The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 07+ Chevy and GMC Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-05-2019, 06:01 PM   #1
MASTERBrian
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Wichita
Posts: 639
Lower ball joints

Had my 2012 Yukon xl Denali awd in the shop for an oil change.

They mentioned the lower ball joints on both sides are a little loose and recommended to keep eye on then. This was at the dealership I purchased it from last year. On ther way home I stopped at another shop I use on occasion and asked what he charges to do the work. He said these newer trucks are horrible when the joints start to go bad and why soo many have wheels fall off. He also mentioned to replace they aren't typically press out any liner you have to replace the control arm as well.

When I got home I crawled under and took a look. Hard to see if pressed or not, but removing the arm doesn't look too bad. Does it really need replaced in the awd Denali? How bad of a job is it for the average shade tree guy? Ie any special tools, etc.? It appears 2 bolts to frame, the strut, remove from spindle and possibly pull the axle to gain room.

They also mentioned a wheel bearing on passenger side as well, so guessing that's the time to do the job.

I've looked and most kits do include the spindle with the ball joint. Im assuming alignment is needed after, so should I replace the uppers ar same time?
MASTERBrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2019, 01:20 AM   #2
Bob B.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,296
Re: Lower ball joints

Most of these trucks the lower ball joints press into the control arms, while the uppers are part of the upper control arm assembly and are not serviced separately. You would need a ball joint press to replace the lowers, and they are staked in so sometimes they are a bit difficult to remove. I usually remove the knuckle, bearing/hub assembly and driveshaft, and leave the lower control arm on the truck and use a ball joint press. If you are going to use a large vise to get the ball joint out you would probably have to remove the lower arm as well. An alignment is always a good idea after replacing ball joints.
__________________
1967 GMC CM-2500 Camper Cruiser, 351E V-6, NP 435 4 speed, Dana 60, and factory A/C. 2012 GMC K-3500 WT regular cab, 6.0L Vortec, 6L90.
Bob B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2019, 09:09 AM   #3
DZL1
One day.....
 
DZL1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ocala, FL.
Posts: 701
Re: Lower ball joints

I just got done doing mine but on a 96 2wd. I used a ball joint press. Your local advance auto will loan you the press if you don’t have one. I replaced upper and lower. If your going to replace the bottom, might as well do the top as well. On mine, the top are not pressed in. They’re riveted in. If you have a grinder and a air hammer, that will do the trick.

Hope this helps.
__________________
DZL1.

Bertha build thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=733306


'72 C10 short bed. Bessie (traded)
'93 C3500 CC Dually. Bertha (traded)
‘96 C1500 ECSB. Black Beauty
'89 C1500 RCSB LS swap. Black Bean
'06 Silverado CCSB Ghost (Wifes Truck)
'12 GMC Terrain V6. Titanium Bling (Wife’s Daily)
‘14 Chevrolet Cruze. Raspberry (Daughters Ride)
'99 Jeep Wrangler. Road Hog (Sons Ride)
DZL1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com