Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[65Pickup]

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Chevrolet-C-K...t_39120wt_1270

This link is a '69 same colors as yours, sure looks great. Good luck with the 6 refresh.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

Hey Man give Doug a call... he can cut you a cam to whatever spec you want. Roller too!
877-497-2787 Ask for Bruce, tell em Kasey sent ya... He'll hook you up!!

Thanks Malibu! I'll look into that once I get that far with the project. I've found a rebuilt 292 that I'll run for now til the 250 is built.

Originally Posted by 65Pickup

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Chevrolet-C-K...t_39120wt_1270

This link is a '69 same colors as yours, sure looks great. Good luck with the 6 refresh.

That is a beautimous truck! Thanks for posting that link!

[theastronaut]

Now I just got to make the real truck match that! Thanks so much!!
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[theastronaut]

Not much to report. I've been sick the past week so no progress other than having alot of time for planning and researching.

I've decided to cup the lower control arms to get the bags into their design height at ride height. I've noticed alot of trucks running upper plates and lower cups with larger bags like my D2600's don't have enough heigth for the bag to be properly extended at ride height. Cupping the LCA's will gain about 2.5" more bag height than using bag cups in the factory spring pocket. I've found a pair of LCA's locally so I don't have to cut up the original LCA's. This mod should gain a better riding and handling truck.

I'm also planning on tearing the frame back down to paint and detail it. The powdercoat wasn't applied thick enough in places, especially around brackets and tight areas- thin enough that its already getting a thin coat of surface rust in places. I can spot blast the thin spots, then prep and paint the frame with a few coats of low gloss black enamel. I've been very impressed with Valspar's Tractor and Impement enamel for it's durability and finish quality so I'll pick up a gallon and hardener from Tractor Supply. I know its just going to be a driver, and it should be low enough that nobody's going to be looking under it but I'm more concerned about the frame being protected properly. I'll paint the bed floor strips insted of getting them powdercoated since I haven't been real happy with the quality of work I've seen from our local powdercoater lately, including the truck frame.

It's alot more work but it'll be worth it once it's all back together.
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[theastronaut]

Here's a shot of one of the rusted areas. It's not that bad but I don't want it getting worse.

[MalibuKasey]

Oh Id be flipping out! As expensive as powdercoating is... that wouldnt fly! I used the tractor implement paint on mine.... been driving it for awhile and it holds up great! I used gloss black just because it cleans easier. and with being a driver.... thats needed!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

Oh Id be flipping out! As expensive as powdercoating is... that wouldnt fly! I used the tractor implement paint on mine.... been driving it for awhile and it holds up great! I used gloss black just because it cleans easier. and with being a driver.... thats needed!

The place that did it is actually pretty cheap. They did a VW frame (welded in floorpans= lots of surface area) and all of the suspension a few years ago for us and charged $300 bucks- and thats for blasting and powdercoating. They prep everything well enough, but just didn't get enough powder on the frame. I still shouldn't have to go back and redo it though.

I like gloss black and it is easier to clean, but scrubbing it would make spiderweb/swirlmark type scratches and that would drive me crazy. I hate fine scratches worse than deep scratches. I used to detail cars when I was in high school and swirl marks or towel marks drive me insane! I don't care they're on a hood, or trailing arm, or an air filter lid, I see them and it makes me want to polish them out so bad... satin paint helps me keep my sanity.

[likaroc13]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I like gloss black and it is easier to clean, but scrubbing it would make spiderweb/swirlmark type scratches and that would drive me crazy. I hate fine scratches worse than deep scratches. I used to detail cars when I was in high school and swirl marks or towel marks drive me insane! I don't care they're on a hood, or trailing arm, or an air filter lid, I see them and it makes me want to polish them out so bad... satin paint helps me keep my sanity.

lol, you sound just like me...i'd rather have a big gash in the paint rather than some small blemish such as scratches/swirls/chips...same with dents, i'd rather have a huge one rather than those little ones...drives me nuts too! i'm fighting the urge to paint my S-10 satin black...i had my old custom '93 C-1500 in a show quality gloss at one point...after some modifications & messing up the paint, i put it in 2-tone tinted primer...it was so much easier to maintain & much easier on my sanity as well, don't get me wrong tho, cuz i love seeing a beautiful, deep glossy paintjob

sucks about the powdercoat though...have you told them what happened, or will you just let it slide?

