Shane's build thread

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by SHANE 73Z

Thanks Rob! There will be some more pics to ogle before the weekend is out.

My tank has the A1000 pump in it. It was the only one available when I purchased. The 340 probably would be better for me. Which one do you have?

The A1000 is ridiculously loud when I turn the key on & it primes. After I fire it though I cant hear it over the exhaust. Which I consider to be middle of the road. You can hear it standing behind the truck while running. Then it is mostly a slight "whir" of the pump along with a swishing that I assume is the returning fuel.

Now a question for you. If you have an A1000 how do you power it?

Since I knew the A1000 is overkill for me at the moment, I purchased their pump controller which modulates the pump voltage according to RPM. I have yet to see someone detail setting it up. Seems that it would be difficult without half a day of dyno time....

Take care,
Shane

Thanks Shane, I have the A1000 also. I had an external A1000 and it seems like the internal is louder, which doesn't seem right. What is the part number for the controller kit? I would be interested in seeing some information on it. I currently have the computer trigger a relay that is powered by the battery. That helps prevent overloading the factory body harness.

Rob

[SHANE 73Z]

Here come the updates!

As I stated a couple posts ago. I had my PA inspection done. When the mechanic put it on the lift, he said "everything is new, I cant fail anything."

Well, every nut & bolt has been apart! So we shot the breeze & snapped a few undercarriage pics. Sorry for the glare camera wasnt on auto...duh

[SHANE 73Z]

Sideview mirror. Not much to say but a couple of motorcycle mirrors from Ebay.

Made in Taiwan, die cast aluminum. Fore/aft pivot at base, up/down at stainless allen head. 4" round head.

[SHANE 73Z]

406 SBC Version 3.0! The basics have been the same since I originally put it together in 2008.

V1.0 - Was carbureted, Holley 300-36, 750 DP

V2.0 - Is the way the engine was equipped at the beginning of the truck build

For the rebuild here I swapped the Miniram for a 4150 multipoint single plane. The manifold/rails/TB are the Accel Proram items. For the rebuild, I had to replace cam/lifters/rockers/pushrods.

The only hurdles to clear with the new set up, was a return spring bracket. It also required new valve covers to clear the FPR. I also figured out, that due to the raised valve cover rails on my Brodix heads, short covers fit over the roller rockers/polylocks. I like the look of the short covers better and they are easier to work around.

Without further ado...





Here is the return spring bracket. The block is from an off the shelf bracket that I couldnt make work. Co-worker cut the 1/4" flat portion on his garage 3-axis CNC.

[SHANE 73Z]

Heres another home brewed item, fuel filler door. This is still the prototype phase.

The aluminum door is from Speedway motors. It comes with a popper with a magnet, like a medicine cabinet door.

My co-worker cut out the sleeve on his CNC, out of 1" LDPE. The flange matches the door and has a boss to hold the striker. The LDPE machined well, but just isnt rigid enough. We found distortion in several areas. It will be cut again out of black HDPE.

As you can tell, all of the screws fell in the low parts of the bed floor. That necessitated the hardware store standoffs. They will be replaced with aluminum. I also swapped the plastic aircraft cap, with a black aluminum Earls threaded cap/flange.

[SHANE 73Z]

And the sum of the parts...







The only thing better than pics.........video @ idle

[SHANE 73Z]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Thanks Shane, I have the A1000 also. I had an external A1000 and it seems like the internal is louder, which doesn't seem right. What is the part number for the controller kit? I would be interested in seeing some information on it. I currently have the computer trigger a relay that is powered by the battery. That helps prevent overloading the factory body harness.

Rob

Hey Rob,

In my video clip above, I walk to the rear of my truck and you can hear the pump running. It isnt objectionable to me. Which truck are you running this in?

I have recently noticed an exhaust drone in my completely uninsulated cab. Im wondering if the pump might be droning in side the cabin?

I found my info on the pump controller. Aeromotive PN 16306. The basic jist is twofold:

-You can adjust the base voltage to the pump at idle with a rotary pot. This should basically control your minimum pump speed at idle.

-You can also set the rpm that the pump comes to full speed. The pump curve is proportional between those 2 points.

Ive been stewing on setting it up. I have a fixed FPR @ 45psi. The idle should be easy. I intend to back it down until the pressure starts to drop.

The high side will be tough. You have to run the engine to the RPM you want to set full voltage. Im thinking of running it to 6k and then checking to make sure the pressure does not drop low 45 under load. If it does, Ill start backing it up.

Link to instructions: http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/...9/12/16306.pdf

The A1000 will feed something like 1200 horse in an N/A EFI application? Im about a third of the way there...

Hope this helps,
Shane

[dkauffman05]

Great work man ! I like that master cyl setup. How does it stop ? Do you have a part number for it ?

[dkauffman05]

I called cnc brakes and they told me the number for the gm unit. Also said they didn't sell wilwood parts. Did you buy just the bracket and add you own masters ?

[SHANE 73Z]

dk,

I had this MC setup on my Camaro before I built the truck. It didnt stop as well as I liked with the supplied .75" bore MCs that came with the CNC setup.

