C20 brakes fronts

[Andy4639]

I thought I had posted this but couldn't find it. I did find a thread but thanks to Photobucket the pictures are gone.
So a while back I took the Ramp truck front brakes a part. I wasn't real sure about doing it but the truck wouldn't stop so I had to. I read all I could on doing this and tore into it. They are basicly the same as our 1/2 ton drum brakes just a bigger drum assembly. It will take several posts but I have pictures to go along with the tear down and reassembly.
The first set of pictures is with the wheel off and taking the center cap off to get to the spindle nut and cotter key. That assembly is heavy sure enough so don't drop it on your foot!

[Andy4639]

These pictures show the front drum assembly off and what you see once off inside it. Mine had been done about six month before this but they never got the adjustments right on them to stop good. That's why I took it back a part to adjust and to have a warm fuzzy feeling when driving it. Plus I just wanted to know how to do it.
In the first picture you see that whole assembly that comes off as one piece it's heavy guy's and it doesn't feel good on your toes!

[Andy4639]

I ordered new rebuild kits for both sides as the wheel cylinders where leaking once I got the hubs off so I took everything a part and cleaned and rebuilt them. The shoes had already been replaced so I scuffed them up and reinstalled all that just like on a 1/2 ton so I'm not going into all that here.
The brake hose on the drum is a little different than a 1/2 ton but its easy to remove once you see it. A small screw holds it and the bleeder in place.

[Andy4639]

Now you get the fun part taking the old wheel cylinder a part and cleaning it up to reinstall new rubbers and springs. Mine had gunk all up in it. It's no wonder they didn't work.
Just for the ones who are thinking why didn't the shop do all this. I just asked them to do the brake shoes because I was worried about doing this job myself.

[Andy4639]

Clean everything good and make sure the insides of the wheel cylinders are smooth. I cleaned and lightly sanded the insides good. 50 years of gunk inside them and they cleaned up nicely. I reinstalled everything and went to the other side and performed it all over again.
I put a small dab of anti sieze on the backing plate rises so the shoes will slid better and hopefully not stick are gouge the metal.

[Andy4639]

The last steps are to install the hub assembly after greasing up the spindle and checking the bearing and regreasing them. Mine were ok so I just repacked and installed.
I took the castle nut and tightened it down to reseat the bearing onto the spindle. Then I backed it off a good bit to start spinning the hub assembly.
I then spin it until it's tight and can't spin it. Line the cotter key up and your done.
Well almost.
I put the wheel back on it bleed the system since the lines where took loose and test drove it. I had to adjust the star wheels on both sides to get a good pedal and the thing stops good now. I even went to the back and adjust them some also since I had to bleed the whole system.
Hope this helps other's I sur know I would liked to of had this info before I started.

One day soon I will do the rears of the Ramp just to see what it takes to do them!

[Stocker]

Nice write-up, Andy! Good to know that big beauty can whoa down again when you need it to.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Nice write-up, Andy! Good to know that big beauty can whoa down again when you need it to.

Yes it is. Right after the shop did the shoes I was following my daughter in the 71 going to a club gathering. We came to a red light and went to stop and had no pedal. I took action and pulled over into a turning lane to avoid hitting my 71 in the rear. When I did my daughter shot over into the lane also making me go to the side of the road. I got stopped but I knew then it needed something done.