S10 Swap how to

[Sim6]

Cold shot, check out post 98,99,100..........

[skymangs]

I use ez wiring 12 or 21 circuit harnesses depending on how many power accessories the build will have. Basic carb'd 350 gets a 12 circuit, start adding power seats, windows, door poppers, locks, etc y hen it needs a 21 circuit harness.

[Coldshot]

Thanks, I knew it was in there's somewhere

[4orty6and2]

Evening guys and skymangs! New guy here, been doing soooo much reading and checking out everybodies trucks.. love this site!!! First post on the forum and here is where its going to be!
Ive read every one of these posts 15 times over before I went digging in .. im a measure twice cut once guy... anyways. Im working on a 1951 AD short bed, have it finally sitting on an 89 S10 long bed chassis,, ive put a whole new front end in, quick ratio steering box, 4x4 (top of the line 04ish Envoy) rear diff with sway bar, disk and 3:73 gears(rare im told)

anyways I made your version 1 mounts and have tacked the fronts 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame , I have the back end resting on a floor jack just to double check where the rears mounts need to go.. and where I need to be is 8 1/8th from the rear of the 5/8 hole.. which is fine.. but something isn't looking right to me. I have the drivers fender someone dangling there just to get a visual.. I don't seem to be centered in the wheel well , its like the cab needs to move forward some... ut I just wanted to ask if this is looking right to you.. I have uploaded a few pics.. your help and knowledge has and is greatly appreciated!!!

[4orty6and2]

if it all looks good then ill carry on.. if there are any other measurments I can make to make sure im in the right spot please advise. Back of the cab to the front of the forward box mount anything like that?

[FamilyBowTie]

I ended up putting my mounts 3.1/8" fwd to center my wheels. It looked ok with 15" wheels at 2.1/8 but when I put 20" wheels on it looked off so I moved the mounts 1" forward. After putting the fenders/grill on I ended up cutting the front frame horns right where they should be (at the PS).

I just put the 20"s back on and you can see a pic on my build thread. Happy with the sheet metal now. Now on to lowering it and getting the driveline connected.

Hope this helps.

[FamilyBowTie]

I've been trying to find headers for my build. My motor is a 350 out of a 93 1500. I've looked at the Patriot and some others and they all seem to say they do NOT work with angled heads/plugs.

Are there another option other than switching out the heads?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by 4orty6and2

Evening guys and skymangs! New guy here, been doing soooo much reading and checking out everybodies trucks.. love this site!!! First post on the forum and here is where its going to be!
Ive read every one of these posts 15 times over before I went digging in .. im a measure twice cut once guy... anyways. Im working on a 1951 AD short bed, have it finally sitting on an 89 S10 long bed chassis,, ive put a whole new front end in, quick ratio steering box, 4x4 (top of the line 04ish Envoy) rear diff with sway bar, disk and 3:73 gears(rare im told)

anyways I made your version 1 mounts and have tacked the fronts 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame , I have the back end resting on a floor jack just to double check where the rears mounts need to go.. and where I need to be is 8 1/8th from the rear of the 5/8 hole.. which is fine.. but something isn't looking right to me. I have the drivers fender someone dangling there just to get a visual.. I don't seem to be centered in the wheel well , its like the cab needs to move forward some... ut I just wanted to ask if this is looking right to you.. I have uploaded a few pics.. your help and knowledge has and is greatly appreciated!!!

looks great to me. Now put on your 2 inch drop spindles to bring down the front end.

[tlorber]

4orty6, keep in mind that as you add weight, the upper control arms articulate slightly (I believe to the rear, but I forget ). Make sure you have accounted for that movement before final burn in.

[skymangs]

Also, bolt the grill in. It spreads the front of the fenders some, and changes how the wheel looks in the fender.

I'm not sure why your rear measurement is 8 1/8th. From the rear edge of that 5/8 hole, 10.5" should mark the forward edge of your cab stand. That measurement should allow you to use one of the exsisting body mount holes to bolt your cab to the stand.

[skymangs]

Bowtie; not sure on angled plugs. The early 90's 5.7s I've seen have all been straight plugs.

[skymangs]

Here's a tidbit that should help you LS guys.
So the radiator hose part numbers are as follows:

Upper rad hose
22248
or
22227

Lower:
21045
Lower will require a straight water neck. See below.

Straight water neck Part number 2671 from Mr. Gasket on Ebay.

[918733]

Are those part numbers for small block hoses or ls either way good info thanks

[Steveareno]

Originally Posted by 918733

Are those part numbers for small block hoses or ls either way good info thanks

LS, I think according to the first line if I read it right.

