nice splice.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

This is great. I have admired your work from previous projects. Could you show the filler and glaze supplies and tools you are talking about?

The first picture shows the various tools and blocks used to sand the filler. I first used the air longboard sander with 40 grit paper to knock down the filler to get it into the ballpark. Then I use the Durablocks with 80 grit all the way up to 120 to get it closer. Then finish with a DA sander to get it feathered into the existing areas. The primer in the picture is Napa brand TEC 2-n-1 primer, I use this before I actually will lay a few layers of filler primer before painting.

The second picture shows the UPOL Gold UP0745 body filler and the 3M white glaze 05095 for filling small imperfections and any small pin holes. These are the products that I use after trying several brands. These work great for me and they are affordable, not saying these are the only ones just what works for me.

[Arnulfo]

Beautiful work! Which is the “ contouring tool “ that was mentioned? Thanks

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Arnulfo

Beautiful work! Which is the “ contouring tool “ that was mentioned? Thanks

Here is a picture of it. Eastwood sells them.

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Originally Posted by jumpsoffrock

So what did her insurance settle on? What were they willing to do?

I wanted $4200, the estimated cost of a new Bedside, Tail Light, Side Light, Bumper, Bumper Brackets, etc. They gave me everything but the Bedside. I got them to bump it up a little more than their first offer and ended up with $2580. Plus they are giving me a Rental Truck.

I now have 3 options.

-Have it fixed like I'm planning on.

-If I'm not happy with it, put on another bed (I know where there is one).

-Or, my 3rd and new idea from landarts, replace the damaged area with a bed section.

Updated pictures of your repair look great by the way.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by C10 - C90 Bill

I wanted $4200, the estimated cost of a new Bedside, Tail Light, Side Light, Bumper, Bumper Brackets, etc. They gave me everything but the Bedside. I got them to bump it up a little more than their first offer and ended up with $2580. Plus they are giving me a Rental Truck.

I now have 3 options.

-Have it fixed like I'm planning on.

-If I'm not happy with it, put on another bed (I know where there is one).

-Or, my 3rd and new idea from landarts, replace the damaged area with a bed section.

Updated pictures of your repair look great by the way.

Typical of Progressive.. About 6 years ago, my wife was rear-ended by a Jeep driven by a woman (not bagging on women drivers) insured with Progressive.. My wife was sitting at a red traffic light when she was hit. The impact wasn't very hard, just enough that the grab hooks on the Jeep punched two ragged holes in the bumper cover. Progressive refused to replace the cover, instead paid to have it "patched".. Two years later, two indentions started forming in the patched area. Today, each indention is about 6 -7 inches in diameter.. At the time of the repairs, the body shop offered a lifetime warranty on the repairs.. Since then, the owner has died and the business is closed.. I talked to Progressive about it and they declined having knowledge of the incident. Needless to say, Progressive is on my sh*t list.

[LNP]

Turned out real nice great job!

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Typical of Progressive.. About 6 years ago, my wife was rear-ended by a Jeep driven by a woman (not bagging on women drivers) insured with Progressive.. My wife was sitting at a red traffic light when she was hit. The impact wasn't very hard, just enough that the grab hooks on the Jeep punched two ragged holes in the bumper cover. Progressive refused to replace the cover, instead paid to have it "patched".. Two years later, two indentions started forming in the patched area. Today, each indention is about 6 -7 inches in diameter.. At the time of the repairs, the body shop offered a lifetime warranty on the repairs.. Since then, the owner has died and the business is closed.. I talked to Progressive about it and they declined having knowledge of the incident. Needless to say, Progressive is on my sh*t list.

I'm finding out that many have the same opinion of them. Including one guy who used to work for them.

[dmjlambert]

Hi landarts, any news on painting, and pictures of your methods and materials?

[landarts]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Hi landarts, any news on painting, and pictures of your methods and materials?

That will be coming soon. Trying to get the tailgate ready over the last couple of days. Also waiting for better weather. It has been raining here a bunch over the last week or so. Humidity is too high to be spraying anything right now. Also, have a rocker to replace on the driver's side, then I will gear up for paint.

Pict 1- Tailgate getting fixed and prepped for painting. Had some flaking paint areas and on both ends the spot welds needed to be smoothed out a bit

Pict 2- The door had an area that was bent inward. I spent several attempts to pull the dent but had no luck so I cut out the damaged area and reworked the metal back into shape and used a shrinking hammer to pull the metal back into shape. Tack welded it back on and worked the rest with a thin layer of filler.

Pict 3 More of the door process

Pict 4 Door in final stages before painting

[landarts]

Here are a few more pictures of the project.

Pict 1 Here is the 70 K10 project truck before I fixed the twisted bumper

Pict 2 Factory front bumper was twisted up a little on the passenger side corner, so I decided to try and make a tool to pull the twist out of the bumper with items I had laying around the shop

Pict 3 I used an old rebar bender I had for years, a piece of thick metal for a holding tab, and a tow chain that came with one of the trucks I bought

Pict 4 Here I am working on pulling the twist out by using the leverage from the rebar bender and the chain

Pict 5 Shows the bumper pulled away from the grill and now has the space it needs to look right