Shane's build thread

[Hart_Rod]

Nice build.
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[SHANE 73Z]

Thanks for the compliments guys. Heres some more to keep everyone lookin....

So I had a little hurtle to overcome for the shifter. I wanted something made of aluminum but everything seemed to geared towards a shorter application such as a car (some earlier pictures show the lever I ran in my Camaro). I found this setup from CV Products. It was the longest lever I could find and I liked the matching knob.

Mockup pic:



As you can see the lever pretty much ran into the console in the rear portion (2-4-R) of the pattern. Also most levers have 3/8" thru holes in them, but the stub has 8mm. So I had a friend make these pieces:



This led to the final setup:





Next was some things that actually just bolted together...

Steering wheel. Corvette reproduction. Canter emblem was a self adhesive deal found on ebay. Thanks to forum member Z10 for leading me to the wheel.



Throttle Linkage. 19.5" long 5/16" diameter swedged tube & 10-32 rod ends.



Finished plumbing master cylinders.





So I decided to mount the Holley ECU in the glovebox. This thing is rather heavy, so I knew mounting it to the original cardboard liner wasnt going to cut it. I opted for the ABS liner from Old Air Products. I mounted the ECU to the floor and cut an opening in the back for the wiring. I also decided to just permanently install the USB cable and routed it back into the box.





Next up should be the rest of the fuel system, wiring, guages and hanging the sheetmetal. Then finishing off the interior and figuring out the ebrake.

Thanks for looking,
Shane

[67cheby]

Nice work !
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[SHANE 73Z]

Thanks cheby!

I fixed the pic links I blew up yesterday. Organize photos first........then post the update.

Shane

[SHANE 73Z]

Alright guys,

It has been too long for an update, so there will be a few new posts. This round shows all of my little additions to mount items, finish of fuel lines, and some other small details.

Fuel lines to rails


Fuel lines from tank


Bracket to mount fuel filter & pressure guage


MAP sensor bracket mounted to gas pedal


Coil bracket


Here is how she sits at the end of April......




Thanks for looking,
Shane

[Rusbuilt]

Nice!!

[SHANE 73Z]

Originally Posted by Rusbuilt

Nice!!

Thanks Rus!

I should be getting some more up in the next few days....

[low&slow]

What's the specs on them master cylinders? I'm real interested in them.

[SHANE 73Z]

Originally Posted by low&slow

What's the specs on them master cylinders? I'm real interested in them.

This setup is from a company called CNC Brakes. It is a bias bar adjuster and 2 single master cylinders. It is essentially a circle track setup without the pedals. Obviously it mounts in place of a tandem manual MC.

CNC does not show the GM piece on the website, but they are extremely nice people to deal with.

Hope this helps,
Shane

[SHANE 73Z]

This update takes us from Labor Day weekend to the present.

My Dad comes into town for a visit while the weather is nice to help with whatever projects I have going. This year it happened to be the truck he started with.

I was a little late in ordering my wiring harness so we started with the front sheetmetal & power center....

Inner fenders mounted:



New battery box:



The battery is a Braille Automotive AGM. It isnt much larger than a lawn tractor battery and weighs in at a whopping 17 pounds! The inspection tag in the box said it tested at 660 CCA.

Under dash wiring - AAW Classic update kit:



Super easy to install, tons of variations for whatever you may be needing in electrics. I am also extremely pleased with my VH Coachworks headlight relay harness. I also used the newer braided split loom from Jegs. Nice to work with this stuff.

Guage cluster:

I started with a stock 69 up idiot light panel. I then designed & had a friend machine the gauge carrier out of a block of wood. This picture shows how I modified the bezel. Both pieces are shown from the back.



Here are both pieces from the front. I shaved the badges & smoothed the lip arond the gauge holes. I didnt do a particularly stellar job as this will get replaced by a more permanent solution. The lower switches are for speedo & clock. Lower right is the button for electric e-brake. Both shown from front.



I then polyurethaned the wood carrier & painted black. The bezel was painted with Rustoleum Hammered black to match the rest of the dash.

Gauges wired:



Heres the view from the drivers seat:



The gauges are New Vintage 68 series. The tach & speedo are straight out of the catalog except I had the digits done in green instead of red. The center is a clock made to match.

Interior shot:



I was going for an essentially stockish look with some billet/ custom appointments. I added the Scat seats & console. I replaced the metal door panels with 68 vinyl and included the early armrests. Door & window handles are Lokar. Headlight/wiper/doorlocks came from Ridetech. The shifter & knob are CV Products. Pedals are from Modo Innovations. Column is Flaming River with Ididit dress up.

Here she sits at present...





Hope you enjoyed,
Shane

[Don Quixote]

Subscribed, per your post on linkages. Our uses couldn't be much more different but your attention to detail is astounding. I really do like your clutch linkage for its simplicity but your brake work and your ECM work is equally impressive.

In my daydreams, my work looks like yours but if I ever finish my army time and can work with more than a stone driveway and a Craftman tookbox, this thread will probably serve as a template.