[skymangs]

Yeah, those are for LS, with the radiator upper radiatropening on the passenger side. For a small block I just use an upper hose for a 75 chevy pickup. I have numbers for good lower hoses in the shop. I'll try to post it up tomorrow.

[Cautrell05]

Thanks for putting this out there for us to refer too. A lot of great info here. My 47 is still on the trailer and I need to go check out an s-10 this week so we can get started. Thanks again.
Nick

[oossuuu754]

Chris' wife posted this on his Facebook page yesterday:

"Chris had surgery today and he did well. They did a trac and cleaned up some of his burn areas. He is doing well this evening other than a slight fever."

Chris loves working on these trucks, when he was building my truck it was hard to tell who was more excited, me or him. Chris was always the first to offer any advice to the forum members here. Pleasde help him and his family via the GoFundMe campaign that I set up to help Chris (AKA SKYMANGS, Ole Sarge) and his family with any medical expenses. Here is the link to the campaign

http://www.gofundme.com/c49h5mjx8

[oossuuu754]

Thank you to all who have donated! As you can see we cracked the $2000 mark and we are now almost halfway to the $5000 goal. Please keep spreading the word so we can help Chris out, donations can be made here or clinking the link in my signature. Additionally if you would please insert the Chris' link into your signature so it will show up on all the threads you reply on.

Chris has been in ICU almost a month now, here is the latest update from his wife.

By Jennifer Klapp — Aug 3, 2015 3:34pm

Chris is doing well, not much has really changed. He is off the ventilator during the day, night they put him on because of his sleep apnea. He is aware of the comings and goings in his room and will slightly respond to questions, by shrugs or shaking of head, or blinking. He is moving a little bit, I am sure his legs and arms feel as though they weigh a ton. He is still on dialysis, but is putting out urine, so they are slowly kicking back on. They are worried that he may have pneumonia again, but they watching. He is slowly getting to the point to were he will be able to have visitors, just need to get him out of ICU portion of the burn center.

[oossuuu754]

Here is an update on Chris from his wife:


By Jennifer Klapp — Aug 15, 2015 9:10pm


Chris is doing well this week. His dialysis catheter was removed on Wednesday. He has still had a slight fever, but keeping down the upper 90's to 101. He tracks you with his eyes and tries to talk to you, but gets very frustrated when you can't figure out what he is trying to tell you. But the doctors are happy with his progress. The burns are healing well and the two places that they will have to do some reconstruction on they have vacuum packed right now. This procedure will cause the body to send extra blood to those areas to help stimulate growth on it is own. Next week he should be getting a feeding tube placed in the gut and removed from his nose.

[wibas]

This a great post full of information. I'm doing a similar swap on a 1952 GMC. I have redone some things after I thought they were done. I have relocated the S10 steering column but now I think the brake pedal is too high and too far away from floor board. I looking for some advice on how to solve this.

[Sim6]

Look at post #45. That should help some. Using the s10 pedal Assy. It does sit a little high.

Originally Posted by wibas

This a great post full of information. I'm doing a similar swap on a 1952 GMC. I have redone some things after I thought they were done. I have relocated the S10 steering column but now I think the brake pedal is too high and too far away from floor board. I looking for some advice on how to solve this.

[wibas]

Hey Sim6 that's a good looking truck you are building. You and I are in about the same stage except I'm 3 years in and about half done. With my pedal setup I can slid my foot off the gas pedal and actually be behind the brake pedal. That does not seem safe??????????????????????

[Cautrell05]

No problem

[skymangs]

I've seen those pics before, nice looking setup. I've posted how I do front bumper brackets I believe,. I remove the rear 3 inches off the bumper brackets, then I make a 3/16" plate vertical brackets, and weld them to the bottom side of the frame. Then drill them and attach with 1/2" bolts. Straight forward, and plenty strong.

[mikec4193]

Oh my gosh...

I have to commend all you guys for all the detail you are putting forth on this thread. I have attempted two of these swaps one with 1961 Willys cab and the other with a 1954 Chevy cab...I got them both about 2/3 to 1.2 done and I bailed on them...I just could NOT gather my head around all the little details that make them all one working piece in the end...

I am doing more of a stock (1952/53 farm truck) one now as there is way less head scratching and tape measure chasing with a stock one...it is basically take off the old part bolt on the new part...lots of check writing but way more simple overall than doing these chassis swaps...way less stressful for sure...

You guys are awesome by taking us through all the little details that make these things a reality...

Thank you again for all the pictures and commentary too...

MikeC