Custom Front Inner Fenders for Lowering

[Cris]

You don't need to lower a C10 very far until you run into front fender interference. Anyone see these before? They're quite pricey, but the only option I know about.

https://www.delmospeed.com/product/60-66-inner-fenders/

[joe dirt]

I like these

https://www.sloshtubz.net/store/Slos...0-66-p53947052

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Cris

You don't need to lower a C10 very far until you run into front fender interference. Anyone see these before? They're quite pricey, but the only option I know about.

https://www.delmospeed.com/product/60-66-inner-fenders/

Someone needs to tell Delmo that showing a product "on the truck" is an important point. Not very good pictures. Could be a great product.

[Cris]

Dirt:

Hadn't seen those, thanks. I am guessing that either fenders require the hood hinges to be relocated?

Cris

[joe dirt]

Originally Posted by Cris

Dirt:

Hadn't seen those, thanks. I am guessing that either fenders require the hood hinges to be relocated?

Cris

Yes, you will need porterbuilt hinges

[Cris]

Yikes, that's getting expensive.

[PGSigns]

I am down 5" in the front with no issues with the inner fenders. That is with 2 1/2" spindles and 2" springs that once stuff settled in came out at 5". A 235-15 tire clears fine. If you want to put the frame on the ground you will need to do some work for sure. My 65 when aired out would set the control arms on the floor and the 215-15's would just touch the inner fenders. This is with the 73 and up lower control arms and the bushings are a bit larger than the stock stuff. So you can get a good bit lower with out the inners needing changed.
Jimmy

[Cris]

PG, thanks. Sounds like I'm dropped about the same as you, but run a slightly bigger tire at 275-55-17. The top of the tire is about 3/4" below the front wheel well opening. I just don't like the look of the tire not being covered by the wheel well. I'd like another 2" of drop, but then I'm getting within 2 to 3" of the top of the fender and inner fender. Not really enough for comfortable suspension travel. So, there is a ton of work if I drop another 2".

Not sure anyone has tried this, but you could drop the wheel well opening to get the "look" and leave the suspension alone??

[PGSigns]

Where I ran into trouble was when I did the drop I had a 255 on the front on a 8" wheel with 4" of back spacing and the tire hit the fender as the suspension traveled. So I went to the 235 on a 6" wheel to get the fender clearance I needed. Where I am at now its really drivable and I put a lot of miles on it. Hope ya get yours done and drive the wheels off it.
Jimmy

[Cris]

PGSigns:

I run a 9" wheel with 4.75" backspacing and that works well with some minor rubbing. And yes, driving the wheels of it! But looking for the next project on the truck and like to go a little lower. The first four or five inches of lowering was easy, the next two inches are going to exact a price.

[rgtrough]

Check out Selfmade Fabrication for all kinds of custom metal parts for our trucks. He test fits his parts before shipping. His inner fenders are the real thing.
www.selfmade.com or his Facebook page

[The Rocknrod]

Bad link - here's a good one: https://www.selfmadefab.com/
Good call though - they actually have pictures of what your buying on our trucks.
Not a "pig in a poke'.

[Cris]

Thanks, did not even know about those guys.

I'm still a little lost. Once the truck gets lowered, even if you leave room with modified inner fenders, if you turn the wheels all the way, the outer fenders look like they will interfere. Reference this pic:

https://www.selfmadefab.com/product/...ront-whee-tubs

When you lower past a certain point, is it all for show and you can't really turn the truck?

[rgtrough]

Originally Posted by Cris

Thanks, did not even know about those guys.

I'm still a little lost. Once the truck gets lowered, even if you leave room with modified inner fenders, if you turn the wheels all the way, the outer fenders look like they will interfere. Reference this pic:

https://www.selfmadefab.com/product/...ront-whee-tubs

When you lower past a certain point, is it all for show and you can't really turn the truck?

The trucks are bagged. You don’t drive them once they are lowered to a certain point.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by rgtrough

The trucks are bagged. You don’t drive them once they are lowered to a certain point.

Exactly. I had a yellow GMC panel that was chopped, channeled and shaved. The front bumper could literally touch the street when I parked and lowered it. People would actually get upset seeing it and say 'there's no way you can drive it like that'. Ya, it goes up too...

[Cris]

Somebody needs to make a fender that has a subtle flair that gives room for the tire during turns.

[LVPhotos]

Originally Posted by Cris

Thanks, did not even know about those guys.

I'm still a little lost. Once the truck gets lowered, even if you leave room with modified inner fenders, if you turn the wheels all the way, the outer fenders look like they will interfere. Reference this pic:

https://www.selfmadefab.com/product/...ront-whee-tubs

When you lower past a certain point, is it all for show and you can't really turn the truck?

Ride height! Just enough to clear up travel in turn.

[LVPhotos]

Trailer fender.

[SkinnyG]

LVPhotos - what's your ride height at, front hub-center to fender-edge??

[LVPhotos]

18" wheel sooooo....9"?
245/45/18 Nitto 555 and 295/45/18 rear

[SkinnyG]

I'm at 11", but looks the same as your picture, same size tire. It -will- steer at full lock, but only just. Not using PB front, though.

I also plan to use trailer fenders, but lengthened to hopefully keep road crap out of the traditional rust areas.

[SCOTI]

Ultra-low trucks can drive & turn low. But, there are limitations & additional expenses for that ability.

Narrowed track width via an aftermarket IFS crossmember & the addition of narrowed a-arms to pull the track width in makes a big difference @ the outer fender lip. Of course, one also needs to be conscious of wheel placement so that everything works together (track width; wheel back-spacing & diameter) & 'looks' right. The well chosen/calculated combos will limit potential clearance related issues.