[theastronaut]

They do good prep work and have done quality work in the past so I'd like to be able to use them again. If I do take anything else to them I'll definitly mention that the frame didn't get good coverage and that I'd like for them to spend a little extra time making sure everything is coated well.

[68GMCCustom]

subscribed....for educational purposes!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

For the stuff you build id take that back and say hey....fix this...

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

subscribed....for educational purposes!

Hang around, you'll learn that I usually don't know what I'm doing!

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

For the stuff you build id take that back and say hey....fix this...

They'd re-do it if I asked them to, no doubt; they're stand up dudes. I'll paint it though, might even spot blast around the rivets and weld up all the rivet heads to stiffen up the frame. I'm also thinking about building some bolt in round tube crossmembers to minimize frame flex/twist. That should make the truck ride/handle better and have a more solid feel. If I paint it I can add the braces later and paint them to match and the texture/sheen will match. Gotta have matching sheen on all the chassis parts! I can also prep the frame myself, spot prime and wetsand it first to get it slick. Then seal the seams and shoot a few coats of paint.

Dang project cars! I keep getting deeper and deeper into this thing!
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[68GMCCustom]

well...what ever it is then...... it seems to be working!

[theastronaut]

I got the rear bags finished up today. At their minimum design height I'm not sure it'll sit as low as I want for the ride height so I may add two inch blocks to lower it without collapsing the bags under their design height. I definitly don't see how guys are using these bags with cups unless they want a near stock ride height.


Aired up.






Aired out. Should sit slightly lower once the weight of the bed is on the frame






More frame rust.








What's with all that mess on the floor?




Might have something to do with this?




Yep, I decided to box the frame rails. The truck won't ever get finished if I keep heaping more and more on the "to do" list! This will strengthen the frame and make it easier to mount the X member. The front will be boxed up to the steering box but I'll need to figure out a way to keep the crossmember and control arm hardware accessible.






Unfortunately after all that hard work, adding the cardboard plates didn't add as much structural rigidity as I had hoped they would. And after thinking about it more, if they ever got wet they'd lose some of their strength, so I decided I'll have to step up and get 1/8" plate cut to fit and welded in. Better not take any short cuts at this point, right?

I've been researching X member designs and found one that I like. It's got a solid tube as the center section. Round tubing is very strong against torsional twisting so this design should limit frame flex better than an open square shaped design. I'll start a separate thread on X member designs and frame bracing to get more input before I decide on a final design. Also planning on using my tubing roller to arch the main tubes of the X member for more strength.


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[McMurphy]

Since you are not going to use the cardboard, can I have it?
I will run out and get a bottle of Elmers Glue and be in business!!

[pdxhall]

I am really enjoying your build thread and I was an avid follower of your last build. Your attention to detail is amazing and as a person that is also very picky about how things are done, I appreciate that. However, I just have to kinda chuckle when I go back to the start of this build and read how it was going to be different. To quote from page 1, "I wanted to find one to build for myself. I didn't want a show truck like the '65 turned out to be; more of a solid beater that was nice enough to tinker with and drive as found." I had a feeling that this would turn out to be more than that but I'm loving it. Keep up the good work. It gives me inspiration for perfection.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Since you are not going to use the cardboard, can I have it?
I will run out and get a bottle of Elmers Glue and be in business!!

Man you wouldn't believe the PM's I've got about that cardboard, everybody's wanting it! Fortunately, you were the first to ask so they're all yours! Elmers', now why didn't I think of that?

Originally Posted by pdxhall

I am really enjoying your build thread and I was an avid follower of your last build. Your attention to detail is amazing and as a person that is also very picky about how things are done, I appreciate that. However, I just have to kinda chuckle when I go back to the start of this build and read how it was going to be different. To quote from page 1, "I wanted to find one to build for myself. I didn't want a show truck like the '65 turned out to be; more of a solid beater that was nice enough to tinker with and drive as found." I had a feeling that this would turn out to be more than that but I'm loving it. Keep up the good work. It gives me inspiration for perfection.

Thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying the builds! It's still going to be a daily driver that doesn't get pampered, and I'm still not goint to paint it. I've already had to tell myself that I'm not going to weld the frame plates on flush and grind the welds down like I did the C notches; I'm going to weld them in about a 1/4" deep so I can't get the grinder in there! Hopefully I can make decent enough weld beads so they aren't too hard on the eyes. I was hoping to find a truck that was running and driving but this one came along and was a good price for the condition it was in and the work that had already been done so I didn't want to pass it up. Trucks with bodies this nice just don't exist around here anymore! It is getting deeper than I expected but while it's torn down this far I may as well go ahead and do it right, once, and be done with it. If I didn't do it now, it would be in the back of my head as long as I own it that I should have done it while it was apart and easy to do. It takes longer that way, but once it's done it'll really be "done".

Well, atleast until I get a wild hare to do something else to it...

[pdxhall]

I think the biggest problem I have is reading in the forum. So many good ideas get stuck in my head that I'd like to do it's hard to stay on track with the original plan.

[theastronaut]

BTW, here's the topic I started on X member design and frame bracing. If you are knowledgeable about how a strong frame should be built please take a look and add some input.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=495785

Or, even if you don't have anything positive to add, go comment anyways so it stays towards the top and maybe somebody that does know their stuff will see it and share their advice.

[chad64chevy]

astronaut, you got me thinking about if i need the bag brackets or not! i got 4.5" drop in the front, i made my brackets for the rear

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

astronaut, you got me thinking about if i need the bag brackets or not! i got 4.5" drop in the front, i made my brackets for the rear

It just depends on how tall the design height of your bags are and how low you want your ride height.

The Airlift D2600 bags are pretty big so I didn't use the cups. I pumped the bags up to their minimum design height (six inches) and it looks like there's going to be roughly 3"-4" of suspension travel before the axle hits the bump stops. I've still got to lower the bumpstops so the pumpkin doesn't hit the bed floor at full drop, so that's just a rough estimate. Their maximum design height is nine inches so I can lift it up another three inches for more suspension travel if it bottoms out at six inches.

I may try clearancing the top of the pumpkin and plane down the bottom of the center boards for more clearance at full drop so I can squeeze out another 3/4"-1" more suspension travel.

[chad64chevy]

i got the same bags as you got for the rear! i made some bag plates that will bolt in, they are 2in. tall! the front of my truck has a 4.5" drop, the 3" drop rear springs i got, i think they are jeep springs! 3 people sitting on the tailgate, an the bottom of the rear wheelwell was about 6-8" off the ground! so thats one reason i'm going with the bags

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

i got the same bags as you got for the rear! i made some bag plates that will bolt in, they are 2in. tall! the front of my truck has a 4.5" drop, the 3" drop rear springs i got, i think they are jeep springs! 3 people sitting on the tailgate, an the bottom of the rear wheelwell was about 6-8" off the ground! so thats one reason i'm going with the bags

That's why I wanted bags too. I had 3" springs but didn't think they'd be up to the job if I wanted to tow or haul anything. I tried selling the springs on ebay, made sure to pack them well, and USPS tore the box up during shipping and lost the springs (he sent me pics of the remaider of the box, it was ugly) so I had to refund the guy that bought them. I haven't had good luck with 3" springs lol.

[theastronaut]

Here's my initial X member design. It's got upper and lower X bracing tied into a round tube center section. I'm going to cut out all of the original crossmembers so I can fully box the frame rails, and gotta get a trans so I can mock up the engine mounts and trans crossmember before I can start in the X member. I'll mount the cab so I can see how far down and back I can move the engine/trans for better weight distribution too. These kinds of mods don't cost much but should make a huge difference in how the truck drives and handles.

Don't make too much fun of my lack of MS Paint skills.


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[theastronaut]

Not much to report. I got the rear suspension pulled as well as the steering parts. The frame needed bracing before I pull the crossmembers out so I welded some tubing in to keep the rails in place. I got all of the top rivets out for the two inner crossmembers tonight, gotta flip the frame to get the bottom rivets out. I'm thinking about making my own trailing arm crossmember with adjustable mounting points for the T/A's to bolt up to, make it clear the driveshaft, and make room for dual exhaust. The upper shock mounts will be on a new crossmember, and the lower will get welded to the axle housing. Also planning on running a full length track bar with adjustable mounts.






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