72 C10 700R4 swap, some odd questions.

[muddpile]

Due to the fact that I blew up my "good" TH350 this summer and am now running on a very stock and very sloppy freebie unit, I've decided that once the snow flies I'll be bolting in a 700R4, the problem being I'm not sure what all that entails. Here's some information:
-72 C10 LWB
-Later model suburban 12 bolt diff w/ approx. 3.23 gears
-One-piece driveshaft
-Long-tailshaft TH350 (total length of case/tailshaft is 30")
-Late 70's van tilt with column shifter (key in dash)
-Edelbrock performer carb/intake
-Tranny cooler integral in rad

I think that's about it. There might be a FAQ on this, but I can't seem to find it, so here's a few questions:
-Are all 700's created equal? I heard once the newer ones are built better?
-What is the length and girth, and will I need other modifications? (driveshaft, tranny tunnel, crossmember, etc.)
-Does my column shift hook up the same way, and does someone sell a shift indicator with the extra "Circle D" on it?
-I understand there's some minor electronics involved, but know nothing about them?

I think that's about it, any help at all would be GREAT! Thanks!

[AusTruck]

Looking at the same type of swap, so thought I'd just share a few thing. All 700R4s are not created equal.

1. After 93, they became electronic and you need a computer so these generally aren't worth it unless you might be wanting to add EFI and/or a computer.

2. Try and get a 90-92 700R4 if possible. These had the later better pump and a lot of upgrades from GM.

3. You'll need a kit available from a lotta places like the advertisers here to lockup the converter. With a little basic rewiring in the valve body, just run a 12v wire to the trans and it'll lock up when it shifts into 4th.

4. GM used to sell a tailshaft casting, basically the same one used in Caprices and Impala SSs, that put the rear mount in a location very close to that of a TH400. You just slide your crossmember back as if you were running a TH400 and use a 350/400 rear trans mount. Camaro and Vette 700s had a different tailshaft housing that make retrofitting a lot harder.

5. When I'm going to do mine, I'll just go into the local parts store and get a rebuilt converter from a 90 or so S-10 Blazer with a 4.3 V8. Same price for the most part, but you get a little more stall speed.

All I can think of now, but if you search the website you'll probably find all you need for the install.

[Indyuke]

As I did this swap a couple years ago, I'll add to what AusTruck has already mentioned.

- The 87 and earlier 700's are known to be weak, so get at least an 89 or later if it's in stock form.
- The lockup wiring is easy to do like Aus said. Check out this website for the parts needed: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/lockup.htm Most people ignore the vacuum kickdown system.
- You'll need a Throttle Valve kit to control line pressure and shift points, such as this one: http://700r4.com/trans/tvez.shtml
- Not only will you need to move your crossmember back, but you will need to move the shift linkage bracket back a few inches to line up with the new location on the trans.

[blime81]

CPP sells the 4 speed column pointer and indicator setup you were asking about. I thinks its about $20.

[6772owner]

I would receommend that you avoid all b/s and just call Bow-Tie Overdrives, they have all the parts/knowledge/service to get you rolling. I would recommend a vacuum operated switch for the TC lock up, its just a lot easier to drive and not deal with locking/unlocking the convertor manually. Also you will need the proper bracket and TV cable system to make the trans operate properly. Lastly, from my personal experience, the integrated trans cooler is not enough to cool the trans by itself in our heavy trucks. I had just the radiator cooler and the trans would run hot in stop/go on hot days, I added an external B&M and havent had a problem since. (I use the two coolers in series now, with the B&M last inline)

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by 6772owner

I would receommend that you avoid all b/s and just call Bow-Tie Overdrives, they have all the parts/knowledge/service to get you rolling. I would recommend a vacuum operated switch for the TC lock up, its just a lot easier to drive and not deal with locking/unlocking the convertor manually. Also you will need the proper bracket and TV cable system to make the trans operate properly. Lastly, from my personal experience, the integrated trans cooler is not enough to cool the trans by itself in our heavy trucks. I had just the radiator cooler and the trans would run hot in stop/go on hot days, I added an external B&M and havent had a problem since. (I use the two coolers in series now, with the B&M last inline)

For sure run an external cooler in addition to your radiator tank but being that you're in Canada you might want to plumb it the other way.

If you use the truck at all in the cold weather you don't want that transmission fluid too cold. Here in Minnesota I run my hot fluid to the external cooler then to the tank in the radiator then back to the transmission. If you only run your truck in the heat of the summer, nevermind.

[dckdgrs]

The critical thing with this swap is proper setup of the TV cable as you can fry your 700R4 in about 15-20 minutes if it is not setup right. I would not fool around and get someone with the knowledge to get that setup properly before you start driving it around.
The rest of the conversion is faily straight forward for 2wd trucks, but you may need have your driveshaft shortened.

dckdgrs
72 K20 burb

[nicklear36]

Originally Posted by blime81

CPP sells the 4 speed column pointer and indicator setup you were asking about. I thinks its about $20.

I know that this works for the tilt column, but what about a non-tilt column?