'69K10, Build/Help

[KyFarm]

transmission coolant lines run and all wiring is complete. I want to tape it up and tuck it away SO badly, just not gonna till its running and tested completely.

Had an issue with the pwr steering pump pulley not lining up but swapped out brackets and that fixed the issue. So belts are installed and things are slowly moving forward.

Next will be trying to get radiator hoses, I think I can carry my old top hose in cause I just need one that is about 2" longer. Might need to build or get a custom one for the bottom, hopefully its not too hard to find.

ALSO, gonna go to a "hot rod" shop to get help with my valve covers because: they don't have a port that is big enough for a decent breather. Both covers are the same, center bolts with an oil fill and a 15/16" hole for a PCV valve, and I need help with some decent plug wire brackets, all the ones I see use the edge bolt locations for valve cover bolts to bolt down. I'd like to get a set of brackets and plug wires that are the proper length.

[cj847]

This link is to Tylor wires. Note sure if you want to make your own of buy one of their custom fit sets. I bought 8MM SBC under the header style for my C10 with Ram horns and they fit great. There charts list the length of each wire. Find the PN then buy from your favorite retailer.

https://www.taylorvertex.com/Product...uyersGuide.pdf

[4x41971SWB]

What headers did you use?
Thanks

[KyFarm]

Originally Posted by 4x41971SWB

What headers did you use?
Thanks

they are Sanderson CC10 158.

I can't really say how they will work yet for obvious reasons, but they seem to fit nicely. My plan is to connect the next pipe downstream from the header and run it to past the bottom of the cab. then use another bolt connection from there to mufflers and tail pipes. After (hopefully) getting the truck running for a few weeks, take the headers and first section of pipe in to a coater and get them ceramic coated.

thats my plan anyway, TBD if it works out........

[KyFarm]

Originally Posted by cj847

This link is to Tylor wires. Note sure if you want to make your own of buy one of their custom fit sets. I bought 8MM SBC under the header style for my C10 with Ram horns and they fit great. There charts list the length of each wire. Find the PN then buy from your favorite retailer.

https://www.taylorvertex.com/Product...uyersGuide.pdf

Thanks for the info. I've bought side mount brackets, vertical holders and a set of wires from taylor. should have them installed next week.

It was great help, thank-you again.

[KyFarm]

Good news bad news kinda progress this time.

Got plug wires and holders that I can be satisfied with and a lower radiator hose hooked up, so cross those off the list.

However, using my mid alternator mount the mount bracket interferes with the lower rad. hose, using a standard upper alternator position the alt. itself hits the fuel line.

I REALLY don't want to re-run the fuel line so today I'm gonna see if I can reduce the mass of the lower alt bracket to clear the lower radiator hose.

[KyFarm]

and thanks cj847, I used taylor wires and holders.

[KyFarm]

winter is here and I'm back to working on the truck.

Inching ever so slowly to test firing the motor. Yesterday's progress was this:

[LostChord]

Originally Posted by KyFarm

Ok, crank pulley on.

What was the solution for the crank pulley ?

[KyFarm]

Originally Posted by LostChord

What was the solution for the crank pulley ?

I learned that the process is to remove that crank bolt and big ass washer, install the crank pulley with the 3 bolts to the damper, then install the center bolt (or a longer one if needed) and that big ass washer on the outside of the pulley.

What I didn't ever learn was why that big thick washer is needed.

Best picture I could find was from the install

[KyFarm]

I'm just not much of a photo-journalist and I can't figure out why some pictures I take with my iPhone end up on my macBook and others don't so this thread has gotten out of date.

Anyway, much progress has been made. I moved alternator and re-ran the fuel line to make them clear each other.

I finished wiring, although not wrapped and tucked away yet.

Gauge cluster is hooked up and steering column is installed, not steering wheel yet.

I made the mistake of waiting until after the steering column was in to re-install my brake pedal but did eventually get the pedal install.

Hooked-up the battery and with the help of an actual mechanic (only help I've had) primed the oil pump, got it started and timing set. IT RUNS!!

Left that day though with agreement that something wasn't fully correct with the electric choke. I figured out (with help from this board) that my tension ring around the choke cap was backwards and my choke was loose. Its basically impossible to adjust the choke with that TPS (throttle position sensor)installed so currently its off and today I installed the tension ring properly, did some on-line research and did an initial set-up of the electric choke and started her up. It could use some fine-tuning of the choke and fast idle speed, but it will start and run.

Now I need to re-install the TPS bracket and make sure it doesn't interfere with the choke in anyway. Before I believe it wasn't letting the choke come all the way off. I'm more clear on how that works now so hoping I can get that worked out tomorrow or Monday.

When my mechanic friend was out we lifted the rear off the ground and with motor running put that sucker in gear, nothing originally but slowly added trans fluid and in gear and out of gear on the column until it finally kicked in! I haven't driven it yet so the trans hasn't had a chance to shift gears, but it definitely will go from park or neutral to drive or reverse.

Pretty soon I hope to take it out on an initial drive up and down my 1 mile farm road.

All for now, if anyone has any questions I'll answer as best as I can