[northern 85]

Very cool truck! Great work on everything!

[SHANE 73Z]

Thanks for the compliments guys. I really love these trucks & like to help when I can.

Don,

I understand working in the gravel. I did it for ten years before I bought my house. It makes me appreciate the garage so much.

Thanks for your military service!

Shane

[Hart_Rod]

Nice build Shane.
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[Don Quixote]

These trucks were built with absolute simplicity in mind. That's why I have had mine for so many year. If you can't find it, improvise something else. If not, fab it. Either way you win!

[SHANE 73Z]

Thanks, Rob! I have been checking up on both of the killer builds you have going. Beautiful work on yours as well.

DonQ,

Even though I have some higher tech features on this build, I have still built it to be easy to work on. It is one of the things I like about this truck as opposed to the second gen Camaro it replaced.

Shane

[jjzepplin]

How wide is your clutch bell crank? Very nice work btw. Any updates?

[slowcpe]

Nice build. I love those gauges!

What's the advantage to that master cylinder? Curious as I'm planning on going with the same brake setup

[SHANE 73Z]

Wow guys, I completely missed the posts from last fall!

jj,

If you havent found a measurement for that z-bar, Ill get it for you tomorrow....lol

slowcpe,

For my purposes and the original application (my former Camaro) there were 2 distinct advantages.

The first is a much wider range of master cylinder bore sizes available. Most OE tandem range from 15/16" - 1 1/8".

The second is that you can adjust the bias through a much larger range than available by usual means (prop valve in rear system).

Most multi-piston calipers tend to have less piston area than most vintage OE parts. The bias adjustment can help cover a caliper mismatch from front to rear.

Now for the update...

[SHANE 73Z]

So the reason for a lack of documentation is two-fold.

The first is that about a year ago, I was in the process of getting the truck road worthy. I thought I had enough bugs worked out to get the inspection/alignment done.

On my way to inspection shop, I grenaded the engine. Turned out the flange on the valve covers didnt mate very well to the gasket.

The second is my employer asked me to take a field assignment, so I spent from late October to early June of this year buried in work.

I am now in the process of rebuilding the long block and of course making some changes in the process.

I originally chose the TPIS Mini Ram manifold to fit under the hood of my previous Camaro. Hood clearance is terrible on the second gens. But the Mini Ram is a pain to work on, as everything is stuffed around the distributor.

To better fit the style Im headed for on the truck, I decided to swap the manifold for a single 4 barrel arrangement.

Updates as soon as I get the refreshed mill in.

Anybody want to buy a Mini Ram?

Take care,
Shane

[SHANE 73Z]

Hey guys,

The state of Pennsyltucky blessed my truck with a shiny new inspection sticker! I was able to get a frontend alignment done as well.

The frontend specs as follows:
Camber -2.5*
Caster +11.5*
Toe = 0

The Hotchkis tech said he wouldnt be afraid to run it. I will be sure to keep an eye on front tire wear.

Now that its running I will get some current pics and video.

I also have a few more little custom touches to detail as well. I had to solve some more "problems" with home brewed solutions.

Take care,
Shane

[gdavis]

How did you run the exhaust pipes from the muffler back. I was trying to figure it out. for I want to make my own exhaust.

[SHANE 73Z]

Originally Posted by gdavis

How did you run the exhaust pipes from the muffler back. I was trying to figure it out. for I want to make my own exhaust.

g,

I am going to assume, you are asking about the exhaust behind the turbos, on either side of the driveshaft. If so, there are no tailpipes. I just have some turndowns in front of the axle.

I wanted to make sure I liked the sound before I ran tails. The truck acually has 4 mufflers. There are a pair of bullets in front of the trailing arm crossmember.

Take care,
Shane

[Hart_Rod]

Shane - truck looks great! Looks like you have the same intank Aeromotive pump that I have? How loud is it? Mine seem to be louder than it should be for one in the tank, but I have nothing to compare it to. Thanks,

Rob

[SHANE 73Z]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Shane - truck looks great! Looks like you have the same intank Aeromotive pump that I have? How loud is it? Mine seem to be louder than it should be for one in the tank, but I have nothing to compare it to. Thanks,

Rob

Thanks Rob! There will be some more pics to ogle before the weekend is out.

My tank has the A1000 pump in it. It was the only one available when I purchased. The 340 probably would be better for me. Which one do you have?

The A1000 is ridiculously loud when I turn the key on & it primes. After I fire it though I cant hear it over the exhaust. Which I consider to be middle of the road. You can hear it standing behind the truck while running. Then it is mostly a slight "whir" of the pump along with a swishing that I assume is the returning fuel.

Now a question for you. If you have an A1000 how do you power it?

Since I knew the A1000 is overkill for me at the moment, I purchased their pump controller which modulates the pump voltage according to RPM. I have yet to see someone detail setting it up. Seems that it would be difficult without half a day of dyno time....

Take care,
Shane