AC on a 66 later in the build questions

[msg]

Since this build is having to be phased by cost Im planning to include the Vintage Air Sure Fit after I get this thing put together and running. Might be a year or more after. But as I compile a list of parts that are important now I just wanted to know what to look out for.

For ex the fan motor, I am planning to get a new one as part of the build along with a new glove box. Both of these parts are showing options of with and without AC. Are there other parts to buy now and have installed that will keep me from having to rip apart too much and replace things when the time comes for AC?

I have bought and will be restoring the deluxe heater control assembly to install in the dash and started a thread on that. Im planning to remove the rivets and start the tapping.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=796706

Ive also bought the AC center vent from corvettejim1968 here
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=627679

I will be buying the AC Vent box from nsb29 here
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=670835

Will I be able to hook things back the way they were minus the AC and have at least vent air blowing through the new parts rig I listed? Im guessing that without the Vintage Air installed the cables wont have anything to hook up to.

[AcampoDave]

The sure fit kit comes with its own blower motor and glove box liner as well as rotary controls. VA offers an optional conversion for the deluxe controls to convert them from cables to the needed electrical circuitry that runs the servos. Mainly, I found the extras I had to buy were pulleys, belts, and a beefier radiator and fan. Also be aware that your weatherstriping, window welts, floor insulation and firewall grommets need to be tight to keep the cool in and heat out. The whole kit with the extras under the hood ran about 2 grand from start to finish. It does work pretty well, but when driving in triple digit temps I still would like it a tad cooler. Although I'm probably spoiled by modern cars.

[msg]

Thanks Dave! Ive got a few questions for you.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

The sure fit kit comes with its own blower motor and glove box liner

Does the blower motor in that kit work as the regular vent and heater blower when the AC isnt on, or do I need the regular non AC blower motor as well?

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

as well as rotary controls. VA offers an optional conversion for the deluxe controls to convert them from cables to the needed electrical circuitry that runs the servos.

Did you use the rotary dials that came with it? I was planning to connect to the deluxe heater controls that Im restoring and didnt know how tricky that might be.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Mainly, I found the extras I had to buy were pulleys, belts, and a beefier radiator and fan.

Did you buy all that from VA as well as part of the kit, or get those elsewhere?

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Also be aware that your weatherstriping, window welts, floor insulation and firewall grommets need to be tight to keep the cool in and heat out.

So far I have nothing at all in the interior but the next step in the restoration was to use some sound deadener and carpet it. I need to look into the firewall mat and jute padding for the floor under the carpet as well. I dont know if its overkill with sound deadener or not, or even if the carpet can mount very well on top of jute and sound deadener. The door weather stripping I wanted to use was that push on style that Ive read good things about on the install vs the adhesive style. I hope it seals as well. Ill be buying all new grommets so I hope the aftermarket produces tight seals.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

I still would like it a tad cooler. Although I'm probably spoiled by modern cars.

Since the the only insulation I will have is on the floor and inside the doors I am pretty sure in GA when it reaches the mid 90s I will be underwhelmed with the cool factor. The metal roof and back wall of the cab with that sun roasting it will be asking too much of an AC I would think. I was hoping though that since its a smaller area to cool than say an SUV interior Ill stay pretty cool. It will be better than without.

[nsb29]

You can get VA With it set up for deluxe controls. You will need to remove the passenger side fresh air vent and block it off. Your condenser sets in front of your radiator so it Hass to be installed first. VA recycles the air it it’s set up for outside air. everybody I have talk to tells me they will freeze you out my truck is not finished, But I’m hoping they’re right

[AcampoDave]

The sure fit kit is heat AND air all in one package and the blower handles both jobs. As previously stated it is recirculated air so using it as ventilation serves little purpose. The blower is kinda loud when you get it cranked up toward full speed, but it is reasonably effective at lower rpm. I did use the rotary dials and installed them in a factory radio delete plate. The knobs it comes with are mid 90's Toyota looking rubber ones so I purchased more period correct optional knobs from VA. You can buy pulleys from VA, but more economical options are availabe on Ebay or even at local parts suppliers who also carry the belts. My radiator came from speedcooling.com and its a direct fit. Some folks dont like 'em but many others do. My fan is a clutch driven mechanical unit from a parts store. The blades span 18 inches and the clutch is a Hayden 2747.
Push on weatherstrip is great and jute pad w/ soundeadener fits well under carpet. I also chose the "mass backed" option for the carpet which is of a thicker material. It is already jute padded in the footwell part and i carried it on to the back wall with a roll I purchased separately.

Edit: my vintage air works great in mid 90's ambient temps. It's more the 103+ days that work it pretty hard. But even as high as 108 on toward 110 its still fairly cool in the truck, but you do get the sweaty back against the seat thing going on.

[msg]

Originally Posted by nsb29

You will need to remove the passenger side fresh air vent and block it off.

Originally Posted by nsb29

Your condenser sets in front of your radiator so it Hass to be installed first.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

The sure fit kit is heat AND air all in one package and the blower handles both jobs.

These are all things I didnt realize. Im seeing now that if I finish my rebuild and keep the heater setup I have as a temporary fix for a year or two Ill have to remove the heater and hoses, put in a delete plate, remove the passenger vent assembly and put in a delete plate, and of course remove the pull knob for thrift heater and put in the new 3 slider assembly Im restoring. The radiator removal and condenser install has me wondering if I will have enough room to include the VA condenser or if I have to buy a new radiator as well. Ill include a [pic of what it looked like prior to the tear down.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

My radiator came from speedcooling.com and its a direct fit.

This may answer the above question.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Push on weatherstrip is great and jute pad w/ soundeadener fits well under carpet. I also chose the "mass backed" option for the carpet which is of a thicker material. It is already jute padded in the footwell part and i carried it on to the back wall with a roll I purchased separately.

All good to know! Ill look into the Mass Backed option too.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Edit: my vintage air works great in mid 90's ambient temps. It's more the 103+ days that work it pretty hard. But even as high as 108 on toward 110 its still fairly cool in the truck, but you do get the sweaty back against the seat thing going on.

. GA summers sometimes sees the triple digits, more commonly mid nineties and with the humidity theres nearly always been a sweaty back thing happening against the seat which I am hoping the VA will resolve.

[AcampoDave]

You will have room for the condenser. The kit comes with all the mounting hardware too. In fact I had a bit too much space between the radiator and condenser so I fashioned a filler plate out of flashing to close the gap between the two at the bootom. This forced my engine fan to draw more air through the condenser as oppose to sucking around it. The kit will also come with a block off plate for your old heater core box under the hood and a delete plate for the passenger side vent. You don't have to use the rotoray controls or you can put 'em wherever you want. I just chose the radio delete because I had it.
The old thrift air control is now an oil pressure light.

[msg]

Very slick!

[msg]

Realized I forgot to add the photo of what I had before I broke it down