I installed the .70" Wilwood MCs in the Camaro and it made a marginal improvement. When I installed on the truck I just didnt bother to swap back to the CNC units.

The truck stops well. Effort is slightly heavier than a boosted setup. But I can tell you that in a panic I can lock all 4 wheels no problem.

Did I see that you are running the Wilwood D52 (larger piston size) calipers all around? If that is the case, I think you would be just fine running the .75" CNC masters that come with.

Let me know if you have more questions.
Shane

[bbcmudtruck]

Very nice build! What exactly did you do to run the Hotchkis ends in the ECE arms? You said you modified them, but I didn't see what parts you used. Could you "dumb" it down for me? Hahah You also touched on something else I was wondering about. How do you like the rear sway bar?

[SHANE 73Z]

Originally Posted by bbcmudtruck

Very nice build! What exactly did you do to run the Hotchkis ends in the ECE arms? You said you modified them, but I didn't see what parts you used. Could you "dumb" it down for me? Hahah You also touched on something else I was wondering about. How do you like the rear sway bar?

BBC,

We just removed the supplied bushing tube. It is a very stout piece, Im guessing that it was at least 3/16" wall tubing. The inside diameter was smaller than the stock bushing and Hotchkis pivot. This is why ECE includes their own bushing.

I don't know what the OD of the new tube is, but the ID matches the Hotchkis pivot.

Hope this helps,
Shane

[nuke82]

Thanks Shane those look perfect! Also I love what you've done with your truck.

Just for ****s and giggles this is how low the Hedman 69090's are on my truck.

[SHANE 73Z]

Hey all,

Jus figured I'd show you some improvements & additions since I have been enjoying my GMC.

I finally made some progress on 3 major issues.

-I had a serious driveline vibration @70 mph and up. I went through various combinations of used OEM & a new pinion yoke & 3 different u-joints, but we are finally highway friendly.

-The next was an AGR steering box that wasnt right out of the gate. I tried doing everything up to a completely factory adjustment (input & output both). I was excited as they claimed it was a 14:1 straight ratio with a firmer servo valve. It had a dead spot in the middle of about 3/4" side to side.

The solution: Redhead Steering gear 15:1 ratio. Perfect 1/4"-3/8" freeplay in the middle. Bolted on, bled, done.

-The last was ignition gremlins. I'm disappointed in my lack of attention to detail in my original assembly. It seems a combination of things added up to some dead parts.

But one of the fixes leads us to our favorite things.......pics!

New coil bracket 3/8" aluminum carved on my co-workers garage 3-axis CNC. He also built my throttle return bracket.

On my desk, with a "truck" USB drive


Installed on upper booster studs (not used with manual MC)

[SHANE 73Z]

Couple exterior items.

-Rev 2 on the gas door. The magnetic popper that came with the door wasnt strong enough to keep it closed. The original plastic bezel was made of LDPE and was a little too flexible, so it didnt machine accurately. New bezel made of HDPE with embedded magnets.





Temporary plug for filler neck, later style rubber gasket & HPDE plug.

[SHANE 73Z]

Up until this point, I had been drving without anything on the floor boards. I needed both ome sound dampening & heat insulation. I used the black Second Skin Damplifier. Then I added 3/8" jute insulation and a factory rubber mat.





I also was unsatisfied with the Scat Lowback buckets. They are rather flat and would be suitable for a cruiser, but I didnt feel like they lived up to the capabilities of the rest of the truck. Also the stock repro console and shifter just didnt work together.

So I purchased a Corbeau frame for our trucks, to mount the CR1s from my Camaro. Like the Scat frame, I had the legs shortened approx 3". This is about a low as I can go & still get to the mounting bolts.

The console is a GM option part that was meant for the second row of an 07-14 Suburban with captains chairs. Some slight modification and bolted to the seat frame. Cool also, as it is a 2 piece affair. There is a mounting plate that the top portion snaps onto. I'll get a pic to add later.

[SHANE 73Z]

My original tire & wheel package was a matter of convenience. I already had the tires, so I purchased some inexpensive wheels to get going.

I was disappointed as the 26" tall tires didnt fill the wheel wells and the big & little package just didnt work for me.

Original - 15" Blackrock 8" & 10" with 26" x 10" & 12"







New - 18" x 9" XD Addicts with 295/45-18 Nitto NT05 (28.5" tall)

[jjzepplin]

Keep up the good work. I really like what you are doing. Subtle changes that are not too over the top and a great stance. I bet the truck is a blast to drive. Do you have a security system? If not you should be getting one.

[NewType72]

Truck is lookin killer, love those side mirrors. Very clean

[SHANE 73Z]

Thanks for the kind words guys,

Gonna drive the wee out of it this week. Weather will be awesome and got its first road trip planned for the weekend. Gonna do a long weekend with my friend & his wife in his 70 Camaro.

Shane

[dec010974]

im glad I found time to read this thread. your creation is amazing.

[mechanic350]

looking great. can't wait to see what else you do. was curious if you could tell me what bilstein shocks your running.

[STAP54]

Some custom fab work you got going on...nice! I like it!