Stereo install not as smooth as I had hoped - have a couple questions

[dammitmitchell]

im dont thread jacing

p.s. hey dude that stereo loos like it came out really well
it matches the interior of your truc and GREAT way to hide ALL the speaekers... good job dude..

[marc70chevy]

your system is amazing, i want your opinion on the system i am going to get. i am going to get a sony faceplate (its the cheapest one that has a seperate subwoofer tuning and an aux. hookup) its 52x4 watts. I have 2 polk audio speakers under my dash for mids and highs, they have tweeters on top of the speaker. i think they are 5 1/2 inch speakers. For the bass i am thinking about going with 2 12 inch rockford p3 shallows in an enclosed box behind my seat. They are 400 watts rms each so i was going to get a 2 channel 800 watt rms amp and put it under my seat and thats it

[Beatcoaster]

Muscle - I have had multiple stereos with 7 band eq's before and it is really nice being able to adjust the sound contours, especially at sound competitions. The 3 band "EQ" is a marketing joke as it is just bass/mid/treble controls, but it shows you the crossover point visually. If $100 isn't a big deal I would go with the 710, but for a basic nice setup, the 610 would easily work. I personally like the idea of having everything tucked away in my glove box as it looks retarded having a flash drive sticking out off the faceplate in my opinion.

Marc70 - Thanks for the compliments. I won't force my opinions of the Sony headunits upon you, but it sounds like you are on the right track - as long as it has a seperate sub out, with a internal crossover(this is crucial in my opinion)and a aux/ipod input, you should be set. Be aware that those 52x4 watt ratings are not RMS, they are peak. The 52watt rating is just marketing as it probably only truly puts out 15-20watts a channel RMS, but as long as your Polks have a high sensitivity rating(say 89 or more) that should be good for 5-1/4's. Regarding just having the Polks in your dash - I think you will be dissapointed as they will be free air and will have no "cabinet" behind them so midrange and midbass output is really quite awful. If I didn't have the 6x9's in my doors for the low vocal and midbass it would sound bad - trust me on this. I would suggest something in the doors if possible, but be forewarned that the carpet will soak up the high's any speaker will emit down there, so it is a good idea to get components for them and mount the tweeters higher. My 6x9's put out little treble as the carpet and padding soak it all up - but the db's in the dash make up for that downfall. Again, personally, I wouldn't go with 12's unless you want to impress the neighbors and that's it. 2-10"s would be plenty of bass in our small cabs and will have less decay with the smaller cones. I am not sure about those shallow mount Rockfords, but in general, shallow mount subs don't have much excursion and you will not hit the lows you may be expecting if you are used to other typical 12's...If I didn't have a gas tank behind my seat, I would go with 2 high excursion 8's(Polk MM840 or JL 8w7's) as they would have plenty of output in a larger box yet not rattle the truck apart...

Feel free to ask questions if you have them guys, I have been helping people with a/v for years..

[AceX]

Overall it looks pretty good. I would never have though of tapping into the A/C light for the dimmer. Brilliant!

Those tweets in the dash make a world of difference don't they...?

[muscletrucks]

Thanks for your opionion. I will gt the 710.

[marc70chevy]

my little brother has one p3 shallow and it sounds surprisingly good. where i live everyone puts systems in their cars and only worry about bass. some of that has rubbed off on me lol. i want people to hear me a while away that is why i'm going with the 2 12's. also my truck doesn't have carpet so i don't have to worry about it soaking up the highs. I thought about getting 2 6x9's to put behind the seat in the corners. that is what i did in my old truck with an 8 inch sub in the middle, it sounded pretty good because they had their tweeters too. i might do that and the 2 polk audio 5 1/4 speakers as well but i am going to see how just the polk audios sound first. i am almost done with the gas tank swap, so after that i'm putting the system in

[dredus]

just installed a stereo and the power to it is fine. The sound is all clear, however when i start the truck over the radio and or cd player begins to surge like if its skipping? whats my deal. checked the ground its fine. tied dirrectly in to the battery.

[Brett09]

Originally Posted by Beatcoaster

For some odd reason the Kenwood's yellow wire is the constant hot and goes to the battery not the red(every other stereo I have installed the yellow wire was the switched power lead)...that was creating the issue. I ran the yellow directly to the battery and got the switched power from the 20amp tab next to the cig lighter on the fuse panel. Zero issues and it fired right up.

I don't want to be that guy but yellow is batt. for radios and red is switched. Its been that way for many many years. I'm not trying to do the got yeah post, just don't want someone to read that and have them backwards and be pulling there hair out trying to figure out why their presets keep resetting. Now on the other hand many alarms had red as batt. and yellow as switched. Once again no offense.

[gnstalodz]

I was thinking about

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Polk+Aud...=1218207304890

plus

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/1873866961.html

[motornut]

i wired my head unit to the batt,avoided using the ign.wires for power.used small/low power switches, one to turn on/trigger the head unit,crossover,mid and highs amps.second switch turned on the 10 inch subs.i don't know the wire colours (for kenwood)but i have used one switch for stock radios for friends,no key needed to be left in.Newer radio units turn off when the voltage drops to low ,your unit might be turning off and on again,when you start up

[TheSunDanceKid]

if any one still needs it the ignition harness coming from the key is the best to tag off of for the radio always fuse but theres usally
2red =12volts constant
pink =switched 12volts
brown =accessory 12volts
orange =accessory 12volts
yellow or purple =starter 12volts when ingaged

some of them might not be there but a pink and red should always

on an after market deck these will always be the colors inless its from mexico
red -12volt switched
yellow-12volt constant
black -ground
white -left front speaker+
white/black - left front speaker-
gray -right front speaker+
gray/black -right front speaker-
green -left rear speaker+
green/black -left rear speaker-
purple -right rear speaker+
purple/black - right rear speaker-

not needed inless you have or want them
blue - power antenna
blue/white -remote wire
orange -dimmer
orange/white -negative dimmer
if your not getting any sound or its going into protect some units cut out due to either
blown speaker grounded out speaker wire or you have to many speakers connected
jvc and pioneer and sony not all but some

[Andy4639]

Best I can remember red has always been a switch on and off for radio's, yellow is memory, black is ground. These are the basic three.
Any light bulb in the dash is operated by the head light switch so if you tap into any of them they will dim with the turn of the headlight switch. Now when you do this you have no light at all on the radio during the day until you turn on the head lights.